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Discussion in 'Spyderco' started by hollowdweller, Oct 13, 2012.
Like the man said
When you're leading the way, there is no one to tell you where the pitfalls are.
I think it's awesome how Sal steps up to the plate to interact with his customers directly on forums such as this. Just one of the reasons why Spyderco still remains one of my top favourites for production folders. Cheers.
Best post yet. ^
I'd be afraid of doing that.
It's only steel, and that's the only way I know to find the failure point. It's doing well on basswood and redwood, although pine crinkled the 20° edge.
Thanks for doing this study, Jack.
It was the point of a stake like you use for marking elevations when surveying. I don't know what kind of pine it is, but I'd call it medium hard.
Well... some Pine can get pretty hard. Do you have a buffer?
Keep us posted.
Mine is whittling oak ok but I have no idea what angle I gave it. I'll try to take pics sometime soon. You can just barely see a secondary.
Well, the tip folded on a basswood cut today. 20° secondary bevel, 0.005" thick at the failure point. I'm leaving mine at 0.007" and avoiding hard wood. It cuts like crazy at that.
So, we have the solution?
We have *a* solution. It isn't the only one possible, but it is probably the cheapest available.
"A" is a good start.
I'm very curious to see what Spyderco does. This folder design has the potential to be a winner.
The tip? I really worried about that with the fact that most scand grinds are not tapered so it gives at least a bit more strength to the tip.
So what are you going to do? Grind a tip farther back?
I'm also curious. The next run needs a steeper grind. As for the current run, Spyderco could sharpen them back far enough to strengthen the edge and sell them as seconds.
A couple of strokes on a DMT extra fine at 10° per side and keep going. It was less than 1/32" from the apex. Hardly worth notice other than as a sign it was time to stop thinning it down.
I have to agree that something different needs to be done on future production, either a different grind, steel or hardness or market it as a puukko-shaped straight razor rather than calling it a knife. My personal opinion is it would be an excellent knife with a grind like the Puukko.
That's about how far mine chipped back about a 32nd. Maybe that's the point where if you don't knock the shoulders off and just put a new edge on it holds?
I don't know. I haven't had a chip on mine yet, everything has been rolling/bending.
Sounds like this thing is a wicked slicer, though it can't handle and lateral tension. I'm really interested in this now since I am always looking for a thinner ground blade. I hope someone still has some of these first generation ones left, since I want to try it out now.
Yablanowitz's comment above, combined with Sal's remark that they tested at Rc 61, and understanding they are made of s30v... just blows my mind. Anyone else remember when lots of folks claimed s30v was chippy? What has changed? These blades are rolling like much more ductile steels. Could the very thin edge have become annealed during grinding?
On a related note my first Delica was a saber ground ZDP model. Unhappy with its performance in cardboard I manually convexed it to an appleseed grind with a mirror polish. It cuts wood extremely well now, as well as cardboard, etc. I used it recently to carve a hardwood dowel to a pencil point at one end and to shave off the paint from the end grain at the other end. It is hard to estimate the angle at the apex but I'd guess about 20 degrees. 10 degrees seems to be in straight razor territory, only useful for soft work media.