What Are Some Good "Overbuilt" Knives?

Off the top of my head, a handful of "overbuilt" knives:

  • Bark River Bravo Survivor
  • Benchmade 275 Adamas
  • Benchmade 755 MPR Sibert
  • Spartan Akribis

As was mentioned earlier, a knife is a knife, not a prybar. :confused: If you want a knife for prying stuff, scrape up twenty-five bucks, get a Glock 78 Field Knife and be done with it. ;)

Tom @ KnivesShipFree
 
I don't care what any company might say, prying with a folder is asking for an abuse dismissal to a warranty claim.
 
Good suggestions, guys. Keep 'em coming!

Also, does anyone know where I can get a Swamp Rat Battle Rat? Was looking around for one of those way back & couldn't find one, but back then I didn't know about this site & how to do forum stuff.

I think the Glock knife is probably the way I'd go for a fixed blade, but I'm still curious about a folder. What specifically makes them worse for prying? Is it that the blade attaches to the handle instead of being all one piece? Is it that the handle itself is two pieces that are held together? I've seen folders with blades as thick as fixed-bladed knives, so I figure that's not necessarily it. Anything to look for in terms of reinforcements?

I know a folder isn't meant for that & it's a risky thing to do. Still, I figure it's good to be ABLE to do it on the fly if the need comes up. I'd think that the folder could even have an advantage or two, considering that it can be used in an L shape (with the handle bent) & pulled down- plus it's smaller, so you can get to spots around obstacles that you couldn't with a crowbar or a fixed blade knife.
 
I'm with those above who recommend a pocket pry tool and a lighter weight knife. That said the Strider or Hinderer would probably hold up if you got enough blade into whatever your prying on. Again not recommended, also as above a ratmandu or other swamprat kabar has this:http://www.kabar.com/knives/detail/7ual
 
I think the Glock knife is probably the way I'd go for a fixed blade, but I'm still curious about a folder. What specifically makes them worse for prying? Is it that the blade attaches to the handle instead of being all one piece? Is it that the handle itself is two pieces that are held together? I've seen folders with blades as thick as fixed-bladed knives, so I figure that's not necessarily it. Anything to look for in terms of reinforcements?

I know a folder isn't meant for that & it's a risky thing to do. Still, I figure it's good to be ABLE to do it on the fly if the need comes up. I'd think that the folder could even have an advantage or two, considering that it can be used in an L shape (with the handle bent) & pulled down- plus it's smaller, so you can get to spots around obstacles that you couldn't with a crowbar or a fixed blade knife.

The pivot is the weak point in a folder, by nature of the design. Most pivots and locks are fairly strong when force is applied in the direction that its "expecting" you to (in line with the blades movement), but are weaker in lateral strength. A fixed blade is much stronger, as there is no joint/pivot breaking it in "half". The argument is that fixed blades are "better" at prying, but in reality I think most agree that "best" is some other tool entirely, so maybe thats only a marginal win :p.

Now, lots of times knives break close to the tip when prying (because thats the "fulcrum" that you're prying from, so you have the whole rest of the length of the knife apply force right at that spot), but I would say that in general most say they wouldn't use a folder to pry because they're just not built for it, and for safety reasons.

A folder with a bigger pivot, steel liners, sturdy lock, and thicker blade steel will be a better "pryer" than a folder lacking any/some/all of those things (in general).

Personally, I'm somewhat of a heathen. If I feel the need to pry, I'm much more likely to use the screwdriver on my SAK than I am my knife. But I acknowledge that my BK2 is probably better at it than the SAK, or even most "real" screwdrivers I own. The difference is the SAK lives in my work bag, my BK2 stays at home.
 
Benchmade loco has blown my mind. Overbuilt thick bladestock, a little on the heavy side and somehow lost NO slicing/cutting geometry.


I'd really like to try one of those.:thumbup:

Here's my answer; in pictures... ;):D Many modern folders and fixed blades fit the description of "overbuilt" :thumbup:

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Busse.

Cold Steel Rajah 2.
 
For a fixed blade, you would do well to research the BK2. For the price, you cannot beat the quality.
For a folder, I have my JK Friction in 01 with TI slabs.
 
I'd really like to try one of those.:thumbup:

Here's my answer; in pictures... ;):D Many modern folders and fixed blades fit the description of "overbuilt" :thumbup:



20898999535_440e54810b_b.jpg

What is your answer in words? (at least for the Benchmade)?
 
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What is your answer in words? (at least for the Benchmade)?

It has a tough tool steel blade (CPM M4), is quite thick behind the edge so it'll withstand harder use better than a knife with a thin grind/edge angle, thick titanium handle slabs and tight lockup at approximately 40%. No bladeplay at all and is very sturdy based on my experience using it.

The custom knife below by Robert Hankins is 1/4" D2 with a short & thick hollow grind; definitely more of a pry bar than knife and it gets used (abused) without issue. :thumbup:
 
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