what is the best 6 inch tool steel/carbon steel suvival knife

I like choils in blades between 5" and 8" as I can choke up on the knife for detail work. With a choil you have the option of turning your 6" knife into one that functions as a 5" knife by choking up on the blade.

Smaller than 5" the choil gets in the way. Larger than 8" and even if I choke up on the blade the knife is still too large for detail work.

The pointed bit on the end is basically an ice/glass breaker to me although I'm sure that you could use it for semi-blunt trauma if push came to shove. I have seen some guys smooth that out with a belt sander to accomodate various grips.
 
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I agree with attej about heavy blade weighted knives. My design suggestion has what NOWDAYS would be considered a fairly thin blade, but when compared to a leuku or seax or some classic case or western knives is just right.

I also partly agree with Fiddleback. I think choils have uses on certain types of knives. the "half choil" on something like a SOG government or most Meulas is worse than useless. And a choil on the type of knife the OP is talking about makes no sense to me. Taht being said, I've put nice full comfortable choils on some smaller knives and skinners along with multiple thumbrest points. They can serve a purpose, in some cases. In a 6 to 8 inch field knife, I'd just as soon add an inch to the handle and have more space to adjust grip that way.

In fact, I'd go for a pretty plain grip area. Well executed, comfortable, but not molded to a single type of use. I would still go with a modified dogbone or a rear coffin shape on the butt. That, for me, at least, makes chopping go better.
 
VoxHog said:
I like choils in blades between 5" and 8" as I can choke up on the knife for detail work. With a choil you have the option of turning your 6" knife into one that functions as a 5" knife by choking up on the blade.
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Ok, so the idea is to "shorten" the blade for detailed work. For me, the part nearest the hande is the part I use most, since I can apply most force to that part. For example, cutting a small tree by bending the tree and pushing the knife trough the tree with a rockin motion. With a choil-design it doesn't work that way, since even with a chocked grip, the handle does not support the hand, and the grip is too dangerous for using a lot of force. Now that I think of it, I actually do use a chocked grip with knives that dont even have a choil. For example cleaning a fish with my ranger puukko, I choke up the grip as far as I can, often keeping the index and middle finger on the back of the blade. But that's only for detailed tasks, that do not require a lot of force. So, I suppose it's all a matter of opinion, and most of all, about the kind of use the knife sees the most.


VoxHog said:
The pointed bit on the end is basically an ice/glass breaker to me although I'm sure that you could use it for semi-blunt trauma if push came to shove. I have seen some guys smooth that out with a belt sander to accomodate various grips.
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I can definately see the benefits of that design in urban / suburban use, but for outdoors-use I couldn't think of one. I dont have a knife that has that pointy end, except for a rescue-knife in my car, so Im not sure how much it effects some of the basic grips.
 
koyote said:
I agree with attej about heavy blade weighted knives. My design suggestion has what NOWDAYS would be considered a fairly thin blade, but when compared to a leuku or seax or some classic case or western knives is just right.

I also partly agree with Fiddleback. I think choils have uses on certain types of knives. the "half choil" on something like a SOG government or most Meulas is worse than useless. And a choil on the type of knife the OP is talking about makes no sense to me. Taht being said, I've put nice full comfortable choils on some smaller knives and skinners along with multiple thumbrest points. They can serve a purpose, in some cases. In a 6 to 8 inch field knife, I'd just as soon add an inch to the handle and have more space to adjust grip that way.

In fact, I'd go for a pretty plain grip area. Well executed, comfortable, but not molded to a single type of use. I would still go with a modified dogbone or a rear coffin shape on the butt. That, for me, at least, makes chopping go better.
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For me, the term "survival knife" somehow always translates as "jack of all trades"; a knife you can use to do everything. To that kind of use, to me personally, the best knife seems to be one that is well balanced both in weight, and in design. I guess Im so used to puukkos, and simple designs, that I always feel that strong shapes and designs in a knife limits its uses and grips for some specific functions. So, I too believe in plain designs for general use. I suppose that ideology can be seen also in my "weapon of choice"

sissipuukko6.jpg
 
attej said:
For me, the term "survival knife" somehow always translates as "jack of all trades"; a knife you can use to do everything. To that kind of use, to me personally, the best knife seems to be one that is well balanced both in weight, and in design. I guess Im so used to puukkos, and simple designs, that I always feel that strong shapes and designs in a knife limits its uses and grips for some specific functions. So, I too believe in plain designs for general use. I suppose that ideology can be seen also in my "weapon of choice"
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I like puukkos, and leukus. They influence some of my designs. This one:

straightspinebush2.jpg


has a pretty obvious scandinavian influence. I like the greater depth of blade in a survival knife, myself. The blade on that, btw, is around 4.5 inches. It's also NOT a sharpened prybar, convex ground 3/32 spine. The plain fully oval handle shape is better, in my personal experience, for making use of shifting grips. This sort of thing in a 6 inch blade with 1/8 spine and a half inch more on the handle would be pretty ideal, I think, as a larger field knife. I don't think I'd need to run a clip point to keep the weight down. By giving a bit more blade edge taper than a leuku would have, the balance is improved.

