what is the best 6 inch tool steel/carbon steel suvival knife

[mneedham]

Rock,

Nice looking B. Johnson, looks like a real brute!

 

[KiljoyKutlery]

Scrapper 6..just about perfect.

 

[Ron53]

ROCK6, that's a GREAT looking knife! :thumbup: I like that!

Ron

 

[HighDesertWalker]

Bark river Game keeper II? A very good looking knife. A CS SRK in carbon V would fit your criteria and leave you with about $100 left over.

Ditto on the CS SRK. Mine meets all needs for a heavy duty 6" blade. :thumbup:

 

[Runsalone]

This would be my pick. Busse Combat JackHammer in Competition Finish.

What are all the ridges for......? Not to highjack the thread but WTF?

 

[Macchina]

What are all the ridges for......? Not to highjack the thread but WTF?

They are a bunch of blood grooves. For when your knife is really soaking in blood, and it would really hinder the performance if you didn't have all of those blood grooves.

 

[ilbruche]

What are all the ridges for......? Not to highjack the thread but WTF?

Increases the tacticool factor by 10 points.

 

[Bkultra]

What are all the ridges for......? Not to highjack the thread but WTF?

That is Busse's Corrugated Bevel Technology (CBT), which not only strengthens the blade but also reducesoverall weight while reduding the cutting friction along the entire height of the bevel

 

[Ron53]

"That is Busse's Corrugated Bevel Technology (CBT), which not only strengthens the blade but also reduces overall weight while reducing the cutting friction along the entire height of the bevel.....Bkultra"

?????????

Interesting.

Ron

 

[TWBryan]

How about a Benchmade CSK?

 

[VoxHog]

What are all the ridges for......? Not to highjack the thread but WTF?

The grooves make the knife lighter without compromising stiffness or strength. They also cut down on friction during baton work.

 

[rifon2]

How about a Benchmade CSK?

I picked up a CSKII very recently. The new one, in 1095.

It's a terrific knife. Very reminiscent of the Cold Steel SRK which is of course out of production. And in many ways I like the Benchmade even better.

Not to mention that it's a "steal" at street price.

 

[koyote]

How heavy do you want it? If i were doing a design I'd do about 1/8 inch spine, relatively deep blade (1 inch to 1.25 inches) with a leuku type belly and straight spine. longish handle with no real finger cutouts but a slightly wider butt. Maybe a bit of a dogbone. Convex or scandi, would be my bet

 

[Keith_H]

This would be my pick. Busse Combat JackHammer in Competition Finish.

I remember talk of that finish, when did it come out? How much?

oh and it just feels stronger because it is lighter.

 

[Stainz]

What about a good old basic original KaBar? At 6.5" of 1095 CS, it's hard to beat... did me quite well in the woods - before I learned what a proper 'bushcraft' knife was - and spent a fortune on BR's, etc. Of course, at <$60 mail order, you'll have some of that $200 left for a Buck 110 or SAK for the pocket - and supplies. More expensive/most modern/recent craze isn't always the best answer...

Stainz

 

[attej]

This would be my pick. Busse Combat JackHammer in Competition Finish.

Wild-looking knife, no doubt. Does the sharp pointy end of the handle have functions in the woods? I've only seen that kind of design in fighting knives such as this, and some rescue knives (used for bashing in a car window etc.). I'm accustomed to using a puukko-style knives, and to me that sharp end would make some grips impossible.

Another thing that to me is a bit unconvenient, is the finger coil in the blade. Im not sure what's the benefit in such a design when comparing to a knife that has a blade that is sharp all the way to the handle? Those finger coils are really common these days, especially in US made outdoors knives, so Im sure there is a good reason for 'em... ?

 

[attej]

What about a good old basic original KaBar? At 6.5" of 1095 CS, it's hard to beat... did me quite well in the woods - before I learned what a proper 'bushcraft' knife was - and spent a fortune on BR's, etc. Of course, at <$60 mail order, you'll have some of that $200 left for a Buck 110 or SAK for the pocket - and supplies. More expensive/most modern/recent craze isn't always the best answer...

Stainz

I've always found blade-weighted knives to be a bit... limited in their uses. They are great choppers, no doubt, but for dextrous use, such as cleaning a fish of preparing tinder, they are pretty clumsy. For example, I bought a Cold Steel SRK a couple of years ago, and other than the shitty plastic sheat, the knife was really high quality, tough as hell, great steel etc. But, after a few months, I noticed that it was just too clumsy for general purpose outdoors knife.

I've never really used a KaBar, but Im under the assumption that it's overall design is pretty close to the SRK?

 

[Fiddleback]

Another thing that to me is a bit unconvenient, is the finger coil in the blade. Im not sure what's the benefit in such a design when comparing to a knife that has a blade that is sharp all the way to the handle? Those finger coils are really common these days, especially in US made outdoors knives, so Im sure there is a good reason for 'em... ?

It is inconvenient. The choil is a fad, and only functions to reduce the usability of anything but the largest of knives. The area of the edge right at the handle is the most useful for stiff cuts, like notching, and the choil moves that away from your hand.

So no, there is no good reason for it except that its popular.

 

[Ron53]

You're right, Andy...sort of like adding "ridges" to the blade. Guess it does have a "coolness" factor, though. Somehow my Randalls and Ka-bars that I carried in the days when I still wore a uniform all worked very well without "ridges" and other "interesting" things to make them more....efficient...in the big jungle.

Ron

 

[m. wohlwend]

I think the original post was about a knife made of tool steel/carbon steel, does a Busse even fall into that category when it is made of designer INFI ?