What's so special about a bushcraft knife?

runningboar, I agree with your economic theory, that's what I would do. But I suspect that guys who buy Busses, especially several of them, probably don't buy surplus gear. Y'know?

It's apples and oranges, people... apples and oranges.
 
Or in my case, I had all the essential gear. Time to move on to "want" gear, since "need" gear is taken care of. ;)
 
Time to get back to the original question and end this bickering. Stick with the facts guys and avoid any personal attacks.
 
In my opinion there is one Busse knife model that's fairly good in the woods: BATAC. It's probably partly a personal preference but it's perfect size with good efficient blade profile and a decent handle. I certainly wouldn't call it a bushcraft knife because it was not designed to be one and it lacks some desirable characteristics while having some that indicate another usage. I do have handle problems with several other Busse models.

As to the lack of guards with typical bushcraft knives, the hand slipping towards blade is a problem that I have certainly witnessed but it is far more rare in comparison to uncomfortable handles that develop hot spots and pinch and bruise the hand and chew the skin in heavy use. This with the common problem of hand sliding off backwards from the handle in heavy chopping is far more common.
 
Many of the socalled bushcraft knives are within 3 - 5 inch blade length range but I would not restrict bushcraft knife terminology based on blade length but rather the usability for the intended tasks.

And I see no reason for them to necessarily have a scandi or convex grind either.

With that in mind some may define a "bushcraft knife" a little too narrow.
 
Last edited:
It was getting too serious...and as a half-naked Canadian lumberjack with an ever-present stripper I prefer the direction you alluded to above!
 
spread-g040.gif
 
Wow, what a thread :D Now back on track!

I think a decent survival knife should have 4"-6" blade. Thats plenty to cut down wrist thick trees for shelter, but small enough to carve a survival-spoon with. 3" blade is enough for almost everything else, but it limits batoning. I personally have not found any need for a sword- or machete-like blade in the woods, but I have to confess that the environment I usually hike in is not a rain forest. Finger guards is something Ive never understood, and even though Ive cut myself more than I can count, Ive never had my hand slip to the blade due to the lack of a guard. It might happen though, if the handle is made from some slippery material. But with an oiled curly birch handle - no way. And I can stab all I want, if I need to.

Those Busses look cool, by the way. Id like to buy one and hang it on my wall, but they seem to be pretty expensive... :grumpy:

ps. Please dont hammer knives in live trees. Not very bushcrafty :D
pps. Just in case you do hammer your knife to a tree... how are you gonna get it out? :confused:
 
attej said:
ps. Please dont hammer knives in live trees. Not very bushcrafty :D
pps. Just in case you do hammer your knife to a tree... how are you gonna get it out? :confused:
Click to expand...

I'm no expert on pounding knives into trees but I think the way it is done is not tip first. Its edge first battoned into the tree.

misanthropist said:
Why...interested?
Click to expand...

Sorry, no cash for the g-string. I think I have a couple Loonies around here somewhere though.:p
 
attej said:
Wow, what a thread :D Now back on track!

I think a decent survival knife should have 4"-6" blade. Thats plenty to cut down wrist thick trees for shelter, but small enough to carve a survival-spoon with. 3" blade is enough for almost everything else, but it limits batoning. I personally have not found any need for a sword- or machete-like blade in the woods, but I have to confess that the environment I usually hike in is not a rain forest. Finger guards is something Ive never understood, and even though Ive cut myself more than I can count, Ive never had my hand slip to the blade due to the lack of a guard. It might happen though, if the handle is made from some slippery material. But with an oiled curly birch handle - no way. And I can stab all I want, if I need to.

Those Busses look cool, by the way. Id like to buy one and hang it on my wall, but they seem to be pretty expensive... :grumpy:

ps. Please dont hammer knives in live trees. Not very bushcrafty :D
pps. Just in case you do hammer your knife to a tree... how are you gonna get it out? :confused:
Click to expand...


The only time I've needed a machete is when I've gotten myself set on a certain direction and gotten in deep enough to where clearing a path through thorns and vines was faster than going around. Usually you can avoid a situation where a Machete comes in real handy... but sometimes... they can be life savers. I've got a big 24" barteaux (Spelling) and it's a wonderful machete. I highly suggest that brand if you're looking for a good machete.
 
I wanted to add that I'm not saying that a Busse knife makes a good bushcraft knife. Apparently a BC Knife excels at carving wood most directly due to it's thin blade and edge geometry. I'm interested to try out a BC knife (Got one on order) as well as some wood carving tools that I've ordered to see which can perform these BC tasks to my liking. I'm not gonna try carving a spoon... but some of the other trap and fire making tasks I've seen them do interest me. Early on what started me in was the thought that a Busse didn't make a good wilderness knife... that being a different set of needs to a BC Knife is what a lot of this has been about. But I just wanted to make it clear that I wasn't suggesting that a Busse is the perfect BC knife. My Mean Street doesn't do fine carving for crap. But it does 99% of general cutting chores in the woods like nobody's business. But what might end up happening is I wind up packing a larger busse and a smaller wood carving tool of some sort... or perhaps a set of them if they pack easily.
 
Just in case anyone is curious... I ordered a Mora 740 cause it had a carbon steel blade. I also got something called a 120... it's a little carvers knife with a 2" blade... I may toss them both iny pack but I'm gonna try them out to see how they do with some simple wood working tasks.
 
Steel-Junky said:
Just in case anyone is curious... I ordered a Mora 740 cause it had a carbon steel blade. I also got something called a 120... it's a little carvers knife with a 2" blade... I may toss them both iny pack but I'm gonna try them out to see how they do with some simple wood working tasks.
Click to expand...

Peace bro;)
They are both light enough for carrying in the pack for sure. I still think that a thin Gamewarden is a fine knife for the woods..I like the short wide blade, and even though the handle is small, it seems very comfortable to me. I also think that the Sarsquatch is an awesome camp knife! I am thinking about getting a Mora hooked knife, actually..that and the draw knife..I feel like having those 2 items in your pack as well as a full blown trio, Campknife, Bushcraft style and an Axe..you would be all set for just about anything that comes up. And I dont think that the 2 Moras even weighs a pound combined.
Even though I gave you a hard time, I actually carry more gear than is probably necessary. I always have 2 blades, 2 ways to start fire(usually 4) and extra socks...not to mention, a really big first aid kit..you can never have to much first aid gear.
 
gunknifenut said:
Peace bro;)
They are both light enough for carrying in the pack for sure. I still think that a thin Gamewarden is a fine knife for the woods..I like the short wide blade, and even though the handle is small, it seems very comfortable to me. I also think that the Sarsquatch is an awesome camp knife! I am thinking about getting a Mora hooked knife, actually..that and the draw knife..I feel like having those 2 items in your pack as well as a full blown trio, Campknife, Bushcraft style and an Axe..you would be all set for just about anything that comes up. And I dont think that the 2 Moras even weighs a pound combined.
Even though I gave you a hard time, I actually carry more gear than is probably necessary. I always have 2 blades, 2 ways to start fire(usually 4) and extra socks...not to mention, a really big first aid kit..you can never have to much first aid gear.
Click to expand...

I looked at that hooked knife but I'm not sure about a sheath and I'd hate for that thing to cut it's way through my expensive pack.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top