What Survival Knife should I get?

You oil your blade... and i can pretty much promise you that a Becker will never rust enough to impair your ability to use it in a survival situation

Carbon steel is superior in virtually every important category.

There's a reason why the vast majority of custom knives are made of some form of carbon steel

Yup, if you take care of your gear, it takes care of you. I have ever only had my BK14 rust on me once because we got hit with snow (and then it melted) in Arizona on my last backpacking trip. My gear and I were soaked for a while before we could get dry and a couple tiny spots appeared the next day (one cold night!!!! :eek:). I took some 2000 grit paper from my sharpening kit and took it right off - no problem.

With that said, I have never had any other problems ever with my knives. I just oil them up every once in a while and I'm ready to go! Plus, patina's really help with corrosion resistance too...
 
Yup, if you take care of your gear, it takes care of you. I have ever only had my BK14 rust on me once because we got hit with snow (and then it melted) in Arizona on my last backpacking trip. My gear and I were soaked for a while before we could get dry and a couple tiny spots appeared the next day (one cold night!!!! :eek:). I took some 2000 grit paper from my sharpening kit and took it right off - no problem.

With that said, I have never had any other problems ever with my knives. I just oil them up every once in a while and I'm ready to go! Plus, patina's really help with corrosion resistance too...

How regularly do you oil the knife?
 
ESEE 4, Bark River Bravo 1 or Fallkniven F1, or A1 if chopping is absolutely necessary. Spears are unrealistic and 'hammer butts' can easily be substituted with a rock/baton. Just MHO.
 
when you are not actively using it, it should be oiled for storage

if you have a kydex sheath knife or a sheath with a plastic liner, you can heavily oil your blade, then sheath it

then all you have to do is wipe it down and put it in the sheath... it doesn't take much oil.
 
Mostly it is neglect that rusts carbon steel blades. For anything other than salt water use, they're perfectly fine.

I LIGHTLY oil mine when I am not going to be using them for a long time, especially if they are stripped. If you go out and they get wet with you, when you get back home, just clean them off and wipe them down with a slightly oily rag and everything will be just fine.

Heck, I think that MOST of the Beckers in the Becker Subforum are stripped, and I think I've heard one reference to one even STARTING to rust, and we have people from all over the world in there.

Good luck with whatever you do :).
 
-1095 steel <-never had problem with rust I live in a colorado.
-5 inch blade give or take <- great size for bushcraft. not to long/heavy not to short.
-full tang

these three specs will do 98 percent of all your camping chores. I am a fan of the becker/rat line, they are good cheap/quality knives that if you chip or loss you will not cry a river.
 
To me, the two ultimate survival knives are the full size Bear Grylls Gerber knife and the Vic Soldier:

The Bear Grylls one comes with some useful stuff. The sheath has a diamond sharpener integrated. It includes a Priorities of Survival pamphlet, and a fire starter. Whistle lanyard. The only thing missing to me is a sawback spine or a wire saw. But it is a $50 knife, and nearly perfect.

The other is the Vic Soldier. No fire starter or anything, but nice and compact, with a KILLER saw, locking screwdriver. Just lots of good outdoor tools, and a nice grippy shape.

It sounds like you're after some exotic high-dollar fixed blade knife. I can't help you there.
 
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Bear Grylls knife doesn't have a full tang, and the steel is mediocre at best (Sandvic 12C27)... the Rc hardness is listed as 57+/-2

that means that it has the potential to have very low edge retention.

seriously, why do people fall for these gimmick knives? Survival knives don't need screwdrivers or hammers... then need high quality steel with good edge retention and solid construction...

You can always put a multi-tool in the sheath along with a fire starter and a small wire saw... again, as i have mentioned before BUY A KNIFE, not a tool chest with a blade
 
-1095 steel <-never had problem with rust I live in a colorado.
-5 inch blade give or take <- great size for bushcraft. not to long/heavy not to short.
-full tang

these three specs will do 98 percent of all your camping chores. I am a fan of the becker/rat line, they are good cheap/quality knives that if you chip or loss you will not cry a river.

+1 :thumbup:, but I would use the word 'inexpensive' rather than 'cheap' :D
 
Matt... I have to agree with the other post on this page....any of the knives listed on this page will fit the bill. Esee, Ontario, Fallkniven, or Becker all are perfectly suited for survival. If you're looking for something with less maintenance check out Entrek knives... they're made from 440c stainless steel
 
Actually, if stain/rust resistance is important to you, find yourself a 10" D2 steel

My personal recommendation is the Kershaw Outcast... it's 10", comes with a nice sheath, and is INCREDIBLY durable....

d2 steel is also very rust resistant, and extremely good at holding an edge
 
MattBlade,

Since you live where rust is a bigger than average concern, consider Busse INFI. It combines the advantages of a good carbon steel—very tough, holds a good edge, stands up to most anything—with a reluctance to rust. The disadvantages are A: no included sheath and B: they don’t come cheap.

The only model current available that might suit you is the seven inch long Sarge-7 at the Busse Company Store. That runs for $450.00 with an optional $50.00 kydex sheath.

If you search the exchange you can probably get something closer to your desire. Some knives on the exchange will come with a sheath.

There are many suitable models to search for. But for example, from Busse the six inch Satin Jack, the five inch Badger Attack TAC, or the four inch Meaner Streets would suit me.

From Scrap Yard—both with Res-C grips—the five inch Scrapper 5 LE or the four inch Street Scrapper 4 are great knives at (for Busse) bargain prices.
 
