What knives to take for bushcraft course

TLM, They are not best choice, but market here is pritty closed, so we don't have anything much better. They are sold for 20-25 euros, which is about right entry level price, and they are a step up from the Frost Mora.. Thats the reason I recomend them, in country where average sallary is below 200 euros it is hard to recomend something more expensive.

B.
 
BR, I understand the price issue very well, from their models I have seen some look "not too bad" if the quality is right.

TLM
 
Bogdan Ristivojevic said:
TLM, They are not best choice, but market here is pritty closed, so we don't have anything much better. They are sold for 20-25 euros, which is about right entry level price, and they are a step up from the Frost Mora.. Thats the reason I recomend them, in country where average sallary is below 200 euros it is hard to recomend something more expensive.

B.

Another (favorable) review: www.bushcraftuk.com/content/articles.php?action=show&showarticle=14
 
Bogdan Ristivojevic said:
It is amazing how efficiency of Scandy bevel is lost when there is secondary bevel, no matter how small it is.

This isn't specific to the puukko grind, all primary grinds are very dependent on the edge geometry for the knife to cut well, for a lot of media the edge can be more critical than the primary grind and even blade stock.

Suprisingly I discovered that light axe with long handle is physicaly less demanding than big knife, and much more safe.

Body types and experience are a big factor, around here a hammer is a common childs toy, at around two years old it isn't uncommon to give kids a real hammer to drive nails in a stump. It isn't much long after that before they start with a small hatchet
[*].

You grow up using these tools and thus using a long knife matches the same muscle groups. In contrast an axe draws more on the back and hips, the technique is also a lot more complicated, especially with two handed axes.

Generaly Fallknivens are optimized for use by nionskilled users ...

Different doesn't mean unskilled, Peter appreciates strength in his knives and has developed techniques for working with that attribute. Different enviroments also dicate different tools. For example Chris Janowsky has spoken strongly about Busse knives for wilderness survival and describes a very different knife than a puukko :

"The fixed blade survival knife must be a workhorse, born for abuse. In a true wilderness survival situation, it will have to chop like a ax and dig like a shovel."

Different people have different goals, influenced by enviroment, their experience and their body type. If you are 6'4" and 240 lbs, then you can do things that someone 5'6" and 140 lbs can not, thus you would not expect them to carry identical blades. Knives are no different than any other tools in that respect, you have to consider the user.

In general for wood working, as with anything esel, you choose what works best for you. Someone who is very large and strong will carry a much heavier axe, there is discusion of this in "The axe book" by Cook for example, both the handle and head size and weight need to be adapted to the user, similar with saws, and for most modern felling, chainsaws.

Plus it isn't like puukkos are optomized for light cutting, I have knives which are far thinner and will cut much better, thus can I refer to all puukko owners as unskilled? Some Fallknivens have very thin cross sections as well, the U2 for example is much thinner than any puukko.

[regrind the blade to a full grind]

...it is above skill level of usual user.

Yes, my point was not to do this, but to buy the other style of blade in the first place. The puuko style design works well for inexpensive knives, but when you start paying a lot for them it ceases to make sense considering what you could get for the same price.

Full flat grounding on puukkos remove a lott of material, and thin stocked ones become too bendable and easy to break.

In regards to prying strength the puukko grind is really inefficient, a full ground blade on thicker stock will be stronger and cut better because strength isn't linear with thickness and thus even small stock increases make dramatic results.

Thus moving up to a slightly thicker steel and a full grind gives better cutting ability, more strength and much better ease of sharpening. Of course in regards to price there are not a lot of blades like this for prices similar to puukkos.

-Cliff
[*] more a generation ago than now of course, now its video games more than hammers and axes
 
Had the course this weekend. Had a great time! Since it was an introduction course, there wasn't much knife action. Things we did/practiced were firemaking (firesteel & drill methods), making/finding tinder, cooking, shelter building, tracking, plants, traps etc.
I brought my F1 and was glad I picked that. Only one other guy had a similair size knife which he made himself. The rest carried Opinels/SAK's and most bought the Mora during the course.

The instructor was good. Easy going and very skilled. I'll probably gonna take some of his other courses.

oh, he and his female partner both carried well used original Woodlores ;) (R. Mears/A. Wood)
 
because strength isn't linear with thickness and thus even small stock increases make dramatic results.

Speaking of bending strength in the natural direction for identically shaped cross sections it is proportional to the second power of the thickness. Comparing different sections is more complicated and general rules are (as usually) misleading.

TLM
 
so what do you think would be a good knife for the course? as we have had a spirited debate over the best knife over the past few weeks, i would like to hear from you what would be the most appropriate blade for this school would be.

alex
 
don't really know if you're asking me or TLM, but I think the F1 is the best one. I did put a new 30 degr. edge on it and it worked perfect. Stayed sharp throughout the course. The tip is still fine enough to drill out a hole for a fire bow & drill. I also prefer stainless instead of carbon. One guy had a selfmade O1 knife (bead-blasted) and had rust on it before the course started.
Also, the spine of an F1 throws MUCH more sparks from a firesteel then a Mora or the steel that comes with the firesteel (or even the Woodlore).
A lot of guys had trouble starting their fires while the F1 threw so much thick sparks that the tinder ignited in a only 2-3 strikes.
At the end of the course I did some wood carving but found that the grip on the F1 can be a bit thicker for more comfort. I'll probably get a bare F1 blade and put wooden handles on it myself. I saw no need for a smaller or larger blade. For larger work I brought my folding saw (Bahco Laplander), and if I'm more skilled I'll probably get a nice axe.
 
