What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Will do. I have a large sheet of Ti that's .075". I want the liners to be .060" so there's two challenges, how to break the sheet down efficiently, and mill thin material thinner. I'm basically going to cut 1.5x5" rectangles on the laser, with tooling holes, and also laser cut the lock bar cut, the jimping, and the skeletonizing cuts. Then, with the tooling holes, bolt into the machining fixture, mill the scale to thickness, add a couple more hold down screws after milling, inside the skeletonizing cuts, and mill/drill/ream the precision holes and exterior profile.
 
JGP2FJU.jpg
 
kuraki said:
Will do. I have a large sheet of Ti that's .075". I want the liners to be .060" so there's two challenges, how to break the sheet down efficiently, and mill thin material thinner. I'm basically going to cut 1.5x5" rectangles on the laser, with tooling holes, and also laser cut the lock bar cut, the jimping, and the skeletonizing cuts. Then, with the tooling holes, bolt into the machining fixture, mill the scale to thickness, add a couple more hold down screws after milling, inside the skeletonizing cuts, and mill/drill/ream the precision holes and exterior profile.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a plan.
Can you use the new surface grinder? Is it the 6al4v ti?
 
kuraki said:
Will do. I have a large sheet of Ti that's .075". I want the liners to be .060" so there's two challenges, how to break the sheet down efficiently, and mill thin material thinner. I'm basically going to cut 1.5x5" rectangles on the laser, with tooling holes, and also laser cut the lock bar cut, the jimping, and the skeletonizing cuts. Then, with the tooling holes, bolt into the machining fixture, mill the scale to thickness, add a couple more hold down screws after milling, inside the skeletonizing cuts, and mill/drill/ream the precision holes and exterior profile.
Click to expand...

That's pretty thin! I think the easiest way to machine the titanium you have using a mill would be to use some kind of adhesive to keep it down on some scrap material, then use a facing mill or flycutter to bring the thickness down, then using a solvent to remove the titanium again.
 
I hope this isn't getting on your way . I suggest tracing out just one side with your pattern out line on the .075 titanium using the pivot hole as a positioning point. Once this ONE is contour ground position your blade on this scale, mark out all other holes that need to be drilled and do that. Now use this liner to make the next by placing it on the next piece of titanium for this. Add a few drops of crazy glue and allow a few minutes to dry. Now again drill all the holes through the first titanium liner, contour grind, to get them equally sized. NOW disc or granite block sand each on each side. I do in fact recommend say .060 titanium to start with for liner locks that will have thrust bearings. I hope this will help some, John.
Frank
 
Those are good suggestions Frank, but I'm going to do it a little different. Like I said I'll do a WIP thread but in brief, I will laser cut a blank that looks like this:

BdSWzLX.jpg


And then I will load it into the machining fixture and do this:

 
My latest find/toy for the shop.



A couple of the guys from the shop that I got it from put it on its side when loading it onto my truck. Some oil leaked out of the dashpot, maybe an oz or so. Not at all familiar with these things but did a lil research. Just wondering if it takes 10W oil, like for motorcycle forks? The action doesn't seem as smooth after it leaked oil. Plus, didn't realize I needed 150kg of weight. It only came with 45kg of weights. Anyone know where I can buy weights for this thing? The only ones I could find cost at least triple for what I paid for this thing. Also seems like it's fairly easy to calibrate. The shop I got it from said they have it done professionally. I think it got jostled around on the way to its new home so I recalibrated it. Seems to be testing fine now with the test block it came with.

EDIT: Dang just realized this is a superficial hardness tester, so not sure I can even use this to test hardened steel...
 
Last edited:
OccamsBlade said:
My latest find/toy for the shop.



A couple of the guys from the shop that I got it from put it on its side when loading it onto my truck. Some oil leaked out of the dashpot, maybe an oz or so. Not at all familiar with these things but did a lil research. Just wondering if it takes 10W oil, like for motorcycle forks? The action doesn't seem as smooth after it leaked oil. Plus, didn't realize I needed 150kg of weight. It only came with 45kg of weights. Anyone know where I can buy weights for this thing? The only ones I could find cost at least triple for what I paid for this thing. Also seems like it's fairly easy to calibrate. The shop I got it from said they have it done professionally. I think it got jostled around on the way to its new home so I recalibrated it. Seems to be testing fine now with the test block it came with.

EDIT: Dang just realized this is a superficial hardness tester, so not sure I can even use this to test hardened steel...
Click to expand...
Ooooooh I'm jealous. I think superficial is just a reference that it'll only test the material it makes contact with, ie the surface of the steel, so I think you're good if you're just testing the hardness of knife steel. Maybe someone who knows with greater certainty than I will chime in.
 
I just finished this jigged bone hunter. Since photo was taken, I did a little more polishing on the pins and polishing on the scales. This I my first time using bone and I liked using it. I left the flats with the finish from the quench/tempering process (I like that look). 1084 steel, red liners under the bone, 7.5" OAL with a 3.25" blade.
Feedback and comments welcome. Thanks!

 
WillardCorspe said:
Ooooooh I'm jealous. I think superficial is just a reference that it'll only test the material it makes contact with, ie the surface of the steel, so I think you're good if you're just testing the hardness of knife steel. Maybe someone who knows with greater certainty than I will chime in.
Click to expand...

Yeah, hoping I can just add more weight and still use it. It came with a diamond and ball tip. I think I would need another test plate for testing (the calibration) hardened steel with 150kg...if I can indeed use this.
 
bike4fun919 said:
I just finished this jigged bone hunter. Since photo was taken, I did a little more polishing on the pins and polishing on the scales. This I my first time using bone and I liked using it. I left the flats with the finish from the quench/tempering process (I like that look). 1084 steel, red liners under the bone, 7.5" OAL with a 3.25" blade.
Feedback and comments welcome. Thanks!

Click to expand...
Nice work. What did you use for the liners?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top