What have you been whittling with your traditionals?

JM2 said:
I made a wooden utensil for my wifey the other day (not whittled). But the offal was pretty close and I though might as well make a few Christmas ornaments. This is cherry, and the hardest most seasoned piece I ever worked I might add. The completed spoon has paste wax on it.

I thought it’d look cool to have a chipped surface so I did that all over even though I didn’t hew the whole thing with hand tools.
Click to expand...
On that note. I been wanting to make a shaving horse for some time. I have a drawknife but not a froe. But I really like the old timey woodworking methods. I spose I could make a froe... anyways. I for some reason like the idea of going from log to finished item with only hand tools. It’s more satisfying.

The utensil I made for the wife; well she wanted a spatula thing for ground meat. I started whittling it and my golly that was some solid cherry. So I decided to go after it with the bandsaw and sanders. It turned out real nice. I’ll save it for her birthday I think.
 
dantzk8 said:
It's the model "Pocket Carver". Farm & Field lineup by GEC. Great whittler.

Dan.
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing. I like the look of it without bolsters. How’s it held up? My fear is whittling will cause wobble without bolsters for strength.
 
JM2 said:
What brand of knife is that?
Click to expand...
It's one of the f&f 62 pocket carvers
1NRSdgx.jpeg
 
JM2 said:
Thanks for sharing. I like the look of it without bolsters. How’s it held up? My fear is whittling will cause wobble without bolsters for strength.
Click to expand...

The Farm & Field knives are all shadow patterns.
What characterizes them is the use of cutlery rivet pivots which confine all the mechanical stresses to the rivets.
Much stronger than the classic pin in bolster construction.
I own 4 F&F models (35, 47, 62 and 99).
They are, on a daily basis, used as working knives since years. None of them has ever failed. Great knives.

Dan.
 
Last edited:
Here’s the other spoon ornament, the bell ornament, and a little dish, all with wax. I made the dish a year or more ago but never got to finalizing it. It just materialized out of a piece of 2x4 splinter that was handy, while I was setting in the driveway one evening. Anyways.


All of it was done with the 75 stockman.
 
Last edited:
What makes a good whittling knife? I have several Benchmades, folders and fixed blades. But I don't envision them as carvers. I also have several Old Timer/Schrade/Case traditional folders that might work. Nothing fancy though.
 
Personally I like a stockman. The Spey blade is handy for hollowing spoons. But it’s also handy because it doesn’t have as dangerous point if you’re doing close to hand work and cutting towards yourself.

Using the hand to sorta squeeze the knife towards you gives a lot of control. Also when cutting away from myself, I use my off hand thumb to push the blade into the work, for controlled cuts.

The sheepsfoot blade does good for like, chip carving or just stock removal. The large blade is less useful unless you’re peeling bark, or removing lots of material. But it’s useful for making a hole with the tip or on a fine radius where the grain changes.

I’ve whittled with stockmans, trappers, jack knife, Barlow, buck 110, several fixed blades like buck 192, 119, several Swiss Army knives. But I prefer a pocket knife like a schrade old timer 34OT or the case stockmans. Carbon steel does better in my opinion, but I’ll whittle with anything I have handy.

A benchmade like a barrage or whatever can surely be used. I’ve used a buck 345, some. The finer stuff needs a finer blade or a careful technique.

Nothing wrong with sharpening a stick. I still sharpen them when I’m setting somewhere and need a whittling stick. Then I cut the point off and make it flat. Then I concave some of it. Long as I’m putting steel to wood it’s fun.
 
Last edited:
67RS/SSx2 said:
What makes a good whittling knife? I have several Benchmades, folders and fixed blades. But I don't envision them as carvers. I also have several Old Timer/Schrade/Case traditional folders that might work. Nothing fancy though.
Click to expand...
I use straight blades to carve with. 1½ to 1¾ inch is my favorite but will go up to 2 inches. Longer than that I don't feel I have control and leverage to the tip. Then try to find the thinnest blade possible that won't be too flexible. The thinner blade will go through wood easier. I like a full flat grind, the secondary bevel will pull the edge off the wood on shaving cuts. Then get something with a decent handle length and thickness so you are comfortable holding it for long periods with out hot spots or hand fatigue.

