What's happening in the David Mary Custom shop?

David Mary said:
Before shipping today, I put some cord on your sheath that will suit belt carry. You won't need a clip. But if you decide a clip is better for you, the cord will come off easily enough, and the hole spacing should allow you to use just about any clip you choose. The basketweave Holstex I used for your sheath in stock is a little thinner than the .08" Boltaron I normally use, so the retention isn't white knucke. I recommend vertical carry with the handle pointing up, rather than upside down carry (like on a pack, or CMFTW carry), as running or jumping may jostle it enough to come out of the sheath.
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okay i’ll keep that in mind, i figure i’ll end up setting up a kind of drop leg setup for it so i have full range of motion climbing and or fighting zombies
 
C Corey.L I like to use pull-the-dot straps. I have had good experiences using them for vertical carry, although I usually use them for horizontal carry.
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I really like them because they are quick to detach without having to remove a belt and are very secure when snapped.
 
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Original (2022):

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Update (2024):

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18" tall, blade is now 4.5" cutting edge up from about 4" on the prototype. Won't be MagnaCut this time. Probably AEB-L at 58 HRC in around .140" stock. Wood handle scales to keep the weight and price down as much as possible.
 
Thanks guys!

Not sure yet on quantity. I’m still thinking about the next run and what exactly will be included.

By the way the prototype belongs to a firefighter who told me he uses it on the job. It feels great knowing something I made is helping to keep people safe.
 
Oh, and the K-Slick Micro. Which doesn't exist yet. The Mustelid Scouts and Ultralight series along with the as yet unnamed fourth one from the bottom now have a squared off blade shapes to allow me to customize blade shapes to order. Looking to do the neck knives in stainless, probably AEB-L and MagnaCut. Was gonna just do Ultralights as a squared off blank, but I will do that and also the Spear Point, Sheepsfoot, Pseudo Clip Point and Persian, because I don't want to have to cut jimping by hand on them, and the square blank will not accommodate the correct position of the jimping.

As we speak, I am lining up the horseshoes with the spine curve of the Persian, after which I will delete the curve and reconnect the horseshoes.

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Thanks Andrew, that's the K-Slick Micro I mentioned. 😁

Doing CAD files is much faster for me now than when I started. I can make a CAD file for most fixed blade designs within a few minutes. BUT!!

Jimping is one thing that can still take a while. So I created a jimping file that is basically just one and half inches of jimping along a straight edge, and I can add it where needed. However, some knives, like the Persian version of the Ultralight Necker have unique curves, requiring some TLC to get everything lined up and looking good. Here is a little video for you, showing how lining up the jimping on that one knife easily triples the amount of time that would otherwise be needed to plot a few simple lines and tangent arcs.

 
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