What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Icarus Kiritsuke...
In my quest to make the edge the thinnest I fled too high and failed... Yes, it may look OK but there is a spot on the edge that's thinner and when I sharpened it I noticed...
It's usable, but once you see the defect you cannot unsee it... shit happens...
I'll keep it, its razor sharp.

Made of 2mm/0.08" Bohler K720/O2 steel, 21cm/8.2" cutting edge and 0.2mm/0.008" at the edge. Handle in maple burl/ancient bog oak/radal burl.

Pablo

emLQmAj.jpg

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5yt0nuS.jpg
 
PEU said:
Icarus Kiritsuke...
In my quest to make the edge the thinnest I fled too high and failed... Yes, it may look OK but there is a spot on the edge that's thinner and when I sharpened it I noticed...
It's usable, but once you see the defect you cannot unsee it... shit happens...
I'll keep it, its razor sharp.

Made of 2mm/0.08" Bohler K720/O2 steel, 21cm/8.2" cutting edge and 0.2mm/0.008" at the edge. Handle in maple burl/ancient bog oak/radal burl.

Pablo

emLQmAj.jpg

6Fckwa3.jpg

5yt0nuS.jpg
Click to expand...
Why not just use some flat stones or paper on a flat surface to thin it all down to uniform? Shouldn't take long, and it would only reduce the height slightly. This is what I do in my hand sanding progression to alternate scratch patterns and show the high/low spots.
 
PEU said:
Icarus Kiritsuke...
In my quest to make the edge the thinnest I fled too high and failed... Yes, it may look OK but there is a spot on the edge that's thinner and when I sharpened it I noticed...
It's usable, but once you see the defect you cannot unsee it... shit happens...
I'll keep it, its razor sharp.

Made of 2mm/0.08" Bohler K720/O2 steel, 21cm/8.2" cutting edge and 0.2mm/0.008" at the edge. Handle in maple burl/ancient bog oak/radal burl.

Pablo

emLQmAj.jpg

6Fckwa3.jpg

5yt0nuS.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks like it would keal some vegetables, I don't exactly get what the problem is?
 
FredyCro said:
Looks like it would keal some vegetables, I don't exactly get what the problem is?
Click to expand...

About two inches from the handle at the edge there is a spot about an inch long that has less thickness and when you sharpen the edge that inch doesn't touch the cutting table.
My fix so I can use it was to sharpen the edge differentially in the pre and post error areas. I will use it, I can live with that, but this one not gonna sell, maybe a gift for a friend in the future before telling him this.

Pablo
 
Here’s a hunting knife I’m working on. This one has a 5160 carbon steel blade, padauk scales, green liners, and stainless steel steel pins. I’m always looking for ways to improve. Let me know what you think.
C1-C78241-2-F22-4-E70-87-C4-74-EAA0-FD033-B.jpg
 
TheEdge01 said:
Here’s a hunting knife I’m working on. This one has a 5160 carbon steel blade, padauk scales, green liners, and stainless steel steel pins. I’m always looking for ways to improve. Let me know what you think.
C1-C78241-2-F22-4-E70-87-C4-74-EAA0-FD033-B.jpg
Click to expand...
Looks good. Sometimes it's hard to pinpoint what to change until you look at a bunch that you like and then see what elements they have.
I would put a round choil centered on the plunge.
I would break the long flat line of the spine and handle. You could drop the handle slightly, clip the blade or both.
I would amplify the curves under the handle and make the transition to the finger guard more smooth.
Those are all my thoughts, but it is your knife so your opinion matters most.
 
Richard338 said:
Looks good. Sometimes it's hard to pinpoint what to change until you look at a bunch that you like and then see what elements they have.
I would put a round choil centered on the plunge.
I would break the long flat line of the spine and handle. You could drop the handle slightly, clip the blade or both.
I would amplify the curves under the handle and make the transition to the finger guard more smooth.
Those are all my thoughts, but it is your knife so your opinion matters most.
Click to expand...
Thank you!!! I still get nervous about taking off too much material, so my designs tend to look a little chunky sometimes.
 
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PEU said:
About two inches from the handle at the edge there is a spot about an inch long that has less thickness and when you sharpen the edge that inch doesn't touch the cutting table.
My fix so I can use it was to sharpen the edge differentially in the pre and post error areas. I will use it, I can live with that, but this one not gonna sell, maybe a gift for a friend in the future before telling him this.

Pablo
Click to expand...

Probably impossible to see in the pic anyway. Must be very minor. I like how Don Nguyen puts an edge mid grinding (on a horizontal disc) to find the middle and then grinds to it. Helped me a lot to get the right overall edge thickness.
 
I hate it when this happens, I feel your pain.



PEU said:
About two inches from the handle at the edge there is a spot about an inch long that has less thickness and when you sharpen the edge that inch doesn't touch the cutting table.
Click to expand...
 
FredyCro said:
Probably impossible to see in the pic anyway. Must be very minor. I like how Don Nguyen puts an edge mid grinding (on a horizontal disc) to find the middle and then grinds to it. Helped me a lot to get the right overall edge thickness.
Click to expand...
It is there , you need to look carefully............It can be easy fix , i don t know why PEU PEU don t fix that ?
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I don't know if I've already seen this on the forum, but without it I wouldn't be able to shape any handle properly, an irreplaceable tool for me .Need only a slightly flat surface on ricasso ...........can be used in any stage of shaping handle
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My chisels are finished :D
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Natlek said:
It is there , you need to look carefully............It can be easy fix , i don t know why PEU PEU don t fix that ?
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Missed that, it looks like a small thing though. You would need to take some edge off and thin the rest to be the same? PEU has high standards, the whole package is very nice, I bet any friend would be very happy to get that knife.
 
PEU said:
About two inches from the handle at the edge there is a spot about an inch long that has less thickness and when you sharpen the edge that inch doesn't touch the cutting table.
My fix so I can use it was to sharpen the edge differentially in the pre and post error areas. I will use it, I can live with that, but this one not gonna sell, maybe a gift for a friend in the future before telling him this.

Pablo
Click to expand...
That happened to me once... and I just re profiled the edge to have more curvature towards the handle,creating a continuous curve. I think Stacy has said he does the same thing?
 
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