what finish to put on edges?

[Nosmo]

A friend has been involved in the newsprint business for the last 20 years.
He tells me that there are different weights, ( thickness variation??) , and different stiffness due to additives to make the paper look white.

Also different print processes have different types of paper.
Also there are new inks that make the paper stiffer and allow colour.

When I told him , sharpening enthusiasts were using newsprint to judge blades, he smiled.

 

[daberti]

Generally you start off very fine because you can always decrease the grit if the cutting aggression is too low. However if you jump too to low a grit you can't add material back if it came off too quickly. TiAlN is actually a ceramic, if it is fully coated on the edge I would be curious what would happen if you just honed it off one side of the bevel. It might act on the other side to increase edge retention similar to the "rat's tooth" principle where metals of dissimilar wear rates are used to induce self sharpening of digging equipment.

-Cliff

I will start Green DMT then for a couple of reasons:
1)What you said
2)Underlying S90V should be very fine grained and so full of Vanadium carbides that should cut anyway. Am I right?

Indeed if I should sgarpen one side only it should go the way you tell: TiAlN is 80HRC.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Underlying S90V should be very fine grained and so full of Vanadium carbides that should cut anyway. Am I right?

Much has been made about carbides in the edges of knives providing cutting ability. Having a lot of carbides can keep the edge cutting as the steel wears away but they don't enhance optimal sharpness, they in fact reduce it. The amount of carbides which is optimal depends on your sharpness preference, basically how much do you let your knives blunt before you sharpen them.

-Cliff

 

[daberti]

Much has been made about carbides in the edges of knives providing cutting ability. Having a lot of carbides can keep the edge cutting as the steel wears away but they don't enhance optimal sharpness, they in fact reduce it. The amount of carbides which is optimal depends on your sharpness preference, basically how much do you let your knives blunt before you sharpen them.

-Cliff

You're right. I do never let my knives blunt as I touch up 'em every fortnight.
Coming back to the original issue: I sharpened my F4 with Green DMT making actually a nearly invisible microbevel .
Knife comes out with a 26ish degree (per side) setting. I just took it to slightly more. This way I left as much coating as possible over the edge to preserve "added" hardness and corrosion resistance. It cuts like devil, pops my hair off, cuts manila rope and more. I guess that 59-60HRC, triple tempering and cryo made by Kevin did it!