What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

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4 of 7 are rough ground out of the batch now, trying some with 7/8 high saber grinds to see how I like them. Once the rest are roughed out I'll switch to my finishing belts and sand the flats.
 
jwccustom57 said:
Here's a few getting prepped for heat treat. I still need to grind some tang hollows and other tidbits of work. New to me medium and small choppers and large and medium fighter styles that I think I'll call my "fangers" since I like to make up words. The first two pics are 5160 and the hidden tangs are 52100. I've got more but don't want to clutter up a post. I typically go to 600 grit pre HT and Paul Bos sends them back so clean I usually can start right up at 600 quick clean up and go from there. Comments/critique welcome as always!View attachment 1145618 View attachment 1145619 View attachment 1145620

Thanks for looking,
John Cahoon
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You ticked all the boxes on that top chopper in the second pic, nice looking blade!
 
Nice blade Alex. I am not sold on the handle being right. The end shouldn't get smaller. It also looks pretty round. Both those reduce control.
I would have used a wa shape handle, but a western one is OK if it has a good grip and control.

Another thing is I usually put a tiny heel flat on that very sharp point which is right where your fingers will be.

The camera angle makes it hard to guess size, what are the measurements of the blade and the handle?
 
Thanks Stacy.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
The camera angle makes it hard to guess size, what are the measurements of the blade and the handle?
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overall length is about 27cm (~11 inch), 15cm (6") blade, 12 (5") cm handle.
The photos don't show the shape of the handle well, it's D with a large flat on the left side. I think it will be ok, but it's a knife for me so if it doesn't work I'll try again. I would have done a more traditional wa shape if i weren't using it, but i decided to get a little experimental. The rounded bit at the back sits out behind my hand, I though with the angles in the blade a really square handle wouldn't look right

The heel flat is a good idea, I'll do that when I sharpen it tonight.
 
Got 2 chef knives profiled out ready to heat treat a couple of days ago.
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Problem is my DESPERATELY needed to be done. So I did what people said not to do and made a new forge out of just kastolite. Durable? yes functional? Nope. So had to tear it apart and do it the right way.
Got 2in of kaowool, some rigidizer, and used kastolite to seal the wool. Hopefully its dried by tomorrow so I can fire up the forge and test it out
 
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Here's a shot showing the profile of that handle.
Also the seam where I glued it and a small burn Iron bark end grain seems to burn really easy
 
1561466992188 (2).jpg A "D" handle is basically a triangular handle that you flatten one side with a very low arc, and make the top a similar arc that tips to a ridge. The curve from the ridge to the bottom is more pronounced. Look at #13,19, and20 in the images and you can see the ridge. I attached a quick sketch of the basic idea.

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Where is the plane of the blade in relation to those? I'm having trouble picturing how it exists as a 3d object.
Maybe I just need to buy one so I can hold it in my hands.
 
Alex Topfer said:
Where is the plane of the blade in relation to those? I'm having trouble picturing how it exists as a 3d object.
Maybe I just need to buy one so I can hold it in my hands.
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I know you were asking Stacy but here's a pic in case he don't get back to you... On the knife below, this is a D handle placed for a lefty (the pointy side goes towards the fingers instead of the palm):
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Looking at the handle from the butt end:
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