What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

[jfk1110]

I'm finally happy with the shape and finish of the knife. I'm still experimenting a little with the handle finishing process. Now I'm going to make 12 of these for my Christmas presents...

Sweet design and results....

View attachment 3247819
“Mako” I started grinding on this evening. It’s abt ready for heat treat.

Great lines..

 

[Tony Mont]

Been on vacations and not done much in the shop lately.
I had some time and squared up some plunge lines as a start. I'm pretty pleased with the end result (as a reference size, the edge is 10 thousands thick). The square plunge lines have been my go to way lately and the more I do them, the more I like them.

Also, I fit a guard Bob Loveless style from the front. I definitely need to practice this technique more, it was a real pain to get it gap free (I wanted a gap free fit without using solder)

 

[Lorien]

handle is profiled, need to figure out the 3D stuff next

 

[Nate’s Knives]

Went to an estate sale today and picked up a ridgid drum sander for $150. Can’t wait to use it when shaping my handles.

 

[SBuzek]

Big Ole folding hunter camel bone and CPM154

 

[Tony Mont]

handle is profiled, need to figure out the 3D stuff next

That's looking good!
Add more parallel and square lines on the profile+sides and it will come nicely by following the grid pattern (as long as you have a point of reference ie:flat and parallel ricasso, you can add the lines at any point of shaping)

 

[jfk1110]

Big Ole folding hunter camel bone and CPM154
View attachment 3249262

Fine job sir..

 

[dmcmd]

Started the day cutting up my AEB-L.

Then I drilled 1/2" holes for the finger choils.

Then I traced my template to cut rough profiles on the bandsaw.

Here's the rough profiles:

Here they are after I ground them down to the correct profiles on the belt grinder:

Then I drilled the handle pin holes and flattened them as best I could.

I ran out of stainless foil. I only got 9 wrapped. I'll get some heat treating done tomorrow.

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

how are you cutting your handles, Daniel?

I usually have them fiber laser cut, those might be waterjet on that knife.

I often get just a lock side cut and make the rest by hand.

 

[Lorien]

thanks! Helpful info

I usually have them fiber laser cut, those might be waterjet on that knife.

I often get just a lock side cut and make the rest by hand.

 

[Lorien]

That's looking good!
Add more parallel and square lines on the profile+sides and it will come nicely by following the grid pattern (as long as you have a point of reference ie:flat and parallel ricasso, you can add the lines at any point of shaping)

here's how I do it;

draw two different profile, pick the one that feels right

clear plastic template of that side

pencil in the part not covered by stencil

like so

profile outer dimension

 

[bike4fun919 OpbunchKnives]

 

[ScarFoot]

Decided to make myself a knife and thought it would be a great idea to see if I could make a decent fixed blade that matched the specs of a Benchmade bugout. I got really close. It’s way more comfortable in the hand.

 

[Taz]

The Bugout size/shape makes a great EDC fixie! I make a lot based on the Bugout and Mini Bugout!

 

[Nate’s Knives]

So far on the Mako design I drew out around a month ago

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

View attachment 3250779
So far on the Mako design I drew out around a month ago

Nice!!!

 

[Tony Mont]

here's how I do it;

draw two different profile, pick the one that feels right

clear plastic template of that side

pencil in the part not covered by stencil

like so

profile outer dimension

Clear templates work nicely as a foundation to get the rough shape but they are hard to utilise once contouring has began (however the thin clear plastic you use might negate this problem) and do not offer a lot of help when checking symmetry.

A combination of template+grid would make the best way to achieve the desired shape while maintaining symmetry (a good laid out grid makes it pretty easy to keep everything the same from side to side).
While a removable handle makes it a breeze to lay down the grid, it can be done even if the handle is glued, there is just more involvement to do it.

With all that being said, the knife is coming along nicely, I can't wait to see the end result.

 

[Lorien]

Clear templates work nicely as a foundation to get the rough shape but they are hard to utilise once contouring has began (however the thin clear plastic you use might negate this problem) and do not offer a lot of help when checking symmetry.

A combination of template+grid would make the best way to achieve the desired shape while maintaining symmetry (a good laid out grid makes it pretty easy to keep everything the same from side to side).
While a removable handle makes it a breeze to lay down the grid, it can be done even if the handle is glued, there is just more involvement to do it.

With all that being said, the knife is coming along nicely, I can't wait to see the end result.

thanks!
You make some good points, that speak for themselves through your work. Although I always just eyeball my handles usually, I'll give your method a try one of these days.


And that's what I LOVE about knife making. It may be the oldest craft in human history- which is maybe why there are so many ways to go about it- yet there is no rule book, so the best way to learn is through each other and trial and error.

 

[Nate’s Knives]

Rough stock removal karambit I sketched out. Please don’t judge too harshly. It’s called a prototype for a reason

 

[David Mary]

Promising. And your Mako design is my favorite of your designs so far.