What's happening in the David Mary Custom shop?

Would one of the pins be hollow for a lanyard? I just like them when swinging hard or when tired.
 
So here's what I'm going to do. Jarod has some .186" 80CRV2 he's cutting soon. That is still pretty thick, and would work well for this design. I'm going to piggyback some Sylvans XL on this cut. It will be a new steel for me to try, one suitable to big knives, and heat treated by the best.
 
David Mary said:
So here's what I'm going to do. Jarod has some .186" 80CRV2 he's cutting soon. That is still pretty thick, and would work well for this design. I'm going to piggyback some Sylvans XL on this cut. It will be a new steel for me to try, one suitable to big knives, and heat treated by the best.
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Curious as to what you think of it, I've used it on a few.....?
 
I made a Gavko Excalibur clone out of it before I was doing this for my bread. I chopped with it. It was tough. But I didn't like the Excalibur design for chopping, too much shock transferred into my hand.
 

What is your chess rating? Fav opening? Wanna play?

Good evening friends. I am not a good chess player, but I enjoy it very much. I like the mental exercise, and lately have been researching a bit more, and my rating on chess.com has been improving steadily this month. There is no shortage of chess partners on chess.com, but I think it would...
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David Mary said:
I made a Gavko Excalibur clone out of it before I was doing this for my bread. I chopped with it. It was tough. But I didn't like the Excalibur design for chopping, too much shock transferred into my hand.
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I've had a lone experience with a 20" blade in 5160, that shot surprising amounts of vibration up into my palms and wrists if I chopped any wood with it. It helped to reduce the effect if I worked with the edge closer to the handle, but not completely.

But, I have other various 5160 choppers, in 9.5" to 12" range, that don't transfer energy into my hands much at all, or it's minimal enough to not notice for long periods of time. I suspect there is a point of no return when it comes to long edges/blades, that once crossed produces greater shock conducted to the hand...may be a sweet spot/length for chopping harder materials?

Other factors effected my example: blade stock was a 1/4" and had silly thick primary and secondary bevels. By the time one gets to the edge (that is sharp) it's almost like pushing a cold chisel through material...in use, great force was needed to yield very minimal material processing for the effort. Design, heat treat, geometry, must all play respective roles I imagine.

Sharpened pry-bar if there ever was one - I still have this big knife/sword. It's well made, just fails at tasks related to cutting/chopping.
 
The Excalibur example was too long and narrow a blade with too long a handle making the pivot point too far forward with not enough mass to create the required momentum for efficient chops.
 
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