What are some past Busse & Kin features that you absolutely love?

What are some past Busse & Kin features that you absolutely love?

  • Rounded Spine

    Votes: 24 35.8%
  • Fuller

    Votes: 25 37.3%
  • RES-C handle

    Votes: 27 40.3%
  • Micarta handle

    Votes: 33 49.3%
  • Hollow grind

    Votes: 18 26.9%
  • Flat grind

    Votes: 33 49.3%
  • Coated finish

    Votes: 12 17.9%
  • Uncoated finish (Comp/Stonewash/DC/Satin)

    Votes: 41 61.2%

  • Total voters
    67
Here's something I really love... thinner edges... ie. thickness measured behind the edge bevel. This can be a bit mucky trying to sort out because you must compare apples to apples, meaning the edge bevels must be the same measured angles from one knife to another. Here's a couple of knives that I've just reprofiled to a measured 15 degree per side edge. The difference between the two is quite dramatic and you could argue one is heavily overbuilt.

The first is a Busse Battle Grade Urban Grudge and the second is the new Bad Rattitude. Both were unused with factory bevels when I received them, so they should be considered representative for the most part. Note the extreme difference in the width of the edge bevels between the two. The wider the bevel is the thicker the measurement will be directly behind the edge bevel where it meets the primary grind.

I don't have calipers but a difference so large hardly needs them to tell the BG UG is obscenely thick compared to the lean Bad Rattitude which carries it's thinness all the way to the tip. I would estimate it to be at least twice the thickness behind the edge. It's also worth noting these blades are identical in blade length and of a similar thickness. BG UG has 5 degree primary bevel and the Rattitude is 3 degree bevel. So they are quite comparable in most ways overall.

Also worth noting that I did not significantly overgrind either of these blades. I removed just enough metal to get the new bevels to go all the way to form an apex. That can also be a factor as I could easily grind the Bad Rattitude edge bevel much more to thicken it up where it meets the primary grind. This can easily happen with powered equipment if one is not being careful to grind slowly and deliberately removing metal only where it's needed and not other spots.

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Here's something I really love... thinner edges... ie. thickness measured behind the edge bevel. This can be a bit mucky trying to sort out because you must compare apples to apples, meaning the edge bevels must be the same measured angles from one knife to another. Here's a couple of knives that I've just reprofiled to a measured 15 degree per side edge. The difference between the two is quite dramatic and you could argue one is heavily overbuilt.

The first is a Busse Battle Grade Urban Grudge and the second is the new Bad Rattitude. Both were unused with factory bevels when I received them, so they should be considered representative for the most part. Note the extreme difference in the width of the edge bevels between the two. The wider the bevel is the thicker the measurement will be directly behind the edge bevel where it meets the primary grind.

I don't have calipers but a difference so large hardly needs them to tell the BG UG is obscenely thick compared to the lean Bad Rattitude which carries it's thinness all the way to the tip. I would estimate it to be at least twice the thickness behind the edge. It's also worth noting these blades are identical in blade length and of a similar thickness. BG UG has 5 degree primary bevel and the Rattitude is 3 degree bevel. So they are quite comparable in most ways overall.

Also worth noting that I did not significantly overgrind either of these blades. I removed just enough metal to get the new bevels to go all the way to form an apex. That can also be a factor as I could easily grind the Bad Rattitude edge bevel much more to thicken it up where it meets the primary grind. This can easily happen with powered equipment if one is not being careful to grind slowly and deliberately removing metal only where it's needed and not other spots.

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It's a "horses for courses" type thing with primary grinds + stock thickness.

I sometimes have to catch myself and remind myself that Busse Co. middle name is "Combat."

As such, I realize the factory primary grinds and stock thickness are gonna be quite generous for tasks such as opening crates, prying, hard impacts, busting straps, etc. on most of Busse's models.

But yeah, I'm not an operator and so I use my slicy Busse & Kin models 10:1 over the more obtuse offerings.

ScrapMax 460 gets my most use-- hands down for the very reasons you cited.
 
For me, I like thinner knives that cut, especially on smaller to medium sized blades. That means Thin stock and thin grinds. Full height flat grind is preferred almost every time. And yes, thin and consistent grind behind the edge is nice.

For larger knives, hold onto your hats…. I also like relatively thinner stock. It just keeps the weight down and makes them more enjoyable to carry and use for a longer period of time. Yes, I chop and baton, but if I REALLY need to chop a lot, I want an axe. A weight-forward dedicated chopper. Make those too! Unless I’m splitting wood, where thickness wins every time, I tend to favor faster swings (velocity, but also rate) over mass. It’s simple physics to me. Whether F=ma or F=mv^2/r, speed and acceleration just works better for me. That also means if someone can combine a thick blade spine with substantial lightening (fuller and drop hollow grind, perhaps?) and a close-to hand balance point, that works too. But that also makes for much more machining and added cost.

I like choils. That’s MY position. I don’t think they’re necessary on 3” or smaller knives, but I also love the “locked in control” feeling it gives. Like a subhilt, but better. Also gives me more freedom of grip options. And to me, if I need to get right behind the edge for fine work, I simply can’t choke/get closer to the edge than being in the choil.

I like Micarta over G-10 for the grip. I like Res-C a lot too, but wish there was just a little bit more micro texture than what’s on the recent offerings, and a flared butt-end would help with feelings of secure retention. I would like to see more Coffin and Regulator handles as well, whether on Res-C or a hard material. They’re just fantastic shapes.

Thanks for asking for opinions and taking charge of revamping the Swamp, Voodoo!
 
I like a full size choil .. but those little sharpening choils are annoying . Always catching on poly or tyvek wrap etc as I'm dangling off the edge of the ladder on the top step ..
 
I like some of the suggestions so far as they are things that are included in up and coming offers!

Exactly what they are? You will see soon enough!:cool:

I can tell you it's bigger than a matchbox and smaller than a railcar!
 
It's a "horses for courses" type thing with primary grinds + stock thickness.

I sometimes have to catch myself and remind myself that Busse Co. middle name is "Combat."

As such, I realize the factory primary grinds and stock thickness are gonna be quite generous for tasks such as opening crates, prying, hard impacts, busting straps, etc. on most of Busse's models.

But yeah, I'm not an operator and so I use my slicy Busse & Kin models 10:1 over the more obtuse offerings.

ScrapMax 460 gets my most use-- hands down for the very reasons you cited.
I was just going to post something similar. I have heard operators say they like thick/never going to break knives. I am also not an operator so I appreciate thin grinds. I haven't had a need to pry with a knife yet, so I would prefer that a knife excel in cutting and slicing. I have a ScrapMax 460 as well, and its an unusual Busse with Res C, thin grind and NO choil. More like that please! Also have the Mudd Mutt and that is also excellent if you need a more robust knife. My opinion is a choil is not needed in smaller knives.

I like choppers as well and that is where slightly thicker blade is appreciated. I would like to see a Chopweiler released again.
 
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