For really small stuff, this design is decent. I've made a half dozen of these as gifts, and the blade is just about perfect (modulo hand size) for being able to put your thumb in the clip and do belly skinning type tasks:

(excuse the sheath. this one was a dressy piece and not a standard field carry)

xmas1.jpg
 
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koyote said:
straightspinebush2.jpg


xmas1.jpg
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Excellent looking knives! I like the upper one a lot. I think 4,5" blade is more than enough for a decent bushcraft knife, but sure for an all-around "survival knife" it could be a little longer too. I can definately see the puukko-style influence in the design. I particulary like that you've left the sides of the blade rough-looking, gives a nice touch.

The lower one would make a nice "civilized" hunting knife for smaller game. I also think my girlfriend might agree to carry that for a day hike, such a cute-looking knife :)
 
That shiny one was designed as a light weight extended backpacking knife. (not that I personally would be without my SAK and proobably a GB hatchet, too. But that's me)

I'm cleaning up the rough finishes a bit more - but not shiny. Just soaking a bit in vinegar after the final quenching heat and then adding patina back later. I do think that sort of finish tends to age well- some of my knives look better after use than they did before!
 
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koyote said:
That shiny one was designed as a light weight extended backpacking knife. (not that I personally would be without my SAK and proobably a GB hatchet, too. But that's me)

I'm cleaning up thr rough finishes a bit more - but not shiny. just soaking a bit longer in vinegar after the final quenching heat. I do think that sort of finish tends to age well- some of my knives look better after use than they did before!
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Yeah, good knives ofter do age well, and that's one of the reasons I like rough finishes. The other one is, that since the world is filled with factory-made soulless knives, it's nice that a part of a hand-made knife shows that the knife is indeed made by hand. Too perfect finish leaves an almost clinical feeling, not something that I want in my outdoors knife. And also on a mirror finish scratches and such look a lot worse than on a nice black carbon steel side. Of course roughness shouldn't be a reason in itself, but if a knife is otherwise carefully finished, a rough spot makes a nice contrast.

About the lower one, it does somehow remind me of a classic puukko, I think its the edge geometry. The curvy overall design adds an... sort of "lord of the rings elvish" -look to it, if such a poor analogy is allowed (I just watched the movies last week :o )
 
I had a friend who does SF conventions tell me it was the only knife he'd every seen that looked like a Real Fantasy Knife.
 
I'd pick my Nick Allen Sportsman(second from the top) in O1:
O1knives.jpg


and add a Cold Steel Bird and Trout or small mora for finer carving or small animals.

total a bit under 200.00 and outlast me.

2Door

Ferhman Peacemaker would be another good choice.
 
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lmalterna said:
I'd pick my Nick Allen Sportsman(second from the top) in O1:
O1knives.jpg


and add a Cold Steel Bird and Trout or small mora for finer carving or small animals.

total a bit under 200.00 and outlast me.

2Door

Ferhman Peacemaker would be another good choice.
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Dude that is a sweet collection!
 
Some sweet older school knives from Nick :thumbup: His Sportsman was the knife that I talked to him about merging with another handle, creating the forum knife. Really great design IMO.

Koyote, I love that top knife you posted too. Man that looks like a great backpacking knife.
 
The only knife I have in that category is a Becker BK7. I love it. I think it is pretty light for a knife that size, and I really like the blade geometry. They aren't in production anymore, but you can find them to and fro from time to time.

IMG_6989.JPG
 
If you've ever had to choke up your grip on a larger knife to do finer work like cape out an animal you would be very happy the choils was there. I have been in that situation many times. I don't always have a specialized knife with me only the one at hand and it is more versatile to be able to do that IMHO. :)

This is what I like to be able to do when needed

2578769192_77fec1ed22.jpg


This is another of my favorites but does not have a choil. Nick makes a great knife
6l2tl4y.jpg
 
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