Whacha Been Up To......

[Horsewright]

I needed a new shoulder bag so I've spent the last while developing this one. I saw a bag I liked and worked up a pattern using a photo of the other bag for ideas and figured out how to make it.

I used a scrap of about 10 oz. veg tan belly leather for the back and some firm chrome tan for the front and the top. All were dyed, heavily oiled and treated with a bees wax finish. All straps are water buffalo.

Very nice. I like the use of all the Sam Bowne studs.

 

[iamunique127]

I think rounded edges also last longer on a product. I've been thinking on doing a wip on finishing edges so I will here shortly.

Hi Dave

I have a question for you about edges if you have a minute.
I admire your water buffalo overlay belts. I have read in some of your posts that you use veg tanned water buffalo.

I have a side of water buffalo but all that was available locally was chrome tanned so I picked it up to try it. I am aware that a guy can't burnish chrome tan edges.
When I use my edger on the water buffalo I have it kind of scrapes the top layer off and leaves a torn sort of look to the finish which is not very nice.

I have made a practice overlay. First I split the water buffalo so it was about 5 oz. then I glued it to a 7 oz. backing of veg tan as a liner. I used the veg tan as a guide and trimmed the water buffalo to size with a rotary knife because the water buffalo is very stretchy.

I notice in many of your photos, like in the quoted photo above, you bevel the edges of your water buffalo but it doesn't seem that you burnish them.

Here is a photo of my practice overlay with squarely cut edges and beside it is a strap where I bevelled the edges. I did try burnishing the edge nearest the practice piece but it didn't work and even dying that bit didn't help with the appearance.

My question is: because of the ragged look of the bevelled edges I'm thinking of leaving the edges square on the overlay belt. Would you agree?
Thanks for any comments you may have.

 

[Horsewright]

Hi Dave

I have a question for you about edges if you have a minute.
I admire your water buffalo overlay belts. I have read in some of your posts that you use veg tanned water buffalo.

I have a side of water buffalo but all that was available locally was chrome tanned so I picked it up to try it. I am aware that a guy can't burnish chrome tan edges.
When I use my edger on the water buffalo I have it kind of scrapes the top layer off and leaves a torn sort of look to the finish which is not very nice.

I have made a practice overlay. First I split the water buffalo so it was about 5 oz. then I glued it to a 7 oz. backing of veg tan as a liner. I used the veg tan as a guide and trimmed the water buffalo to size with a rotary knife because the water buffalo is very stretchy.

I notice in many of your photos, like in the quoted photo above, you bevel the edges of your water buffalo but it doesn't seem that you burnish them.

Here is a photo of my practice overlay with squarely cut edges and beside it is a strap where I bevelled the edges. I did try burnishing the edge nearest the practice piece but it didn't work and even dying that bit didn't help with the appearance.

My question is: because of the ragged look of the bevelled edges I'm thinking of leaving the edges square on the overlay belt. Would you agree?
Thanks for any comments you may have.

Wow talk about timing! I literally was making a batch of our Buckaroo Pouches. They are made from a chrome tanned water buffalo. The pic of my straps above, yes that is veg tan water buffalo. However, any of the overlaid items we make we are using a chrome tan overlaid onto usually 8-10oz veg tan. The veg tan water buffalo like those straps above always get burnished with one exception. We have lately made the executive decision not to burnish the straps on a rifle scabbard. These are 50-60 inches long usually and burnishing them was just hard on the old guy, even with a power finisher. In fact those pics above are the first sets that I did not burnish. Everything else is and has been burnished.

These overlaid holsters are burnished.

So a pro tip on the overlaid is to use one size larger edger than normal for the water buff side. So for instance on these holsters I used a #4 on the water buff side and a #3 on the back side. This sets the water buff back some and for some reason it burnishes better. When edging a softer leather it is important that the edge be VERY sharp. That will help quite a bit with the fuzzies. So in your pic I'd like to see how your practice piece came out. So your singular strap I probably wouldn't try and edge that. If it was two layers sewn together I would. Two layers is what my Buckaroo pouches are:

I sharpened this number two before starting on the 19 pouches and touched it up about 3/4 of the way through.

I burnished these guys just a lil too>. Burnished on the left and not on the right.

I don't go crazy on trying to burnish them as you will certainly invoke the law of diminishing returns. I dampen each with water. then rub some paraffin on it and then burnish:

Really maybe only 30-45 seconds each. But it does enough to make it worth while. Just a lil thing:

But the strap on these guys or the top of the pouch? Wasting your time. The edges had been sanded prior to sewing btw and so then just edging and burnishing after sewing:

Burnished straps:

Unburnished:

One of my older personal water buffalo belts. Edges were burnished and still ain't bad even with all the life:

Hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions or if I need to clarify something.

