What knife would you like to see next from CPK?

I would lean towards .188", however since we'll have that nice fuller there to drop some weight, I think .22 would be good.

The shiv and LC are so much lighter in hand than would be expected, so I think even at .22" thick, we won't have a blade that feels too heavy.

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xxwarderxx said:
I would lean towards .188", however since we'll have that nice fuller there to drop some weight, I think .22 would be good.

The shiv and LC are so much lighter in hand than would be expected, so I think even at .22" thick, we won't have a blade that feels too heavy.
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IMO the shiv feels lighter than it's .230 A2 or .220 3V would indicate because it's blade height.
 
one of CPK's greatest strengths is its machining capability, backed up by a genius level brain telling the machines exactly what to do, (this is why I'd work for Nate and Jo for free, if I could afford to!).

This also allows the adjustment of balance by way of strategically removing material, aka; fullers. CPK can make a thick survival knife that feels much lighter and more maneuverable than its spec would indicate.

Balance is the key to a well conceived finger choil...
 
Hard Knocks said:
Nate and Lorien, if I could throw some food for thought out there on the choil/no choil issue, respectfully, and as I say, just to contemplate.....

I have some blades with really well executed choils that I love. I have other blades with no choil, like your Field Knife, that are also just beautifully done and I wouldn't change a thing about. So I'm not necessarily pro-choil or anti-choil (nope, I'm equally hated by both sides!!!:p), but just like to see that when a choil is incorporated in the design, that it's the best choil it can be, so to speak.

On a blade that is choilless, it is very nice to be able to get a high solid choked-up grip for close-in work. It really helps to be able to wrap a thumb over the front edge of the scales to lock such a grip in if there is no choil on the blade. A thick scale in this area, that's designed for such a grip, really helps to execute it. A good example of this is the fiddleback production camp knife. I do not know if Mr. Roy designed the camp knife intentionally for that grip, but it is very good when held in that manner to do close-in work in the area of the blade that is commonly removed for choils. The micarta on the camp knife is a bit sharp without a little work by the end user, though, so I'm not sure that grip was planned. It works, however, and I like that blade choilless, a great knife.

On many blades that incorporate a choil, it seems to me that most are too small to be useful. The knives with the best choils I've had consistently done are from Swamprat. The choils on their big knives like the rat mastiff or M9 are large, rounded and comfortable. They also use a large finger guard that is nicely contoured and comfortable in grips both in and out of the choil. I feel safe when using those type of choils, they are comfortable and functional i.e. all benefit, no risk. I do not like choils that leave a chance that I'll be cut. Actually, that's being too nice, those types of choils, I hate the dang things and just wish they'd been totally left off.

This is just throwing out some thoughts if in fact there is still some question as to whether their will be a choil incorporated in the blade being discussed. And the examples given are put out there strictly as examples of what I see as a well-executed blade whether done with choil or without, not as maker A vs maker B, etc. Thanks for giving us a place to voice our thoughts.

Respectfully,

Dave
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A very well thought and constructive post [emoji106]



Don
 
JustinFournier said:
IMO the shiv feels lighter than it's .230 A2 or .220 3V would indicate because it's blade height.
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Yes. Good point. It all plays a part. Along with distal tapering, swedge, etc. Less metal.

Lorien said:
one of CPK's greatest strengths is its machining capability, backed up by a genius level brain telling the machines exactly what to do, (this is why I'd work for Nate and Jo for free, if I could afford to!).

This also allows the adjustment of balance by way of strategically removing material, aka; fullers. CPK can make a thick survival knife that feels much lighter and more maneuverable than its spec would indicate.

Balance is the key to a well conceived finger choil...
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Great point. Can have two blades identical weight, one being a great chopper and one being very fast in hand just by putting the weight in the right place for the intended goal.

I'm really excited for this already and I haven't even gotten my EDC yet! :D

I'd also really like to see what the CPK crew could do with a smaller "utility" kukri. Say 7.5-9.5" blade. That could be incredible.
 
6" blade, handle proportional to overall size with a bit more contouring (thicker palm swell, same Coke bottle form), no choil, perhaps a tad thicker than the Field Knife behind the edge. Distal taper? No distal taper? And sharp, clean grinds, no tumbling. 3V of course.
 
This is off topic of the 6 inch survival knife, so I apologize, but was curious if there were any pics floating around of the d2 skinner mentioned earlier.
 
Lorien said:
a sixish inch survival/camp knife will differ somewhat in every aspect, design-wise, from the FieldKnife.

There will be many similarities, but there will also be similarities with the LightChopper.

It will have a blade length of 6+ inches.
It will be thick and wide with a bevel profile somewhere between the FK and the LC.
It will have a fuller.
It will have a finger choil.
It will have a thumb ramp.
It will likely have two different lanyard mounting options.
It will have an adaptable sheath.
It might have one other very slightly interesting feature not worth discussing yet.

We are discussing the possibility of a Christmas release time for this new model. I'll start up a new thread when the right time manifests itself.
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This is going to be sweet.
 
I hate shaving, but I wouldn't mind a fixed straight razor blade. That would be another cool blade that one could use everyday
 
Someone needs to make a good raisin peeler.

And maybe a set of scrote-safe grooming shears. Nate, what brand is it that you said you were using...?


:D


I swear, your threads always get way too serious. No humor at all from a machinist...


Heheh.
 
I hear that Brazilians are all the rage these days
 
Heavy camp! 8 inch blade that is 2 inches wide and .250 thick with some belly toward the tip.
 
Maybe medium weight. 8 inch yes, but 1/4? That's to much metal to pack to elk Camp. And 3v does not need that thick in 8.

3/16 be my vote. No choil, and with a fuller for further weight savings. The LC chops great and so the 8" would serve another role

Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk
 
Brian77 said:
Maybe medium weight. 8 inch yes, but 1/4? That's to much metal to pack to elk Camp. And 3v does not need that thick in 8.

3/16 be my vote. No choil, and with a fuller for further weight savings. The LC chops great and so the 8" would serve another role

Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk
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Too much metal to pack? I can handle the additional 3oz. of steel to carry and swing.
 
shaving sharp said:
Heavy camp! 8 inch blade that is 2 inches wide and .250 thick with some belly toward the tip.
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+1 if it has a full flat grind and distal taper through the blade and tang to keep the heft down overall, and put the meat where it's useful.

Or 0.1875 thick in a saber grind (with or without a fuller and a lighter distal taper).

But wide (as in tall, not thick) blade for sure — I'm getting pretty keen on wiiiider blades.
 
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