What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

[Cushing H.]

one I'm finishing up

Cool Handle. Not pure Wa, neither pure western style.... cool knife overall!

 

[torqueguy]

Finishing this one up. I’m really enjoying this forum, great workmanship of all types. Until I found this forum, I thought I was the only guy with this knife disease.

This is a 60mm Scandi grind and the magnets are dry, the cover and spacers are ground to fit

 

[torqueguy]

 

[torqueguy]

A little Tru-Oil and this one’s done. A little less embellishment than the others. This one is Moose Antler and Tiger Wood

Cocobolo Wharnecliff is next. Great wood! I see a roadtrip to tidewater va coming soon

 

[torqueguy]

 

[torqueguy]

Fig pruner pocket pukko

 

[torqueguy]

Same blade as this

 

[allenkey]

I'm working on finishing this one up - one of my latest. I'm fairly pleased with how it came out. 15N20 in low grade curly maple stained with Aqua fortis. It's got white G10 liners. Two things though: I wish I made the scales come out from the front pin by maybe 1/8" or 3/16" more. Looks kinda funny to me. My tang clearly wasn't as flat as I hoped and I can see the epoxy inbetween the liners and tang which is not what I wanted. Debating popping the scales back off and resetting them.

I'm gettin' there though.

 

[DeadboxHero]

CPM S110v after Cryo LN.

 

[torqueguy]

I'm working on finishing this one up - one of my latest. I'm fairly pleased with how it came out. 15N20 in low grade curly maple stained with Aqua fortis. It's got white G10 liners. Two things though: I wish I made the scales come out from the front pin by maybe 1/8" or 3/16" more. Looks kinda funny to me. My tang clearly wasn't as flat as I hoped and I can see the epoxy inbetween the liners and tang which is not what I wanted. Debating popping the scales back off and resetting them.

I'm gettin' there though.

Beautiful. Nitric Acid is the best on Curly. 30 years ago I was heavily into Flintlocks. Shot paint cans off hand at 100 yards. Anyway, we stained our stocks with nitric and just a little heat, and lots of boiled linseed oil and spirits. Thanks for the memories man

 

[allenkey]

Beautiful. Nitric Acid is the best on Curly. 30 years ago I was heavily into Flintlocks. Shot paint cans off hand at 100 yards. Anyway, we stained our stocks with nitric and just a little heat, and lots of boiled linseed oil and spirits. Thanks for the memories man

I used boiled linseed oil after the nitric acid too! It REALLY made me want to buy the high grade curly maple. It's so cool how the light flows through the curls in real life! Thanks for the compliments! I bet one of your knives in curly maple would be pretty sick too man. You do great work!

 

[torqueguy]

Thats a Curly Wharnecliff and my favorite pistol. 1949 Browning design built by Colt as the Woodsman 2nd gen. Gun is 70% machine made and something like 30% is hand fit and polished. New machines make more accurate stuff but old guns are slicker

 

[torqueguy]

This is Karelian Curly Birch and woodwind quality ebony. Years ago I bought a bunch of ebony in the estate sale of a clarinet and oboe maker in NYC. The birch comes from Russia. One of the prettiest blocks I’ve worked with.

The blade is a hand forged Puronvarsi 95mm Bullnose flatgrind. Krupp carbon steel. Probably a Volvo leaf spring?

 

[Alex Topfer]

Is this the traditional construction of a pukko sheath? I haven't seen that method before

 

[torqueguy]

Its a variation. Traditional Puukko’s have a leather wrapping around the wood. The traditional wood is spruce or soft pine. Not important if the leather will wrap it
Like this

 

[Alex Topfer]

Ah, cool. I have read people saying there are problems using pine for sheaths due to tannin rusting it, is that right?
Although i did make a knife with a blackbutt sheath, and i haven't had any problems from the tannin in it

 

[Horsewright]

Sometimes I get shop visitors:

Sometimes my daughter helps out:

Although profiling on the grinder is her fav.

Sometimes I got stuff to cut up:

Sometimes ya can't work in the shop cause ya got to fix the fence.

 

[DCamargo]

My Current work in progress. This would be knife #3. My jimping is still sloppy. I am going to try to clean it up, but we'll see how that goes. I don't have a checkering file, so I am doing everything old school. This one has not gone according to plan. It's been fighting me the whole way. I guess it wants to be what it wants to be. haha.

 

[torqueguy]

Ah, cool. I have read people saying there are problems using pine for sheaths due to tannin rusting it, is that right?
Although i did make a knife with a blackbutt sheath, and i haven't had any problems from the tannin in it

Good question. I seal all my scabbards with TruOil in order to block any humidity being absorbed by the wood.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Pine does not have tannins, it has resins. Oak is the tannin bearing wood that is often mentioned about not to use where it will contact steel. Mostly it just makes [the wood blacken and tarnishes the steel.

For the trivia folks, the word tannin comes from the latin word for oak bark. Oak bark was what was used to tan hides for millenia.

Torqueguy -
You need to thin those sheaths down much more. Properly made, the sides are no more than .10" thick. I often go to around .06" thick. The sheath should be only a tad larger than the blade. Nothing wrong with all wood puukko sheaths as compared to leather coated ones, but the leather is more tradition.