What did you rehang today?

Agent_H · Jul 21, 2015

quinton said:
Y, yes, yes it was.. Keep your scraper good and sharp and it will remove a lot of wood in a controlled kind of way. Again, nice hang!

Scrapers are great. Appreciate the tip. They shape and smooth all at once. Burnish on.

Just want to remind everyone to wear their safety goggles

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There isnt too much aesthetically pleasing about a basic maul but this ones handle was a recent casualty.
Pig with lipstick is still a pig. She gave up the pageant at the swimsuit competition. Sharpened enough to make it usable.
This is the only tool I have put steel wedges in- other than a hammer I hung several years ago.

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Oh, and speaking of hammers This 16oz plumb has been shuffled from corner to corner, drawer to drawer for about a year.

I assume its not old but now that it is hung it will get used more than the fire axe I am sure.

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This is my first attempt at a crosswedge.

That space on the Plumb's wedge-work doesn't extend but a touch- couldn't put more wood on it than it came with (that would be great though!).

Square_peg · Jul 21, 2015

Agent_H said:
This is my first attempt at a crosswedge.

Looks great!

Agent_H · Jul 22, 2015

Thanks Square_peg. Figure it's good practice for larger hangs. Followed some advice from the COTS thread here.

cityofthesouth · Jul 22, 2015

Annoying when the stick comes short .... we know that extra wood is just shavings on the shop floor somewhere AND while not as much the case with carpenters hammers, no two hammers have the same eye so there is no point in attempting to standardize the handles. I think you did a good job as well. One trick with the cross wedge - and you may already understand this so forgive me - the first wedge (the long wedge in your case?) can't be any wider than the handle. Because, once you drive the second wedge, you're going to spread the first wedge. Does that even make sense? It's not what we typically do with an axe. I always use a wedge that is as wide (or slightly wider) than the eye, right. But when cross wedging the first wedge can't be that way. The second one can. Hammers are terrific practice and I've hung far more of them than axes. Anyway, even with gaps, my feeling is that the cross wedge = hung for LIFE!

At least my opinion is that they really work.

Oh and also, that maul is perfect! Just looks right to my eyes.

rjdankert · Jul 22, 2015

quinton said:
. . . Keep your scraper good and sharp . . .

Yes, one of my uncles had a saying "a dull mind uses dull tools".

Don't know how many use scrapers, so this might be old hat. For those who don't, give them a try. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to maintain. A special purpose burnisher would be nice, but the burr can be drawn out and turned with whatever is at hand (e.g. the shaft of a screw driver). I use an old valve stem. There is a lot of information on the net. Here's link to start:
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Binding/How_to_sharpen_a_scraper.html

Disclaimer: no endorsement on the link - just an example.

Bob

Agent_H · Jul 22, 2015

COTS- thanks for the tip on the first wedge not being wider than the handle - Didn't think of that, not sure I would have.

Did you arrive at that from several tries at it?

The hammers/tools that you have cross-wedged (and not) are impressive.

Looking your thread again it looks like I ran the single and parted wedge pieces "backwards"?

Steve Tall · Jul 22, 2015

Here's a scraper made from an old hacksaw blade. A piece of hose gives some padding to the two-hand grip.

from http://www.continentalline.org/articles/article.php?date=0602&article=060205

garry3 · Jul 22, 2015

Steve Tall said:
Here's a scraper made from an old hacksaw blade. A piece of hose gives some padding to the two-hand grip.

from http://www.continentalline.org/articles/article.php?date=0602&article=060205

They can get warm when you are really using them hard which I think is the reason for hafting most of them. Many of the hafted ones look like a spoke shave. They sharpen different than the unhafted ones and I find that they are to much trouble for me to tune up. I also prefer a thicker blade than many of them have(less likely to chatter). A hunting knife held at about 90 deg works pretty well also if you don't have a scraper handy.

I think the main draw back to them is that there is a little bit of a learning curve to sharpening them. Many times when my scrapers quite producing curls they are not dull but the burr has rolled over. I use a triangle shaped hollow ground burnisher scraper to push it back up but there are many other things that would work.

cityofthesouth · Jul 22, 2015

Agent_H said:
COTS- thanks for the tip on the first wedge not being wider than the handle - Didn't think of that, not sure I would have.

Did you arrive at that from several tries at it?

The hammers/tools that you have cross-wedged (and not) are impressive.

Looking your thread again it looks like I ran the single and parted wedge pieces "backwards"?

Yeah I realized this from doing it the "usual" way a few times. What happens is, if it is already the width of the eye, the first wedge prevents the second wedge from really doing anything. If it is only the width of the handle, then it can spread open with the handle. The second wedge can be done as usual. Essentially you're trying to spread the handle front and back with one wedge, then left and right with the other, so you sort of have to think of it in steps. I did my first one the same way you did yours. I'm not sure there is a right or wrong, I just "decided" that I would do it the way I do now.

Agent_H · Jul 22, 2015

Steve Tall said:
Here's a scraper made from an old hacksaw blade. A piece of hose gives some padding to the two-hand grip.

from http://www.continentalline.org/articles/article.php?date=0602&article=060205

The hose is a great idea - thank you Steve. Until the actual cabinet scrapers I bought, I was using a spent hacksaw blade. It can be bent somewhat to follow a slight curve then will spring back straight. The purchased scrapers came in 3 shapes 1) rectangular 2) curved and 3) a paisley(?) shape <-- have yet to use that third one.

