What specs are major turn-offs?

3Cr13Mov

 

Chisel Grinds on knives I wish didn't have them. Certain low grade steels, spring assist on some knives that I feel don't need it. Holes in the blade, like those new DDR knives.

 

Certain spring assisted knives have really caught my attention, but I never bought one just for that reason. Don't get me wrong, I have quite a few knives with that type of mechanism, I just don't need any more. If they made a legitimate manual Leek/Chive, I'd own a dozen. While you can deassiste them, it really ruins it for me. Plain ol' bronze washers and a thumb stud/flipper tab and I'd be happy.

 

China and tip down, I'll own neither

 

There are always exceptions, but these are some major turn-offs for me:
- Handle that only permits you to comfortably grip it one specific way
- Chisel grind
- Liner or frame lock (though this is not a hard & fast rule for me)
- Thickness of blade being disproportionate to its length (e.g., a 3" or less blade with 1/4" thickness)
- Shallow scandi grind
- Partially serrated edge
- Recurve edge - unless it is a large, purpose built chopper/cutter (bolo, kukri, etc.)
- Excessive branding (e.g., SOG plasters its logo all over some of its models)

 

Assisted opening which is kind of strange since I carried a Kershaw Leek for a couple years.

Also dislike serrated blades and chisel grinds

I think with a few exceptions that fixed blades need leather sheaths. Cold Steel is a major offender as is Kabar. I really wanted a BK16 until I saw the sheath it came with. I'll give makers like ESEE a pass on their sheaths but still not what I would prefer.

 

spine thickness that exceeds 0.140". Okay for many; but not for casual use.

 

Recurves
Combo-Edges (half serrated/half PE)
Tanto Point
Nightmare Grind/mult. edge grinds
Steel that has less edge holding than VG-10/154cm
Short thick grinds (short saber or hollow grind)
Blades that are too tall/wide
Knives with poor blade/handle ratio
Aluminum handles/slick polished handles
Choils taking up space on blades that should be sharpened (if I have a 3.5" blade and 5" handle I don't need .5" more cutting edge to be sacrificed for even more handle)
I don't like tip down (but I do have several Spyderco Military knives and like them besides that)
Assisted opening (applies to thumbstud/hole knives, they're okay for flipper knives)
Zombie/ninja/survivor marketing logos/paint all over the knife

 

Two different scale materials, I like symmetry on handles same on both sides. For instance Titanium one scale the other g10 with no liner. Oh yeah and ugly chisel grind, even though they doncut well it’s like it pulls to a side!

 

I have my exceptions but mostly weight. If it’s over 6 oz I usually move on

 

serrations for me

 

You beat me to it. Couple that with a thicker grind like a saber grind and it completely ruins a knife for me.

 

Flippers , chisel grinds , any kind of plastic handle and carbon steel blades are all deal breakers for me.

 

"Made in China"

 

-Chiselgrinds. If I need a chisel, I'll use a chisel.

-Steels that are worse than 8CR13MOV, and even then it needs to have a funky design. So I've got a lot of CRKTs.

-half serrated blades

 

Flippers and assisted opening.

 

• 
  Support BladeForums!
  Paid memberships don't see ads!

1. Anything Zombie/tactical/ninja
2. A hole in the blade
3. Finger choil on blade
4. Steel lower than AUS-8
5. Blade stock in a folder over .115
6. Handles that force a certain grip
7. Saber grind on any blade
8. Partially serrated edge
9. Recurve edge
10. Flippers
    
11. Assisted opening, I did make an exception for the Benchmade 490, weak enough spring to open two handed
12. Tonto
13. A scale on only one side
14. Thumb studs so far forward they get in the way of sharpening or cutting.
15. Overly textured pocket eating grips
    
16. A hole in the blade
17. Finger choil on blade
18. Anything Zombie/tactical/ninja