What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

J. Fisher - CopperMai SS Core - Chef.jpegJ. Fisher - CopperMai SS Core - Nikiri.jpeg
Excited to share photos of this project with Baker Forge in NC. I approached them at the beginning of the year about making some stainless core Copper Mai material and they jumped right on the idea and knocked it out of the park. These are the final samples after several test bars, the first blade is a nitro-v core and the second is aeb-l core. I believe their first production run of these materials will be released next week.
 
Joshua Fisher said:
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Excited to share photos of this project with Baker Forge in NC. I approached them at the beginning of the year about making some stainless core Copper Mai material and they jumped right on the idea and knocked it out of the park. These are the final samples after several test bars, the first blade is a nitro-v core and the second is aeb-l core. I believe their first production run of these materials will be released next week.
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They look really cool, congrats!
 
Joshua Fisher said:
View attachment 2524040View attachment 2524041
Excited to share photos of this project with Baker Forge in NC. I approached them at the beginning of the year about making some stainless core Copper Mai material and they jumped right on the idea and knocked it out of the park. These are the final samples after several test bars, the first blade is a nitro-v core and the second is aeb-l core. I believe their first production run of these materials will be released next week.
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Is it challenging heat treating it when copper's melting point is so close to AEB-L's aust temp?
 
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Sean Yaw said:
Is is challenging heat treating it when copper's melting point is so close to AEB-L's aust temp?
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For the aeb-l blades I used 1950 for my aus temp and didn’t run into any issues. If your oven runs hot I’d suggest accounting for that with it being close. Nitro-v has a lot more room for comfort at 1900 aus temp
 
I had warped blade from my last heat treat, I think I should have quenched again. Anyhow I don't have a carbide hammer and didn't fancy shelling out for one to test, what I do have plenty of are carbide drill bits, the builders kind : Some of those SDS bits have huge carbide tips. So I thought I would be a cheapskate and try it out before I decided to make a real carbide hammer for myself.
Straighten.jpg

The technique that I employed was hold the drill bit like a center punch, I softened the point on the grinder first, and just tapped away letting the drill bit move and bounce about slightly between strikes, its surprising how fast you can get it going.
It straightened out the blade in a couple of minutes, I had to keep chasing the bend and moving around a bit, but overall was pleased how smoothly it went from stuff I already had lying about in the shed. The next Issue I pondered on is will it stay straight on grinding the edge etc.
 
I am having a nightmare here and do not understand what it is exactly that I am doing wrong.
I have tilted the grinder so that its running horizontal, using a hand magnet to hold the blade against the platen. I am getting weird dimples occur in the surface finish.
when one disappears another pops up somewhere else?
I hope that one of you guys will have seen this before and can put me right.
dimples.jpgdimples1.jpg
 
Way-Barney said:
I am having a nightmare here and do not understand what it is exactly that I am doing wrong.
I have tilted the grinder so that its running horizontal, using a hand magnet to hold the blade against the platen. I am getting weird dimples occur in the surface finish.
when one disappears another pops up somewhere else?
I hope that one of you guys will have seen this before and can put me right.
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Likely the bottom edge of your platen or wheel digging, make sure your platen is proud of both wheels so they aren’t in a perfect line. Other thought is make sure there isn’t a clump of grinding dust getting caught on the inside of the belt causing a bump. If neither of those suggestions help switch to a new belt, the surface looks like it’s burnished a bit like how it looks grinding with a worn belt and that could be giving you a weird result.
 
Joshua Fisher said:
Likely the bottom edge of your platen or wheel digging, make sure your platen is proud of both wheels so they aren’t in a perfect line. Other thought is make sure there isn’t a clump of grinding dust getting caught on the inside of the belt causing a bump. If neither of those suggestions help switch to a new belt, the surface looks like it’s burnished a bit like how it looks grinding with a worn belt and that could be giving you a weird result.
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thank you,
I will give those suggestions a try
 
Slowly working my way though this batch of CPM 4V. Bevels, swedge and tapered tang ground on this clip point. Slightly smaller than the other one at 9" OAL and a 4.5" blade.

3jMtSpq.jpg
 
Set of Kitchen knives complete.
All are 14c28n steel w/ Paul Bos HT~62
7” Chef .130” thick/ 2” at heel
6.5” Utility .100” thick/ 1.25” at heel
3.5” Parer .100” thick/ .9” at heel
Apple Jack Dymalux handles w/stainless pins and West System GFlex epoxy

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Joshua Fisher said:
View attachment 2524040View attachment 2524041
Excited to share photos of this project with Baker Forge in NC. I approached them at the beginning of the year about making some stainless core Copper Mai material and they jumped right on the idea and knocked it out of the park. These are the final samples after several test bars, the first blade is a nitro-v core and the second is aeb-l core. I believe their first production run of these materials will be released next week.
Click to expand...
How much of their steel have you used Joshua? I've got a buddy who has tried multiple pieces for high end blades he makes and all of them have had issues with delams...curious if you have had any issues
 
REK Knives said:
How much of their steel have you used Joshua? I've got a buddy who has tried multiple pieces for high end blades he makes and all of them have had issues with delams...curious if you have had any issues
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I’ve not had any issues with their production runs personally but I do know they have refined their process considerably in even the last few months to produce cleaner material. The first test bar of this material had some minor issues that we worked out and fixed on subsequent bars.
 
Not my usual, can't wait to get back to kitchen knives & choppers but a little 1095 (questional grade Amazon steel as it was a Christmas present) with brass and black micarta guard and antler (its Back straps were venison wellington for New Years). Some 52100 with Carbon fiber/Sugar Maple with hidden pins. Plus some inhouse leather work.
latest knives.jpglatest knives handle & tang.jpg
 
not quite a knife but was fun making and it does have a sharp pointy thing on one end so close enuf,Right?
 

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Found an old engineer/machinist hammer and decided to modify it and bring it back to life as a carbide straightening hammer. Shrunk down the original handle that had a large split at the top. It looks like the original face was likely forge welded on to the hammer head and had a big chunk broken off so this seemed like a fitting use for what otherwise would have been a decoration.
 
I am going to have a forge about, going old school.
Found a pair of old Volvo (Swedish steel?) rear springs/ 14mm dia should give small billets 30x5 or 25x6, plenty big enough to get a blacksmiths knife or small utility blade, maybee even a Puukko. I will give them a couple of quench temperatures and hardness test them at 790, 800, 810, 820 see what comes out before temper. I have been readin an old book about quenchant and I fancy trying water gathered at midnight from condensation on a mirror at the first full moon after the spring equinox. :)
Owd springs.jpg
I know there are a hundred reasons why I should not be doing this but I have not swung a hammer for 40+ years so the practice will do me good. No excuse I know. I also have a bit of 3mm MS bar so might try a sandwich as well.
 
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