The hose would make it easier to hold and reduce the finger/hand fatigue from gripping it.

Agent_H · Jul 22, 2015

I appreciate knowing that COTS. I have a Skookum WPA sledge and a few other large hammers that I have yet to hang.

Square_peg · Jul 22, 2015

cityofthesouth said:
One trick with the cross wedge - and you may already understand this so forgive me - the first wedge (the long wedge in your case?) can't be any wider than the handle. Because, once you drive the second wedge, you're going to spread the first wedge. Does that even make sense? It's not what we typically do with an axe. I always use a wedge that is as wide (or slightly wider) than the eye, right. But when cross wedging the first wedge can't be that way. The second one can.

I think you're doing it backwards. For me cross-wedging involves 3 wedges not 2. The first wedge is the across the eye in its shortest dimension. The main wedge is cut into 2 pieces and driven as 2 separate wedges.

quinton · Jul 22, 2015

rjdankert said:
Yes, one of my uncles had a saying "a dull mind uses dull tools".

Don't know how many use scrapers, so this might be old hat. For those who don't, give them a try. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to maintain. A special purpose burnisher would be nice, but the burr can be drawn out and turned with whatever is at hand (e.g. the shaft of a screw driver). I use an old valve stem. There is a lot of information on the net. Here's link to start:
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Binding/How_to_sharpen_a_scraper.html

Disclaimer: no endorsement on the link - just an example.

Bob

I figure I'm about as sharp as a froe.

cityofthesouth · Jul 23, 2015

Square_peg said:
I think you're doing it backwards. For me cross-wedging involves 3 wedges not 2. The first wedge is the across the eye in its shortest dimension. The main wedge is cut into 2 pieces and driven as 2 separate wedges.

That works too but I just split the first wedge with a chisel once it's in. Strikes me as simpler. The second wedge will drive through the first one no problem. It is entirely possible that I am failing at putting it into words. I may just put an illustration in my project thread.

G-pig · Jul 23, 2015

Here's an old Marshall Wells hardware Co. I rehung on a fine Hickory handle, which this ol' fella deserves.

Also, a few more close to finished; a 3 1/4 pound KATCO (King Axe and Tool) on a 30" Ash, a Kelly Woodslasher boys axe (my very first vintage axe, sentimental as such) on a gnarly Hickory handle with knots (lots of character), and a 3 lb Rixford Connecticut on a 31" Ash.

halfaxe · Jul 23, 2015

That looks like a nice old reversible peeling pattern double bit there G. I don't see too many of those. A three pound Rixford Connecticut would be a thrill to find as well. Good job on the handles.

joshiecole · Jul 23, 2015

Your handles always have a very distinctive look G-Pig. I love to see you handiwork. I have an identically shaped Katco in the 2-1/2 lb weight category. It's my favourite.

Agent_H · Jul 23, 2015

G-pig those all look great!

Nothing wrong with those Wood Slasher boy's axes. I have one marked on and two I suspect to be same unmarked.

The light exposure keeps me from seeing the handle details but would like to

Especially the "character full" one.

G-pig · Jul 23, 2015

joshiecole said:
Your handles always have a very distinctive look G-Pig. I love to see you handiwork. I have an identically shaped Katco in the 2-1/2 lb weight category. It's my favourite.

Thanks. I've been doing more that are more pedestrian-- see the Jersey a page or two back. The main commonality is that there isn't much of a knob end curve on any of them. Just a hint is plenty for ergonomy.

Love a good Maine pattern too. Glad you landed that one and enjoy it.

Agent_H said:
G-pig those all look great!

Nothing wrong with those Wood Slasher boy's axes. I have one marked on and two I suspect to be same unmarked.

The light exposure keeps me from seeing the handle details but would like to

Especially the "character full" one.

Unfortunately I am a better wood worker than I am a photographer (obviously). I'll dub around with the camera at some point because I too don't like the way these pictures have been lately.

You can see one of the knots on that handle in the middle. The other is smaller, lighter in color, and right next to it. Apart from those, the grain was just nuts. It was absolutely a test of my skills to end up with a serviceable handle from that piece of wood. I used a finely fettled low angle block plane (which can cut without tearing out-- at least some times), a rasp and a scraper pretty extensively on that one because of the wonky grain.

Twoinch · Jul 24, 2015

Agent_H said:
The hose is a great idea - thank you Steve. Until the actual cabinet scrapers I bought, I was using a spent hacksaw blade. It can be bent somewhat to follow a slight curve then will spring back straight. The purchased scrapers came in 3 shapes 1) rectangular 2) curved and 3) a paisley(?) shape <-- have yet to use that third one.

The hose would make it easier to hold and reduce the finger/hand fatigue from gripping it.

no need to buy those pre cut "cabinet scrapers" the best scrapers i have used were all made out of saw blade stock. take an oldmiter box saw or cross cut saw and cut section out of it at whatever dimension you would like, and file/burnish them as usual. the saw steel hemerally holds a great burr. you can also select different thicknesses, which produce different working qualities. perfect handle tool

never found the hacksaw blade back scrapers worth a dang. to thin to get a good grasp of.