What did you rehang today?

This one is 27” long. The head is something I picked up locally and is likely German or Chinese in origin. The handle is the intact portion of a vintage handle that had a split up fawn’s foot and overstrike damage about halfway through, just below the tongue. I think it was the handle to an older Mann axe I found at a barn sale. The head is sharp now though. Didn’t do anything to mitigate the wear on the spike end.


I was left to my own devices in my shop area and a little Knob Creek. It was a nice evening to be honest.

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A nice plumb 1.5-1.75lb head on a House 18" broad axe handle. Bloodwood wedge, raw linseed oil. Dice (the cat) is not impressed.



 
Just rehung a Norlund Saddle Cruiser, I must say I don't get all the hubbub over Norlund. I was very unimpressed with the quality of the grinds and the temper of the steel.

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I was hanging this claw hatchet on what I think was a House handle rigging axe handle.
I just could not get past how thin it was and knew I would be rehanging it sooner rather than later. I like a lot of what House Handle sells but their rigging axe handles are just all wrong. I know that handle will never stand up to pulling nails or take many overstrikes. Just to thin below the shoulders.
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After taking inventory I did not have a suitable straight handle and since I had more time than money I decided to hew out my own.

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I dug up a Vine maple bow stave that had taken to much reflex after being cut. I was able to get enough of a straight section out of that. It has been seasoning in the shed for about twenty years.

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Vine Maple is not as hard and heavy as Sugar Maple or the Canyon Maple, but it does have a resiliency that I think will serve me well enough for a hatchet handle. I tried to make the center of the tree the center of the handle but I missed it. I don't think it will matter much.
 
Agreed on the Jersey patterns. I just hadn't seen a nice, full Connecticut on a straight handle like yours.

Very nice shaping on your handles btw - They have a look about them that says they were prepped, shaped, and treated by the same person. Classy.

Kind of a signature maybe, intended or not?

If I had a signature to my hangs it would probably be inadvertently making the swells look like dongs. Not classy...

Appreciate the kind words, I can't say I purposely strive for the same handle every time, just the same steps I suppose. I worked for a good year trying to find a stain for hickory, a forced patina method for the head and about a dozen other things to maintain consistent with to develop a more signature style, but I've yet to find something that replicates easily, and if it does, it tends to get boring.
 
Garry, I think that handle looks great. The vine maple around here is pretty spindly and crooked growing stuff.

Definitely looks sturdier than the House handle in your first picture.

How long did it end up being?
 
Garry, I think that handle looks great. The vine maple around here is pretty spindly and crooked growing stuff.

Definitely looks sturdier than the House handle in your first picture.

How long did it end up being?

Thanks Agent H.
It is a little over 18". We do not have any Vine Maple in this state. We have a Mountain Maple that looks similar but the wood is not near as good as the Vine Maple in my opinion. I harvested this Maple in the Oregon Cascades, like you said it can be a little spindly and crooked. If it has a weakness it will be in abrasion resistance if you don't get much run out.
 
First post! New user. My first axe restoration and first leather working project. The axe bit was found in my brother in law's garage when I helped my sister move after he passed (early age of 33, leaving my sister, their 2 year old, and their now 6 mo old). I had been wanting a project and this one had loads of sentimental and personal value.

- cut the old handle off / took forever to clear the epoxy stuff they use from the eye
- vinegar bath revealed Plumb logo. Deduced that it was a Boy's Camp axe
- found new Tennessee Hickory handle in town (great grain) 28"
- sanded handle to restore somewhat of the thinner, more curved shape of previous handle
- hung head
- new edge and stone sharpened
- leather sheathe dyed, stitched, riveted, and snap

Anyone think I should put a sharper bevel on the cutting edge. Not sure if I'm wording that correct. Should my cutting blade be a longer skinnier bevel or is it good, somewhat blunter, as is. I've yet to really use it now that I've put the work into it. I'm guessing as I begin chopping firewood, etc I'll know if I want a sharper cutting blade.

Thanks, glad to be here!

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This is a 2lb Plumb ballpein on a new 18" House Handle, a 12oz old head on an old 14" replacement handle, and a Wards 1.25lb head on a hand made 13.5" hickory blank that I bought and finished. All have a few coats of linseed oil and then beeswax finish.


Nice job on that hatchet handle. Looks like the same little Wards I just got!
 
This one is 27” long. The head is something I picked up locally and is likely German or Chinese in origin. The handle is the intact portion of a vintage handle that had a split up fawn’s foot and overstrike damage about halfway through, just below the tongue. I think it was the handle to an older Mann axe I found at a barn sale. The head is sharp now though. Didn’t do anything to mitigate the wear on the spike end.



A cute little fella maybe for keeping in the car/truck or trailer or who knows where else. You did a 'very polite' job of rehanging this. My compliments.
 
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