Greg,
I don't have time right now for a long detailed answer. So, I will have to try to be brief.
Most of what I have done to date has been to remove the coating and grind up close to the scales at the ricasso to remove as many pits and machine marks as possible. But, in most cases, the micarta scales in particular are not square and I can't really feasibly grind all around the scales on the flats. It is quite frustrating and one of the annoyances (to me) :grumpy: of having to put SO MUCH effort into making CG blades how I want them = SATIN!
* If you look carefully at the satin RMD I posted, you will notice a darker gray around the scales at the ricasso. The pommel is the same. This "gray" is under the coating and is typically sanded off on the parts of the blade you can "Get" to. Once you sand through the gray, you will reveal more pits and machine marks that are hard to see through the gray. But, the gray is too hard to sand around the ricasso next to the scales, the guard and the pommel. So, until I get the tools and equipment to re-install scales, I have to live with it. :grumpy:
However, the spines and bellys of the tang can be sanded to remove pits and marks. In the process, you will sand the scales as well. Micarta and G10 sand just fine. In most cases you will probably want to start with 100 - 220 grit and move to finer grits that will actually polish the micarta and G10. :thumbup:
**** Apparently, the resins in micarta and G10 are a bit toxic in the lungs. So, wear a mask whenever creating dust with those materials!
I have researched and know how to remove the scales and re-attach the scales.
But, I don't have time right now to do the research and post links or type it all out - considering there are a "Few" worthwile thread to read.
So, do a search using Bladeforum search tools or probably better: use Google Advanced search and specify
www.bladeforums.com as "specific site / domain" to only search.
I don't remember the best key words, but I think "Flare tube" would be one of the main key phrases to search for (????). - Maybe "Hollow tube", "handle rivet" ....????
There are a few threads.
Removing the scales and re-attaching them would give significantly improved end "finished" results. And further, having the scales off while doing the work makes the work easier. But, you have to have the right tools to remove the scales and re-attach the scales.
Functionally: A strong argument could be made that leaving the coating on the tang under the scales is the best protection against corrosion and might be worth not hassling with scale removal for the benefits of corrosion resistance under the scales. But, you would either have to live with slightly unfinished satin work around the ricasso and pommel areas. Or where out your fingertips trying to polish by hand or similar.
A Dremel tool might sound like an obvious solution. But, my guess is the various satin swirl marks (that don't match you other satin finish marks) you are most likely to achieve with a Dremel probably look worse than the matte gray.
- So, I don't think I would recommend the hassle. - Maybe others are better with a Dremel than I am.
Removing the scales is reasonably easy "IF" you have a drill press!
(research to confirm bit size), but you just drill out the flare tubes with a (I think) 1/4" drill bit. A drill press with the knife "VERY SECURELY" clamped is HIGHLY recommended.
***** One of the forum guys sliced his hand up VERY bad by not clamping a blade when he drilled out the flare tubes. The bit can catch into the tube and sling the blade around like a propeller at very fast speeds.... and likely sling the blade after that fun is done. So, while having your hands and arms severely sliced up might suck, it could be lucky compared to possible alternatives.
I have seen the pics of this guys hand. Rather than me searching for and posting, just take my word that it was gruesome. And just be VERY aware and cautious that power tools and sharp blades are potentially a VERY dangerous combination.
Most people don't realize how well a drill bit can stick into metal, bite deep and drill bit, metal and all other attached pieces become one big spinning hazzard.
Serioiusly, DON'T create a situation or get on the wrong size of a HIGHLY out of balance sharp metal blade spinning at about 2,000 rpm or so.
Pretty much most any blade weight - when out of balance! - would be plenty to snap a piddly 1/4" drill bit at those speeds.
Having drilled through steel before, I HIGHLY recommend a drill "Press" for this type of steel drilling. A press is suited for clamping of material. It won't torque and break your wrist if a heavy duty blade catches. And it allows for much better control and slow cutting. If you lower the bit slowly and controlled, you can shave steel rather than bite deep and stick - which a hand drill is way more prone to doing.
Sorry for the lecture, but feel I should use attach serious cautioning disclaimers in the even certain people read and decide to try without knowing what could happen if done wrong.
-------------
Once you remove the scales, you can strip the coating and satin finish much easier.
Then you re-install the scales.
To re-install the scales, you need:
- flare tubing - there are different types used. I am not sure which is best yet. If I remember correctly, 1/4" tubing - Can be purchased from many various knife-maker supply vendors online. Seems to need to be well polished at tips were cut to help avoid splitting.
- a flaring die - apparently there are certain screw heads that can be modified to work well. But, most seem to recommend lots of lube to help the die flare the tube and also help prevent splitting the tube.
- A Heavy Duty Vice or press with LOTS of psi
* Worth doing the research and reading some of the other flare tube scale install threads.
----------------
I would recommend at least putting a good coat of wax on the area covered by the scales. SR-101 will trap moisture under the scales and it will rust.
Other options to possibly consider: put a lacqure coating under the scales (mark where the scales go with a pencil and brush that area).
Or you could epoxy the scales on. But, be carefull with epoxy drip out. You would need to clamp to epoxy properly. And you would need to make sure the scales are lines up properly. So, I would probably flare the tubes before the epoxy dries and only use epoxy that allows at least 30 minutes work time. As you clamp, epoxy will drip out. It will be a mess and you will need to wipe up excess epoxy - especially on the ricasso and pommel where you can't easily sand it off if it dries. After it gets past the given epoxies "work" time, it usually doesn't drip much anymore and can be set to finish curing.
But, typically, Busse does not use epoxy and just relies on the flare tubes to hold the scales on. With the right tubes and if flared properly, they hold pretty well.
But, satin SR-101 will rust under the scales over time. Ultimately, that rust doesn't matter much. In most cases, it is just surface rust that is trapped under the scales and won't amount to NEARLY enough to be a concern.
If you left the scales submerged in salt-water for say 10 - 75 years (?????), then it might get messy.
----------------
For maintenance of exposes SR-101 on ALL of my satin SR-101 blades (and all my users are SATIN!!!), I use Ren-Wax - which works very well for the exposed areas.
If an SR-101 knife were stripped under the scales, Ren-Wax or lubricants should do pretty well at sealing the gaps between the scales and tang as well.
I even use Ren-Wax on my micarta scales. Micarta has the canvas (cotton) material in it and micarta absorbs liquids pretty well. If wet enough, I think it would saturate to the tang.
The Ren-Wax actually makes micarta look quite nice and seals it without being slippery like lube. :thumbup:
Hope that is enough to answer some of your questions and get you in the direction to answer most other questions. :thumbup:
.
- might be justified by "SOME" military uses. But, I don't get it for civilians.
