• Happy Thanksgiving to all of you! I hope that you all have something to be grateful for this year and for many years to come
  • America has reached 250 years, and I am grateful to be here, in the best country in the world. Thank every one of you who helps make this country a better place, those who have gone before and risked it all, and those who've paid the ultimate price to make the United States what we are today.

    Happy Birthday America! Let Freedom Ring for all time!

What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

So now I can grind distal taper tang on my surface grinder BUT I need other tool to drill that MF holes for pins after that .Is there are end of making tools ???
As always, I improvised with what was around me .So here it is , I need to turn on lathe that part next to the tool on 15mm Dia. and I m done .That part would press scale material IN bolster/guard so I can drill holes for pin on right place , no gap between guard and wood .or if I use some spacers between guard/bolster and wood that bolt would press tight all parts together ....
h6ujbjG.jpg

yTz9NAy.jpg
 
Last edited:
First distal taper tang finished ,I leave it 2mm on end and lost 30 grams of weight . Now it is 150 grams ,not bad for 4.5 or it was 4.6 mm thick steel on spine . Hole drilling tool done !
qx37RQD.jpg

aDQYVLA.jpg

ejmTCQ2.jpg

Now I'm thinking should i leave it black and silver or to add some red detail , just on guard/bolster not between scales and tang ? I plan to sand blast guard after peening , satin finish bevels and spine and around handle mirror polished ?
GuMMhag.jpg
 
Probably not worth the effort, if it's already hardened... Unless you're gonna use a cutoff wheel or something...
 
Probably not worth the effort, if it's already hardened... Unless you're gonna use a cutoff wheel or something...
Yes it is hardened S30V steel , 62 HRC . Thin cutoff disk on Dremel would done job fast but then I must use small grinding stones to make that ellipse . I will see tomorrow what i would done .
 
There are two considerations, the total weight, and then its distribution, as in the balance. Lighter can be better but not if you introduce an awkward balance.
For scale i will use African Blackwood and it is very heavy so i think that removing more steel from tang would not make balance awkward . I also plan to remove some weight from inner side of scales when i finish scale . Good balance is if it is on bolster right ?
 
For scale i will use African Blackwood and it is very heavy so i think that removing more steel from tang would not make balance awkward . I also plan to remove some weight from inner side of scales when i finish scale . Good balance is if it is on bolster right ?
Something to play around with. I guess the best balance depends a bit on the style and how you will use it. If it's just one knife and it's for you then I wouldn't over think it.
 
got this lil guy more or less finished today
x3SD5Fw.jpg

 
For scale i will use African Blackwood and it is very heavy so i think that removing more steel from tang would not make balance awkward . I also plan to remove some weight from inner side of scales when i finish scale . Good balance is if it is on bolster right ?
Just hit the tang with the small wheel and hollow it out that way. By far the easiest way on hard steel.
 
This is slipjoint #9 ready for HT.
(this makes 3 to send off)
These swedges look cool but also realy remove material and give a thin and sharp point.
I used a cheap ebay knife as a template but that doesn't work for me. I just ordered 2mm paper micarta to make templates out off and be able to scratch good lines.

20220427-204410.jpg


20220427-204446.jpg
 
Back
Top