What Makes a Good, Traditional Barlow?

leatherworker said:
This thread keeps getting better and better!

I'm been enjoying this Soup the last few days. Thanks Charlie! :)

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What Duane said!
Nice portrait, Leatherworker!!
 
jon_slider said:
Very nice mongrel :-). Love the stag.

Here is its country cousin

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That is a very nice Remington. I would like to find one like that but they seem to be rare. I have a nice Russell but the Remington that I started with was like yours if you ground the blades away, broke a spring, and ran over it with the truck. The bolsters were good though. I have a busted Russell with good bolsters that I might make a 2 bladed Barlow out of when I get time.
 
Dr. Scott said:
That's what has caused me to invest almost $500 (don't tell my wife) in these beautiful Charlows.
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How does one spend $500 and the wife not know?
You could probably make that much and more just selling the secret.
 
genewiseman said:
That is a very nice Remington. ... the Remington that I started with was like yours if you ground the blades away, broke a spring, and ran over it with the truck. The bolsters were good though.
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I literally laughed out loud when I read that. Theres a Truck stamped version of a Remi on the bay right now. I was very lucky to get mine, even though it has blade wobble. I really like the slightly shorter frame compared to the Russell, and the TC Barlows. Curiously, the Remi and the TC 2 blade sheep weigh exactly the same 72 grams. The Russell is heavier, 79gm, and thicker, which actually makes it really nice in hand too..

thanks for sharing your work Gene, I look forward to your 2 blade.. theres currently a buzz in town about a pair of full size blades, a trapper barlow.. blade selection is still up for grabs.. spey and clip, spear and Sheep, or god forbid a wharnie spey combo.. and so on :-)

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the above pic is not mine, reposting pics is the sincerest form of flattery <g>

Bone handles make a good traditional Barlow
a pic (of my own knives) in every post, I believe the Remington was made during American Alcohol Prohibition, it has the second round stamp above with USA on the main, and the first round stamp above on the pen:

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Cool pic, Jack!!
Looks like a GEC art label choice!!;)
 
I like the way you always address the OP, Jon!
Keeps us all on track!! Including Mr. Tangent (me!)!
 
waynorth said:
Cool pic, Jack!!
Looks like a GEC art label choice!!;)
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Thanks Charlie, one for the Little People! :D The lightings not good in my kitchen unfortunately, but that's a grindstone in use at the Abbeydale Industrial Hamlet :)
 
Ok, I have a question.
I've been breaking in my spear point charlow through various cutting tasks and everday carry. It's working well on the blades, and the patina is coming along nicely. But I've noticed that there are rust spots on the steel bolsters and the channel where the blade rest when closed.
My question: what can I do to prevent this? I'm using this knife for everything, including food prep, so whatever I do needs to be food safe.
Thanks.
John
 
street soldier said:
Ok, I have a question.
I've been breaking in my spear point charlow through various cutting tasks and everday carry. It's working well on the blades, and the patina is coming along nicely. But I've noticed that there are rust spots on the steel bolsters and the channel where the blade rest when closed.
My question: what can I do to prevent this? I'm using this knife for everything, including food prep, so whatever I do needs to be food safe.
Thanks.
John
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First go to the right forum (Forum: Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment; Your how-to area for discussion on sharpeners, rust prevention, alteration & more.) Then use the search box to get specific about your question.

Me, I use a lot of food-grade mineral oil from the local pharmacy (the kind used as a laxative by some). I clean my blades with a moist cloth, dry, and apply the mineral oil liberally to protect against rust. Sometimes do it every day, letting a little dribble into the joints too.

I'm a Charlow addict too. I keep a clip in one pocket and a sheepfoot in another pocket, and I use them every chance I get.
 
Dr. Scott said:
First go to the right forum (Forum: Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment; Your how-to area for discussion on sharpeners, rust prevention, alteration & more.) Then use the search box to get specific about your question.

Me, I use a lot of food-grade mineral oil from the local pharmacy (the kind used as a laxative by some). I clean my blades with a moist cloth, dry, and apply the mineral oil liberally to protect against rust. Sometimes do it every day, letting a little dribble into the joints too.

I'm a Charlow addict too. I keep a clip in one pocket and a sheepfoot in another pocket, and I use them every chance I get.
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You're smart. It's like having a double holster gun belt. :D
 
street soldier said:
Ok, I have a question.
I've been breaking in my spear point charlow through various cutting tasks and everday carry. It's working well on the blades, and the patina is coming along nicely. But I've noticed that there are rust spots on the steel bolsters and the channel where the blade rest when closed.
My question: what can I do to prevent this? I'm using this knife for everything, including food prep, so whatever I do needs to be food safe.
Thanks.
John
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0000 extra fine steel wool goes a long way in removing small rust spots. I took a toothpick and a small wad of fine steel wool to the inside of the liners of my father's single blade spearpoint charlow, and the rust was gone within seconds. Just be careful to not rub it on the covers (especially if they are wood covers). When you have removed all the rust, wash the knife, dry, add oil to the blade, joints, and liners and then wipe down with a cloth or paper towel.
 
burnside said:
0000 extra fine steel wool goes a long way in removing small rust spots. I took a toothpick and a small wad of fine steel wool to the inside of the liners of my father's single blade spearpoint charlow, and the rust was gone within seconds. Just be careful to not rub it on the covers (especially if they are wood covers). When you have removed all the rust, wash the knife, dry, add oil to the blade, joints, and liners and then wipe down with a cloth or paper towel.
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Thanks. I'll try this.

John
 
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