That is amazing!! Did you do it yourself? And if so, what did you use to get that awesome mirror polish?

Yep, did it myself. Used a handheld dual action sander from 320, 600, 1000, 1500, 2500 grit sandpaper and finished off with a hand polish of Simichrome and a soft cloth. It was a fair amount of work, but it's shiny! :D
 
Yep, did it myself. Used a handheld dual action sander from 320, 600, 1000, 1500, 2500 grit sandpaper and finished off with a hand polish of Simichrome and a soft cloth. It was a fair amount of work, but it's shiny! :D

Well, it certainly paid off! That is an absolutely beautiful finish
 
I will definitely agree with the INFI comment.. in my opinion, if you have the money, it's the best out there.
 
Yep nothing wrong with that. Almost the same thing as a BK2.
A knife that fits you OP well would be the Tops Marine combat.
 
BK&T
ESSE
OKC Ranger RD-? "Ready Deployment" series.


Seriously, any blade from the above will outlast you.
 
Ok I have the BK2 and Had the Seal Pup Elite. Seal Pup had a rock hard handle...absolutely hated it. It was slick and didnt eat up any vibration. The sheath was just ok. I didnt mind AUS8A but there are better. Knife was light and I like that size but there are far and away better! I think I would put this money aside and save it up for something better.

BK2 like it but it is so thick...blade is .25" thick! It is also heavy and I dislike the slick hard plastic handle. Wet hand, cold, shock...no! I am planning on getting some micarta scales. Sheath is nice but this knife is too thick to be well round...trust me I tried and I have had much better success with other. It is still one of my favorites but it isnt as well rounded. It is a tank but like a tank it isnt good every where.

For me a survival knife needs to be around 5" and no more than 6". Dont buy a zombie chopper either, I did and I never use it. I tried and I was soo disappointed! I can see to collect or to have one of but they are extremely one dimensional. Your not gonna prep food with it...even Fred Flintstone doesnt! They are big and heavy and not stealthy! They are extremely limited. You can baton just fine with a 5-6" blade...survival isnt a contest its about being smart! And some other advice, just because a knife can chop up cinder blocks doesnt mean you should do it nor punch holes in steel...I hate these test for they are not practical even in urban survival situation you would be foolish to dull or nearly destroy the edge of your knife on steel or concrete. If you are smart you will find other means if your situation requires you to break concrete or cut steel! I like noss but I know no one that even in a survival situation will risk their knife, you will find other means. But back to your requirements, Partial Serration...that is a preference one I can see some use for. I do like serration for something, cutting vines, rope, webbing, etc are a lot easier. I myself only have one or two blades that are part serrated. They get use! Stainless I like for if I am in the wet it is nice not to worry. Easy to sharpen depends on the edge and the steel. 1095 is easy to sharpen where as M4...oh boy...no! Hole...think about this ramboo...the gerber LMF II will suit this need but it is just an alright knife. Hammer...for tents stakes or something...my advice use a small log or even a rock it will be easier and you wont hurt your hand trying to use a small surface, more over you wont beat up your handle even break it! Once again survival is about being smart! The knife you are looking for is out there but is a jack of all trades and a master of none!! You are describing the Gerber LMF II. I have had one and didnt mind it but there were better out there. The sheath is big, sharpener was barely functional! Hammer on the pommel is meant for very light use...it will break. The 440C is fair at best! And it has holes all over it to put some 550 and tie it to a stick...once again there are far smarter things to do then throw your knife!! Especially if it is the only thing you have left. Leave that to Stallone. It works in the movies but not so great in real life! The LMF II is cheap so if you want to get it and beat it up go for it! But my suggestion is read up more get something practical. Guys like bear, Cody, Dave C dont carry very big blades in their survival situations. They do well with them and dont run into issues.

If I would recommend a blade to you I would get a fallkniven S1. It is stainless, convex grind, full tang, minimalist sheath, great grip even when wet and it eats up the shock. I have an ESEE 4, (had a 5) 6, and a Junglas, Fallkniven F1, S1, A1, BK2, BK7, Bravo 1, Nighthawk, and more. Knives I use to have where the SOG Seal Pup Elite, LMFII, Seal 2000, and more. My go to has been the S1. It is the perfect size for me. I find this size a balance. It wont do everything but its size is a sweet spot for the more common practical uses. I love it...it is over 100 bucks but I would have saved a ton of money and time if I had simply gotten an S1 and A1 in the beginning. I do love my ESEE 4 and 6 they are up there and the warranty..awesome. Every knife I have has been on one trip or another. They have all batoned, prepped food, minimum chopping (I have a Sven Saw and Trailblazer...I dont like to chop...too much energy and very inefficient...once again being smart). the S1 is a little thick for cleaning fish but it does work! I love the sheath (initially hated it) its small lightweight size is a plus, knife stays in and I wind 550 around it. Because it is small it can also be stealthy! One suggestion...the black blade will look like crap after one outting. Get the satin...I know it but you will thank me later...black doesnt stick to VG-10...a stainless steel well at all. ESEE 1095 black blades totally different story! Black is baked on and will stay on for a while! Back to the S1, I can touch it up with a mouse pad and some sand paper. It is a very good VG-10 stainless. I have not chipped any of them (Fallknivens) and they have taken a beating (more than all my other knives put together that is how much I like them!! It has been great for shelter building which takes a lot longer than you think!!! Take your time and be smart think of what you want to do with the knife and go from there. You described a survival knife so I gave you my take and experience. Good luck and I hope this helped!
 
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