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So now I can grind distal taper tang on my surface grinder BUT I need other tool to drill that MF holes for pins after that .Is there are end of making tools ???
As always, I improvised with what was around me .So here it is , I need to turn on lathe that part next to the tool on 15mm Dia. and I m done .That part would press scale material IN bolster/guard so I can drill holes for pin on right place , no gap between guard and wood .or if I use some spacers between guard/bolster and wood that bolt would press tight all parts together ....
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First distal taper tang finished ,I leave it 2mm on end and lost 30 grams of weight . Now it is 150 grams ,not bad for 4.5 or it was 4.6 mm thick steel on spine . Hole drilling tool done !
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Now I'm thinking should i leave it black and silver or to add some red detail , just on guard/bolster not between scales and tang ? I plan to sand blast guard after peening , satin finish bevels and spine and around handle mirror polished ?
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Probably not worth the effort, if it's already hardened... Unless you're gonna use a cutoff wheel or something...
 
A.McPherson said:
Probably not worth the effort, if it's already hardened... Unless you're gonna use a cutoff wheel or something...
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Yes it is hardened S30V steel , 62 HRC . Thin cutoff disk on Dremel would done job fast but then I must use small grinding stones to make that ellipse . I will see tomorrow what i would done .
 
Richard338 said:
There are two considerations, the total weight, and then its distribution, as in the balance. Lighter can be better but not if you introduce an awkward balance.
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For scale i will use African Blackwood and it is very heavy so i think that removing more steel from tang would not make balance awkward . I also plan to remove some weight from inner side of scales when i finish scale . Good balance is if it is on bolster right ?
 
Natlek said:
For scale i will use African Blackwood and it is very heavy so i think that removing more steel from tang would not make balance awkward . I also plan to remove some weight from inner side of scales when i finish scale . Good balance is if it is on bolster right ?
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Something to play around with. I guess the best balance depends a bit on the style and how you will use it. If it's just one knife and it's for you then I wouldn't over think it.
 
got this lil guy more or less finished today
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Bubinga Chef

I just finished this kitchen knife, (my fourth) and it's now hanging out in our kitchen- ready for duty. The blade is done to a 400 grit hand rubbed finish, and is convex ground from about a cm up from the edge. Flat ground from there to the spine. The handle is bubinga, (I think) and the...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
Natlek said:
For scale i will use African Blackwood and it is very heavy so i think that removing more steel from tang would not make balance awkward . I also plan to remove some weight from inner side of scales when i finish scale . Good balance is if it is on bolster right ?
Click to expand...
Just hit the tang with the small wheel and hollow it out that way. By far the easiest way on hard steel.
 
This is slipjoint #9 ready for HT.
(this makes 3 to send off)
These swedges look cool but also realy remove material and give a thin and sharp point.
I used a cheap ebay knife as a template but that doesn't work for me. I just ordered 2mm paper micarta to make templates out off and be able to scratch good lines.

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