 

[SharpBits]

It’s like a Master’s class on leather working here!

 

[Sharp & Fiery]

Dave!!

Please stop showing that power burnisher…you’re making me jealous.

Love your tutorials and it’s nice to see that some of your tricks and tips I do as well! Sometimes I even learned them from you.

Thank you on behalf of the leather benders here for taking the time to post such in depth posts.

 

[Horsewright]

It’s like a Master’s class on leather working here!

Thank you. Just helping out a bit so folks don't have some of the same struggles I did. Like to help if I can.

Dave!!

Please stop showing that power burnisher…you’re making me jealous.

Love your tutorials and it’s nice to see that some of your tricks and tips I do as well! Sometimes I even learned them from you.

Thank you on behalf of the leather benders here for taking the time to post such in depth posts.

Ya know I was thinking about that finisher the other day. I was thinking that if I guy wanted to take a step into machinery to help with his work I might recommend that first over a sewing machine. Now that's a teutonic plate shift in my thinking but I think I would. First as far as leather machines go it's inexpensive, I just checked and with the stand as we have it they are $625. So not terrible but probably more importantly ya dang near use it on everything and I mean everything. I was kicking around post on the machines that we have and what we've learned about em. Will do it someday. Thanks for the kind words and you bet!

 

[iamunique127]

Dave!!

Love your tutorials and it’s nice to see that some of your tricks and tips I do as well! Sometimes I even learned them from you.

Thank you on behalf of the leather benders here for taking the time to post such in depth posts.

I'll say. Thank you so much for the in-depth answer. I too have learned much of what I do from you.

I had the same thoughts about the burnisher, too. I have recently started using drum sanders and burnishing wheels on my dremel and they are a game changer. Seeing your sander/burnisher reminded me I've seen the attachments for sale and wonder if they will fit my bench grinder with the grinding wheels taken off.

Anyway, Dave, I'll do some work on that practice piece and see what I can come up with. Thanks again.

 

[Horsewright]

I'll say. Thank you so much for the in-depth answer. I too have learned much of what I do from you.

I had the same thoughts about the burnisher, too. I have recently started using drum sanders and burnishing wheels on my dremel and they are a game changer. Seeing your sander/burnisher reminded me I've seen the attachments for sale and wonder if they will fit my bench grinder with the grinding wheels taken off.

Anyway, Dave, I'll do some work on that practice piece and see what I can come up with. Thanks again.

Most of my buffers on the knife side of the shop are grinders with different wheels. What makes this one special is the variable speed. I've found that different leathers do respond to different speeds and this has surprised me, both on sanding and burnishing. This one has a 1/2" shaft so it shouldn't be too difficult to find something to work on your grinder. I have 1/2 sanding drums set up for my Dremel too and I use these on tight inside curves.

 

[jfk1110]

Wow talk about timing! I literally was making a batch of our Buckaroo Pouches. They are made from a chrome tanned water buffalo. The pic of my straps above, yes that is veg tan water buffalo. However, any of the overlaid items we make we are using a chrome tan overlaid onto usually 8-10oz veg tan. The veg tan water buffalo like those straps above always get burnished with one exception. We have lately made the executive decision not to burnish the straps on a rifle scabbard. These are 50-60 inches long usually and burnishing them was just hard on the old guy, even with a power finisher. In fact those pics above are the first sets that I did not burnish. Everything else is and has been burnished.

These overlaid holsters are burnished.

So a pro tip on the overlaid is to use one size larger edger than normal for the water buff side. So for instance on these holsters I used a #4 on the water buff side and a #3 on the back side. This sets the water buff back some and for some reason it burnishes better. When edging a softer leather it is important that the edge be VERY sharp. That will help quite a bit with the fuzzies. So in your pic I'd like to see how your practice piece came out. So your singular strap I probably wouldn't try and edge that. If it was two layers sewn together I would. Two layers is what my Buckaroo pouches are:

I sharpened this number two before starting on the 19 pouches and touched it up about 3/4 of the way through.

I burnished these guys just a lil too>. Burnished on the left and not on the right.

I don't go crazy on trying to burnish them as you will certainly invoke the law of diminishing returns. I dampen each with water. then rub some paraffin on it and then burnish:

Really maybe only 30-45 seconds each. But it does enough to make it worth while. Just a lil thing:

But the strap on these guys or the top of the pouch? Wasting your time. The edges had been sanded prior to sewing btw and so then just edging and burnishing after sewing:

Burnished straps:

Unburnished:

One of my older personal water buffalo belts. Edges were burnished and still ain't bad even with all the life:

Hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions or if I need to clarify something.