TLM said:
Speaking of bending strength in the natural direction for identically shaped cross sections it is proportional to the second power of the thickness.

It depends on the shape, essentially you have to calculate the second area moment which is an integral to the second power of thickness so it generally ends up being cubic in thickness. Physics by Benedek has a nice discussion of this along with many other similar elements such as deflection under loads and internal torque strain.

Comparing different sections is more complicated and general rules are (as usually) misleading.

The moments for the knife shapes in the above are fairly simply poly integrals, you could do them with AP high school math. A low grind puukko has 1/4 the strength of a full flat grind of the same weight.

-Cliff
 
It depends on the shape, essentially you have to calculate the second area moment which is an integral to the second power of thickness so it generally ends up being cubic in thickness.

Sorry, conclusion wrong, stiffness cubic, strength quadratic.

I do this for living.

The moments for the knife shapes in the above are fairly simply poly integrals, you could do them with AP high school math.

If moment of inertia were the only thing, this would hold, in "compact" shapes it does with more complicated sections nowhere near.

TLM
 
Hi John J :D .

Just my pennies worth, but why don't you listen to the instructor?

Take his advice and just use a Mora. It really is all you will need.

At the end of the day, let's put what you are doing in perspective. You are going on a course to learn a little Bushcraft. The idea of Bushcraft is surely to learn to live with nature and make yourself comfortable, not to fight against it tooth and nail.

Why carry so much steel when a little 4" fixed blade is all you "really"need.

Don't get me wrong. The knives you picture are beatiful and I wish I owned them but as you have said. You would hate to lose one. So don't take them ad do with the minimum.

All the best,

Tony

P.S. Remember "Do not judge yourself in life by how much you posses. Judge yourself in life by how much you can do without".
 
TLM said:
If moment of inertia were the only thing...

It has nothing to do with the moment of inertia, that moment is used for rotation acceleration/momentum/etc. and is a completely different integral which is over a mass element the moment for bending is over a length element. The deflection of a beam loaded at one end is inversely proportionally to the bending moment noted in the above so it directly measures strength.

-Cliff
 
I had a moment of inertia once but I caught myself and didn't land on my face. After that I was more careful :p
 
It has nothing to do with the moment of inertia

Oh yes it does, what you drop out is "mass", it is mass moment of inertia, I am speaking about "area" moment of inertia. English terminology is very imprecise here , you should look up what builders call it!

The deflection of a beam loaded at one end is inversely proportionally to the bending moment noted in the above so it directly measures strength.

For a cantilever beam load at the end, bending moment is the force multiplied by the length of the beamand the end deflection is DIRECTLY proportional to that and INVERSELY proportional to the "second moment of inertia of area". Just that the end deflection has very little to do with strength.

Strength is DIRECTLY proportional to the bending moment and INVERSELY proportional to that same moment DIVIDED by the distance from the neutral axis to the farthest edge.

Stiffness and strength are totally different concepts. It is not difficult to create cross sections with the same stiffness and strengths differing by a factor of five.

TLM
 
Er what forum am I in?

Wilderness and Survival?

Knife Forum?

or... Physics for Geeks :D

I'm very, very confused
 
TonyC said:
Er what forum am I in?

Wilderness and Survival?

Knife Forum?

or... Physics for Geeks :D

I'm very, very confused

Just remember this formula: "the angle of the dangle is equivalent to the rectum as a hole..." :eek: Sheesh, that was from grade school....

Okay, you physicists, TLM and Cliff -- this is a forum on PRACTICAL wilderness skills. Nobody should have to learn physics and its jargon here, so if you want to intellectuallize and discuss the physics of a knife, please start your own forum or take it to email. Cliff, do not hijack anymore thread in this forum, please, or you will no longer be welcome here. I disagree with many things you write, but sometimes you do also offer great insights on knives.

Let's all keep the threads on track. This is NOT up for discussion or rebuttal.

Thanks,

Brian.
 
TonyC said:
Hi John J :D .
Just my pennies worth, but why don't you listen to the instructor?
Take his advice and just use a Mora. It really is all you will need.

John J - LOL ;) - Well, he suggest the Mora to people that don't have a knife yet. What he suggests is a 'good solid sharp' knife. And since I don't have a Mora, but do have a very fine Fallkniven F1, which is also very popular for bushcraft on many forums, I decided to bring that.

At the end of the day, let's put what you are doing in perspective. You are going on a course to learn a little Bushcraft. The idea of Bushcraft is surely to learn to live with nature and make yourself comfortable, not to fight against it tooth and nail.

That was exactly my idea - I was just curious what would be the best knife for the job. Turned out that the Neil Roberts would have been to big.

Why carry so much steel when a little 4" fixed blade is all you "really"need.

Well, took the 'little' Fallkniven F1 4" fixed blade and that was indeed all I needed.

Don't get me wrong. The knives you picture are beatiful and I wish I owned them but as you have said. You would hate to lose one. So don't take them ad do with the minimum.

All the best,

Tony

Thanks Tony - In summary, I think the Fallkniven F1 is a better knife for the job then a Mora. I handled a couple of the Mora's that the other guys bought and feel more confident in the F1. As I wrote, the instructor carried a WoodLore so he surely appreciates a fine and simple knife. I'm sure one of the reasons that he's suggesting the Mora's is because EUR 20 is already a lot of money for a knife in Holland.

TonyC said:
P.S. Remember "Do not judge yourself in life by how much you posses. Judge yourself in life by how much you can do without".

That was one of my motivations to take the course, to find out which stuff that I have I don't really need when hiking/camping/bushcrafting.
 
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