What should I name these designs?

If you outsourced production to China and got the retail price down to just a few bucks, I bet these would sell like hotcakes from the knife case by the counter at gas stations and corner stores. A package deal at ten bucks with a lead-tainted brass knuckles "paperweight" would be a steal.
 
KCDesigns said:
Why would you design a knife to not be functional. It's a knife. I'm not sure what you're trying to say. And yes I've used knives before, use one everyday.
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Know this... i am NOT hating on your designs... If your blade stock is going to be as thick as it appears on the tanto scandi ground knife then it makes one wonder what the use of the knife would be. That low scandi on a 1/4 inch or 3/16 inch thick blade wouldnt cut rigid materials, such as cardboard, very well . Now if it was tanto/scandi and say .125" thick or thinner it would be a more efficient cutter, but as shown it would be good as probably a stabber/pryer/scraper/chisel.
 
K.O.D. said:
I concur. Blade height to handle height is weird, as are the grind angles. There is too much space between the sharpened edge and the handle as well.

Definitely not something I would buy, whether it's $500 or $50.

For me, egonomics are far more important than looks. Hopefully the maker/company you are working with will smooth out some of these issues I see.

Best of luck regardless.

Sent via pony express
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Understandable, however my designs are not made for your liking unfortunately. Thanks for your words opinions. Im only 19, I have plenty of years to continue to further develop my ideas and creations.
 
philllll said:
If you outsourced production to China and got the retail price down to just a few bucks, I bet these would sell like hotcakes from the knife case by the counter at gas stations and corner stores. A package deal at ten bucks with a lead-tainted brass knuckles "paperweight" would be a steal.
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No thanks.
 
Riz! said:
Know this... i am NOT hating on your designs... If your blade stock is going to be as thick as it appears on the tanto scandi ground knife then it makes one wonder what the use of the knife would be. That low scandi on a 1/4 inch or 3/16 inch thick blade wouldnt cut rigid materials, such as cardboard, very well . Now if it was tanto/scandi and say .125" thick or thinner it would be a more efficient cutter, but as shown it would be good as probably a stabber/pryer/scraper/chisel.
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I gotcha, no worries I love opinions whether they are good or bad. They just help me get a better idea of how I should go about things. I'm only 19 so I have a few more things to learn about knives and knife making. All the input is appreciated. As far as blade thickness, all that can be adjusted very easily in the program before anything has done. Prototypes will be 3D printed to this month to help me get a better understanding and feel of the design in hand.
 
no probs
if I had the capability to do what you're doing when I was 19, I'd be helluva lot better now, that's fo sho!
 
Lorien said:
no probs
if I had the capability to do what you're doing when I was 19, I'd be helluva lot better now, that's fo sho!
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Heard that! I've been using Autocad Civil 3d for work to do some of my engineering for my job and found out with a student account I had access to Fusion 360 so I've been self teaching how to use it and get better at it for a little over a year now. I'm progressing a lot. If I can find my first ever design on my computer I'll share with you guys to show a comparison.
 
KCDesigns said:
Just a few of my favorites are made by the following,

Tony Marfione
Todd Begg
DSK Tactical
CKF (Custom Knife Factory)
Thierry Savidan
Brr Knives
Dustin Turpin
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I can see an aesthetic resemblance, especially with handles. I think you should put more time into looking at blade geometry, at this stage.
Take another look at Savidan's creations. Try to see past the side view, or isometric, & get an idea of 3D shape.
When drawing, use the program to review the shapes in different cross sections, rather than just making isometrics & colouring.
 
It really looks as if you are designing for looks or "cool factor" and not practicality or comfort. I suggest first try designing a knife for the local maintenance mechanic at the local rental property. When you make one that can last, is useful enough and he can afford then begin to add on the design features you like. If you retain your customers and you get return business then maybe think about mass production . Do a few days labor with him and see what you like and don't like.

joe
 
Personally, I think that at least the bottom two designs will do fine. Like he said about the top one, adjustments for better cutting performance can be made if necessary.
 
7MWoQ16 said:
Personally, I think that at least the bottom two designs will do fine. Like he said about the top one, adjustments for better cutting performance can be made if necessary.
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Thank you! And yes I know the blade need to be fix a bit. I haven't quite figured out the best way to design the blade using Fusion but I'm figuring it out little by little. Thanks for the input nonetheless
 
About the ABS Journeyman Smith Testing:

"Please don't anticipate "wowing" the judges with something completely out of the ordinary. With the quality of the judges employed (Dean, Dunn, Keeslar, Fisk, etc.) it is highly doubtful that you will accomplish this. Your knives need not be ornate; they must be well-conceived and executed. The best bet is to stick with traditional or established designs...remember, this is only a test and a one-time requirement. You are free to carry on as you will, once the test is finished."

http://www.americanbladesmith.com/index.php?section=pages&id=172
 
"Design is not just what it looks like and feels like. Design is how it works." - Steve Jobs
 
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