What did you rehang today?

How do you guys get such a clean look on the bottom of the eye, mine always has wood curled. Am I driving it too hard?
 
My eyes are not as sharp as they used to be, but I looked it over good and saw nothing, narrow it down for me, where do you see the A S? Near the handle or towards the center?

Go about 10-12 teeth from the handle up towards the spine and there's a word in decent size letters.
If you spray it down it can sometimes help the etch stand out in the right light.
 
I don't see an etch. A grill cleaning block is the preferred method to clean a saw and bring out any remaining etch.

Old saws are still plentiful. IMO the worth is in the sharpening. Sharpening a saw takes $100-$200 worth of labor. But a sharp crosscut is amazing.

A quick 'n' dirty supplementary handle can me made from a 5/8" bolt and nut. Just cut a kerf in it and drill a hole. Use a spike nail as the rivet. Tape for a grip. Or you can order a handle online for about $20.
 
My eyes are not as sharp as they used to be, but I looked it over good and saw nothing, narrow it down for me, where do you see the A S? Near the handle or towards the center?

I can't see a thing, but I can tell you that the saw is an older Curtis. It would have had the same etch that they are using today. Thankfully the etch is the only thing that saw will have in common with todays Curtis saws. The two guys bucking a log is what the etch looked like.http://crosscutsaw.com/ The C just under the handle is a Curtis mark, maybe still is?

This will tell you more.http://www.crosscutsawyer.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=458
 
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How do you guys get such a clean look on the bottom of the eye, mine always has wood curled. Am I driving it too hard?

Small curls are not unusual for me. I trim them off with the sheeps foot blade of my pocket knife. I think driving them hard is the way to go and I would not change a thing.
 
rockman0- Very nice crosscut, To help you sharpen and set your saw I would recommend my old friend Warren Miller's U S Forest Service "Crosscut Saw Manual", No. 7771 2508, first published in 1977.
 
How do you guys get such a clean look on the bottom of the eye, mine always has wood curled. Am I driving it too hard?

Drive it hard, I trim any curls with a knife or a razor blade. If you want it really clean you can drift the handle off and sand the curls off then seat it again.
 
rockman0- Very nice crosscut, To help you sharpen and set your saw I would recommend my old friend Warren Miller's U S Forest Service "Crosscut Saw Manual", No. 7771 2508, first published in 1977.

Thank you sir, lots of great information there. Learning to sharpen and set the teeth will be quite a task.
 
I can't see a thing, but I can tell you that the saw is an older Curtis. It would have had the same etch that they are using today. Thankfully the etch is the only thing that saw will have in common with todays Curtis saws. The two guys bucking a log is what the etch looked like.http://crosscutsaw.com/ The C just under the handle is a Curtis mark, maybe still is?

This will tell you more.http://www.crosscutsawyer.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=458

Thanks for the links. I can't find any etch anywhere. Just the C. Thanks identifying it as a Curtis.
 
I don't see an etch. A grill cleaning block is the preferred method to clean a saw and bring out any remaining etch.

Old saws are still plentiful. IMO the worth is in the sharpening. Sharpening a saw takes $100-$200 worth of labor. But a sharp crosscut is amazing.


A quick 'n' dirty supplementary handle can me made from a 5/8" bolt and nut. Just cut a kerf in it and drill a hole. Use a spike nail as the rivet. Tape for a grip. Or you can order a handle online for about $20.

I wrapped 220 grit around a block and it did a good job getting the rust off, no pitting anywhere so it is in good useable condition. Becoming proficient at sharpening and setting teeth will be a challenge but worthwhile skill to acquire.
Thanks for the handle tip.
 
I can't see a thing, but I can tell you that the saw is an older Curtis. It would have had the same etch that they are using today. Thankfully the etch is the only thing that saw will have in common with todays Curtis saws. The two guys bucking a log is what the etch looked like.http://crosscutsaw.com/ The C just under the handle is a Curtis mark, maybe still is?

This will tell you more.http://www.crosscutsawyer.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=458


Look for that very straight section of spine at the handle end, then go to the point where it starts to angle downwards. Below that there some curvy letters, and after clicking on that last link it like like that Curtis logo is what I'm seeing.
 
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How do you guys get such a clean look on the bottom of the eye, mine always has wood curled. Am I driving it too hard?

Small curls are not unusual for me. I trim them off with the sheeps foot blade of my pocket knife. I think driving them hard is the way to go and I would not change a thing.

A few small curls are OK but no curls is just as good. I want the forward progess of the haft into the eye to be stopped by the inside of the eye itself. This is the strongest most durable hang. If it simultaneously fills the bottom of the eye and produces a few small curls then that's fine. But you don't want the curling to create a shelf. That axe will come loose.

So in short, you're not driving it too hard. You should drive it hard. What you're doing is not shaving enough off the haft at the bottom of the eye.
 
How do you guys get such a clean look on the bottom of the eye, mine always has wood curled. Am I driving it too hard?

A good idea is to do a few claw hammer hangs first as they're pretty easy and give you some practice in the hanging process.
Currently I can get a perfect hang on a hammer or hatchet, but the size of a full sized axe has caused me to get a few bad hangs on my axe ( weren't the best handles anyway, so I've decided to wait until I have a need for it )
 
Look for that very straight section of spine at the handle end, then go to the point where it starts to angle downwards. Below that there some curvy letters, and after clicking on that last link it like like that Curtis logo is what I'm seeing.

I'll take a look next time I get back in the shed. Thanks
 
Had an old vintage handle that came off an old craftsman hatchet. It had a Crack that ran too deep to put the craftsman 1lb head back on so I cut it down and fitted it for this mini craftsman. Feels great, I think I'm going to like this one better than my straight handle mini. It was a 14" handle. Now overall length is 12".
F1rPN1I.jpg

18wacaE.jpg

2T1vwbZ.jpg

Ptrhn0J.jpg

YTetiLP.jpg
 
Had an old vintage handle that came off an old craftsman hatchet. It had a Crack that ran too deep to put the craftsman 1lb head back on so I cut it down and fitted it for this mini craftsman. Feels great, I think I'm going to like this one better than my straight handle mini. It was a 14" handle. Now overall length is 12".
F1rPN1I.jpg

18wacaE.jpg

2T1vwbZ.jpg

Ptrhn0J.jpg

YTetiLP.jpg

Not bad ! You should dig up the " the mini hatchet " thread and add it there.
 

Collins hb on original haft. Grain isn't perfect, but the haft is straight. Turned out pretty well. I don't think this one had ever been used
 
Nice work on that Hudson Bay. I only have/use one no-name HB pattern.

That Collins look pretty intact. Leaving the black paint looks good.
 
I've been a chainsaw guy for years but just got introduced to the world of Axes. I procured a few cheap axe heads to learn to hang and this is one of the first nice ones I tried. I bought the head already finished and went with a painted half handle and BLO.
DSCN0243_zpsgnd26iab.jpg

DSCN0246_zpsmbdrznck.jpg

DSCN0247_zpsefwwgc1k.jpg


I first tried stain on the lower part of the handle but I haven't had good luck with stain on these hickory handles so I ended up using paint. I had some bleed through under the tape that I need to clean up.

It's so pretty now I'm not sure I want to use it.
 
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