As mentioned stockman are a good choice because there many sizes and shapes and the blades tend to be thin. Pen knives and congress patterns offer a lot of options. If you can get one or something similar to the GEC 35 Churchill it makes a great EDC plus whittler I love it in that roll. Another option is a Ettrick from A Wright and sons.
pqiOKt1.jpeg


1i1DdGS.jpeg
 
67RS/SSx2 said:
What makes a good whittling knife? I have several Benchmades, folders and fixed blades. But I don't envision them as carvers. I also have several Old Timer/Schrade/Case traditional folders that might work. Nothing fancy though.
Click to expand...


There are many anwers and you will have to practice to find your preference.
Here is how i see it.

For stock removal, no matters much the blade shape, a long straight edge (about 3 inches) will work fine.

DSC_0554.JPG

A 2 inches spey blade for hollowed carving.

DSC_0555.JPG

And the most important knife, the one for details carving. Short Wharmcliffe blades (main: 2 inches, secondaries :1.1/2 inch) for precise cuts. You know where the blade tip is in the cut and can avoid to damage the part of the wood you want to keep. The drawback is the brittleness of the tip but that's not something a good file can't fix.

DSC_0556.JPG

An other possibility : fixed blades for large pieces of wood, spoons., bowls, axe handles...

DSC_0172.JPG

Blade steel : exclusively carbon steel.
For whittling sharpness isn't enough, keeness is a must.
scienceofsharp.com

Definitions of Sharp and Keen

Consider definitions from the Merriam-Webster dictionary: sharp adjective \shärp\ : having a thin edge that is able to cut things keen adjective \kēn\ : having a fine edge or point These two adject…
scienceofsharp.com scienceofsharp.com
The carbides of the so said modern steels are useless for whittling, wood isn't abrasive, it's the lateral mechanical stress of the grain which degrades the edge.
An other point : carbides don't hold up well at less than 15° sharpening angle and carbon steel can take a 10° angle if maintained with a strop.

That's all i know.

Dan.
 
Last edited:
I respectfully disagree with Dan’s assertion that only carbon steel is good for whittling. I’ve successfully used 1095 and W1, sure, but I’ve also successfully used D2, Case tru sharp, Sandvik, Gerber 420HC, whatever Victorinox uses, and S35VN.

Admittedly the S35VN has had limited use, but this is more due to ESEE’s beefy blade geometry than the steel they make it with. It will give me crystal clear end grain shavings. A knife like the recent Case stockman release would be a better S35VN option for whittling.

Bottom line is- if you can sharpen it to a fine edge, you can whittle with it. What works best is often a matter of blade size and shape for your application.
 
I will add that my response is what works for me. The two Dans use what work for them. At the end of the day, a sharp knife with good blade geometry and a comfortable handle will work.

The best knife to use is the one in your hand.

As you work with and try different knives if you find yourself picking the same knife over and over? That's probably the one for you.
 
A fun discussion, thanks all for sharing. I use stainless for whittling sorta begrudgingly. It’s not as easy to whittle with. But it don’t rust so I carry it in summer more, because whittling is just one chore my knife sees.

I’m working on a few chain links, doing it with my imperial Barlow. First, just to get to know the knife. Second because the blades are suitable in size, smaller than the 75 case I carry mostly. And third, because carbon steel gets sharp in the way I need for that fine of work.

I am wanting to add a carbon bladed ‘75 case to my assortment, specifically for whittling detail. As well as a dedicated whittler like jiki and Dan has shown.

Another thing not mentioned here is what wood to use. Buying wood specifically for whittling makes complex projects easier. I enjoy sourcing my own wood. Most folks don’t whittle cherry, oak, ash, walnut. Mostly it’s soft woods like cedar, spruce, pine, and basswood is what most buy.
 
Last edited:
EngrSorenson said:
Great thread- I’m going to like it here.
I’ve spent many hours whittling, and I need to take pictures of more of the results. Here’s a simple joint I made one evening.

TYyx7Er.jpg


dGU2Ce0.jpg
Click to expand...
That’s a neat little cross. Clean joint. What model knife is that?
 
JM2 said:
That’s a neat little cross. Clean joint. What model knife is that?
Click to expand...
Great Eastern Cutlery #35 Churchill circa 2017, Maroon Linen Micarta.
That sheepsfoot blade has been one of the best carving blades I've used.
 
EngrSorenson said:
Great Eastern Cutlery #35 Churchill circa 2017, Maroon Linen Micarta.
That sheepsfoot blade has been one of the best carving blades I've used.
Click to expand...
I thought it might have been the Churchill. I haven’t dipped my toes into the GEC waters yet but I’m learning about their models.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top