What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Swearing. Swearing is going on in my shop
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Cushing H. said:
Grinding bevels is indeed easier with the stability and slower speed of the variable speed grinder. Had to try the grinder out :) - below are the four blades I received from JT's first plasma cutter run: my wife has really small hands, and has discovered she likes using our rather cheap/flimsy butter knives as dinner knives. I thought I would make her something better! These have 15 degree bevels - not perfect, but things went easier/cleaner/faster as I went through this set of 4. Plunge lines are NOT easy to get straight - and harder on the left side than the right.... Will handle these with Walnut. Mostly these are a learning effort for me: ultimately I plan to make a set out of stainless damascus, with bolsters (she wants bolsters for some reason :) ) , and maybe that stabilized spalted maple I got from WEO (she likes that spalted maple!)
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She will like that. I have a couple of boxes of his maple and it really looks great when you get it done.
 
The idea is to have a large number of small pins around the outside of a handle. I wanted to use stainless steel ones and peen them, but that required shaping the handle and adding the pins later which was causing me problems. Also everywhere I could find 2mm rod is screwing up my orders
So I gave up on that, and I'm using brass pins I'll grind flush. However it turns out 2mm brass wire took some time to push through the holes. Rod would have been a better choice, being hardened. Still, a small pin has a relatively large amount offriction regardless
I got it all together in the end.
I'm sick of having this blade on my work in progress shelf, so I'm going to finish it with what I have
 
Alex Topfer said:
The idea is to have a large number of small pins around the outside of a handle. I wanted to use stainless steel ones and peen them, but that required shaping the handle and adding the pins later which was causing me problems. Also everywhere I could find 2mm rod is screwing up my orders
So I gave up on that, and I'm using brass pins I'll grind flush. However it turns out 2mm brass wire took some time to push through the holes. Rod would have been a better choice, being hardened. Still, a small pin has a relatively large amount offriction regardless
I got it all together in the end.
I'm sick of having this blade on my work in progress shelf, so I'm going to finish it with what I have
Click to expand...
You can shape handle with several pins on ... then glue scale with all pins on and pinned them all .That is how I do on this one .Pins are 2mm cooper but after I peen them they look much bigger .Walnut can handle that expansion ...
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Got two more off the bench last night. These are X treme grade Karelian Birch soaking in their 5th coat of TruOil

 
Beautiful grind.

Ocelot85 said:
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Last of 6 to be roughed out, felt this one needed some attitude. The false edge at the top has around .03 of a flat so if your thumb goes to far forward you don't cut it. The back edge once it transfers to the clip is a 60 degree inclusive edge. Going to try to clean this one up tomorrow and get things ready to ship to heat treat within the next week or so.
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That's pretty sweet, Occam! Neat finish you got going on the pivot/handle. Not to mention the insane damascus haha... reminds me very much of a friction folder my brother has from Japan
 
allenkey said:
That's pretty sweet, Occam! Neat finish you got going on the pivot/handle. Not to mention the insane damascus haha... reminds me very much of a friction folder my brother has from Japan
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Thanks man! Getting a look I was happy with on the copper was the hardest part, haha. I was trying to stick as closely as possible to a traditional Higo.
 
Ah, a Higo! That's exactly what I was referring to. You did a great job replicating it. I recognized the influence right away
 
Those are nice, and you really did the wood proud. I will say that you need to work on reducing the sheath part to not be so much larger than the handle. On a puukko it can be somewhat larger, but yours are a bit oversize.


torqueguy said:
Got two more off the bench last night. These are X treme grade Karelian Birch soaking in their 5th coat of TruOil

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Here is my dress sgian dubh. It isn't a puukko, but the knife is a similar type and size. Notice how the sheath is in line with the handle. The handle and sheath are mammoth ivory. The fittings are engraved sterling silver. Blasé is stainless damascus.

On a puukko, I try and have the sheath top match the handle. Then I wrap the upper sheath in leather and stitch the tube tight. The handle will go into the leather tube and seat against the sheath. I attach the belt loop to the leather, too. I usually just leave the top knob of the handle stitching out of the leather unless the handle is fancy wood, in which case I only have about 3/4" to 1" of the handle inserted.
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Hi Stacy, understand your comments and agree they are oversized. I made them thinner but I design these to ride in my front pants pocket. I find that if they are thinner, they tend to twist in my pocket. With a flatter spread and a slight upward angle on the handle and the thing rides perfectly in the pocket.

You were absolutely correct on the magnet scratches. I am getting very slight scratches but, the magnets really hold the blade in the scabbard. I worry about having a 2.5-3” arm shaving razor so close to my best buddies. I’ll live with the scratches. I put a little vaseline on the blades and between the lube and the magnets, the blades snick/click in like cocking a fine hammer and sear


These are Lauri PT carbon 4” blades and the wood is currently on its 6th coat of TruOil. I’m going to give them a 7th coat tonight. Once the top coat hardens for 48 hours in low humidity, I buff this first with a cloth wheel then rub down with a mix of ground pumice talcum and petroleum jelly


 
600 grit sanding of the 6th coat. Looks pretty gloomy



This is after a quick rubdown with mineral spirits to remove the dust and meld the scratches.


This is now ready for 7th and final TruOil coat. From experience I know it will be 4-5 drops for the scabbard and 5 drops for a heavy coat on the handle. 10 drops
The finish must be in the wood, not on it
 
Alex Topfer said:
The idea is to have a large number of small pins around the outside of a handle. I wanted to use stainless steel ones and peen them, but that required shaping the handle and adding the pins later which was causing me problems. Also everywhere I could find 2mm rod is screwing up my orders
So I gave up on that, and I'm using brass pins I'll grind flush. However it turns out 2mm brass wire took some time to push through the holes. Rod would have been a better choice, being hardened. Still, a small pin has a relatively large amount offriction regardless
I got it all together in the end.
I'm sick of having this blade on my work in progress shelf, so I'm going to finish it with what I have
Click to expand...

I always have hidden pins. That alows you to finish scales before glue up.
Also if you use 2mm pin stock drill 2,05mm holes. Up to 3mm I always go 0,05mm over size. It makes a difference like day and night.
Ebay sells them cheap. First drill 2mm with a good bit then 2,05mm with a cheap one.

For peening you want soft stock.
Either glue in place and cut/file down to 0,5-1 times the diameter of your stock.
Or use waxed pins, remove them after glue up and take your time peening after the epoxy has set.

I've done it with 1mm pin stock
 
Wanted to show this one after the 7th and final coat of TruOil. The schmootz on the Ebony is TruOil that doesn’t penetrate because Ebony, like Cocobolo is so hard and dense that the TO doesn’t penetrate it. That will just buff off once the TO is cured and hard in another 48 hours or so. The final step will be to buff then rub down with rottenstone and petroleum jelly
Thats a 100mm Kankaanpaa blade which was double stamped.





Thanks to Stacy Apelt’s keen eyes and kind comments, I’m doing much better with my bolster and pommel fitting. The secret is to not rush, drill small and file carefully!
 
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