Lovin my buckaroo slips Dave......Just a great idea

 

[Horsewright]

Lovin my buckaroo slips Dave......Just a great idea

Thanks, yep we sell a bunch of em.

 

[iamunique127]

Hi Dave

I burnished that practice piece of water buffalo overlay according to your method and of course you were right, it burnished right up.

I edged with sharpened #4 and #3. I'm guessing the other secret is using the paraffin first. I usually burnish veg tan with water and glycerin soap, only adding the paraffin after the piece is already burnished. Your way worked right off the bat.

So I went ahead and put together a belt with split water buffalo on a 9 oz. veg tan liner. I'll get to work on finishing it in the next couple days.

Thanks again for the tips.

 

[jfk1110]

Hi Dave

I burnished that practice piece of water buffalo overlay according to your method and of course you were right, it burnished right up.

I edged with sharpened #4 and #3. I'm guessing the other secret is using the paraffin first. I usually burnish veg tan with water and glycerin soap, only adding the paraffin after the piece is already burnished. Your way worked right off the bat.

So I went ahead and put together a belt with split water buffalo on a 9 oz. veg tan liner. I'll get to work on finishing it in the next couple days.

Thanks again for the tips.

Nice job.....

 

[Horsewright]

Hi Dave

I burnished that practice piece of water buffalo overlay according to your method and of course you were right, it burnished right up.

I edged with sharpened #4 and #3. I'm guessing the other secret is using the paraffin first. I usually burnish veg tan with water and glycerin soap, only adding the paraffin after the piece is already burnished. Your way worked right off the bat.

So I went ahead and put together a belt with split water buffalo on a 9 oz. veg tan liner. I'll get to work on finishing it in the next couple days.

Thanks again for the tips.

That looks great! Glad that worked out for you! After burnishing a couple of coats of your favorite finish on the edge only not on the top. I like to lightly oil the veg tan and then a coat of finish on that too.

 

[iamunique127]

That looks great! Glad that worked out for you! After burnishing a couple of coats of your favorite finish on the edge only not on the top. I like to lightly oil the veg tan and then a coat of finish on that to

Thanks Dave. I did a couple Resolene 50/50 with water finishes after oiling the veg and letting it set overnight. Getting the water buffalo edges wet with the Resolene and water raised the grain so it was rough again. That was easily solved by another quick wax burnish.

I'm happy with how it turned out. Thanks for your advice.

About finishes: I've read frequently in your posts that you use Bag Kote and I had adopted doing that as well. For a recent veg tan belt I made for a friend I finished it with that way but the finish got all cracked when I rolled up the belt for presentation to him. I've never had that problem before. Have you ever seen that happen? I fixed it by washing off the Bag Kote with a damp rag and applying Resolene 50/50. That's why I started using that finish again.

 

[Ebbtide]

A plug bag for fishing the Long Island Sound beach.

 

[jfk1110]

A plug bag for fishing the Long Island Sound beach.

Nice job

 

[Horsewright]

Thanks Dave. I did a couple Resolene 50/50 with water finishes after oiling the veg and letting it set overnight. Getting the water buffalo edges wet with the Resolene and water raised the grain so it was rough again. That was easily solved by another quick wax burnish.

I'm happy with how it turned out. Thanks for your advice.

About finishes: I've read frequently in your posts that you use Bag Kote and I had adopted doing that as well. For a recent veg tan belt I made for a friend I finished it with that way but the finish got all cracked when I rolled up the belt for presentation to him. I've never had that problem before. Have you ever seen that happen? I fixed it by washing off the Bag Kote with a damp rag and applying Resolene 50/50. That's why I started using that finish again.

No I haven't. How are you applying the Bag Kote? I've seen finishes crack before that were applied too heavy. I use an old t shirt stretched very tightly over two fingers. One application of the Bag Kote to the t shirt by just making contact and turning the bottle over and then turning it right side back up was enough to do a whole belt edge today. That's a very attractive belt above that you've made.

 

[Horsewright]

A plug bag for fishing the Long Island Sound beach.

That is so cool my friend!!!!! You are really getting that Carlos Border stamp down.

 

[Horsewright]

Some recents form us. Made a batch of our Buckaroo Pouches:

Pair of suspenders for our friend RJ:

Nichole made two more of her Chap Leg Purses.

She also made me a pillow for where I sit on the couch to watch TV. Saddle Blanket canvas on one side and leather on the other:

 

[Ebbtide]

That is so cool my friend!!!!! You are really getting that Carlos Border stamp down.

I’m trying!!!!