Whats The Forums Opinion Of Mad Dog?

Oh, good, another flaming Mad Dog thread! Reading through all of this made me wonder what was going on at the Mad Dog forum; interesting stuff over there! Am I allowed to quote posts from that forum? I hope so, because this one's too good not to share!

Originally posted by Mad Dog:
The chanting, wild dancing and sacrificing that goes on when I am birthing a Panther is top secret, and is intended to create a certain hemotropism and dedication to purpose in the blade. A lot of energy goes into this, and it is very tiring.
I am pleased to observe that it seems to be working. I would hate to think that all of my efforts to install a soul in these blades was for naught.

The following is dead serious, and it really works if you take it seriously:

To sanctify the knife for yourself, and keep it from biting you all of the time, you need to let it KNOW that you are it's owner/master. Cover the knife completely in your own blood the next time you cut yourself with it, intentionally or otherwise.
Cutting yourself with it intentionally is better to a degree, but any cut by that knife will do.
While rubbing your blood into the knife, tell the knife that it belongs to you, and that it must serve you faithfully. Tell it that you are willing to bleed for it, and that it must respect you and serve you well. Leave the blood on the knife during the chat, and then clean it thoroughly.

This blood bath will serve to slake the blade's thirst for your blood, and focus it's fell intentions elsewhere.
NOTE: If you do not take this seriously, the knife won't either.

I do this with my own Panthers and other fighters, and sometimes with the more bloodthirsty of the utility pieces.

Sure, the preceeding sounds weird, but hey, it works. My Fighting Knives are instruments of destruction, death; and ultimately of rebirth. There is a lot going on there that doesn't meet the eye.

Bear in mind that when I quench a blade, the quench medium is comprised of my own blood to a signifigant degree, and there is a very real and yet difficult to explain effect from this blood quench. It is hard to quantify until you have owned one of the knives, but one thing that all of my customers tell me is that their Mad Dogs feel more alive than other knives.


[This message has been edited by Mad Dog (edited 04-18-2000).]


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For the wages of sin is death; but the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord.

Romans 6:23


 
Hmmmm...lemme see now...
Mad Dog Panther-
10 inch O-1 flat ground blade
9+ month wait time
$900+

Jerry Hossom Millenium Black-
13.5 inch CPM-3V hollow ground blade
4+ month wait time
About $600

Guess which one I own?

Tom
 
Was it my imagination or did someone mention a "ghillie suit" ??????
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Bob
 
Given a choice I'll go with a Brend (better yet a Randall at 1/3 the price).

Man if he has spilled enough blood to cover a knife this size he should be using his time to get to the nearest hospital ...

 
Mad Dog's sense of humor is no indictment on the quality of his knives. The man is not nicknamed Mad Dog for no reason. The same enthusiasm for knives and their creation that gives rise to flights of fancy manifests itself in more practical ways in his products.
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A far more informational thread currently running on the Mad Dog Knives forum can be read by clicking here:

MD Knives too hard?? Yes!!!

I do not own a Panther either, though I am a student of the bowie knife, and own several from another maker. $900 is too much for me. BUT...I have handled several Panthers, and they are amazing knives. A more nimble 10" blade, I have not experienced. The price of a Panther is simply a matter of supply and demand.
 
Marion :

The glue bond of a mortise tang handle- Does anyone really believe that this is going to come loose?

If it is not compromised no, glues can easily have bond strengths exceeding 200 lbs per square inch. However the issue with the bond has always been when it gets rusted. Rusting will take coatings off as it will either go underneath or right through them. MD's HC is not one of the more corrosion resistant coatings, it is simply for looks being highly wear resistant. If the bond gets broken by rust there is nothing keeping the handle on.

As an example, my Busse Combat Basic #7 has the grip starting to open a little bit around the top, about a half a mm or so ( I have been beating on the grip intentionally letting it impact the wood when chopping etc.). Water can go down in that spacing. Once it starts to rust it will push out against the grip (rust causes a volume expansion) and increase water penetration, its a cyclic process. However even if the tang becomes very rusted there are two bonding elements which will aid in retention, the tang shape itself and the laynard hole eyelet.

How long will this take in normal use? Well M-INFI doesn't rust very quickly and a flushing with water and drying would probably prevent it from ever being an issue. However for some this might not be possible so the summer I am planning to lend the blade to my brother (who does a lot of salt water swimming) and instruct him not to do any preventative cleaning. Assuming it lasts until the fall without the handle coming off (and I assume it will), I will probably cut it off and examine the tang.

And since it does so at the juncture of the handle, isn't that where the stresses of use are going to focus, just ahead of where the force is applied by the hand?

The stress will be concentrated at the point of maximum difference, but yes, in general you don't want rapid angle changes. This was one of the reasons that MD said that he had such an extended choil, it is ironic then that he puts two large weaknesses just beneath it, but of course no one can see them there.

-Cliff
 
Originally posted by Steve Harvey:
Mad Dog's sense of humor is no indictment on the quality of his knives.

I'm not saying anything about the knives, as I have no experience, but man that blood/soul thing is just way beyond hype... I don't even know what it is. I certainly didn't get the impression he was kidding. Actually he said he was dead serious.

Originally posted by Steve Harvey:
The same enthusiasm for knives and their creation that gives rise to flights of fancy manifests itself in more practical ways in his products.
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You mean like the blood quench?
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All in good fun...
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Ryan

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For the wages of sin is death; but the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord.

Romans 6:23




[This message has been edited by Ryan Meyering (edited 04-19-2000).]
 
Mad Dog knives have a hole through the tang. Epoxy fills that hole, and bonds to the handle material on each side. This forms what is referred to as an epoxy rivet, which is commonly believed to be approximately as strong as the G-10 it is bonded to. Abuse forceful enough to break the rivet would do severe damage to the handle. So not only must the unoiled or Tuff Clothed Mad Dog knife be soaked in some highly corrosive medium such as sea water for days, weeks, or months to allow capillary action to completely penetrate and corrode the tang, but some severe shock must be applied in the range of magnitude of thousands of pounds per square inch to break the epoxy rivet before the handle can come off.

At that point, would you have enough blade left to care whether it had a handle or not?

Hard chrome is not merely for looks. I took my Lab Rat salt water salmon fishing last summer, and it spent ten days on the beach, and several days in the boat. It resisted corrosion much better than the oxide treated 52100 blade I also carried. People do regularly dive with Mad Dog knives, and with a reasonable amount of care, they function well.

Cliff, with all due respect to the most valuable knife testing resource on the planet, sending your brother swimming in salt water with an unprotected knife is not the most meaningful thing you could do. It is like driving two cars without oil to see which one siezes first. Any non-stainless steel knife blade used in wet conditions needs care, or it will rust. The edge will be gone long before the handle, so some sort of rust prevention is simply a must. It would be far more useful to know if the tang would rust even with the blade and blade-handle junction wiped regularly with Marine Tuff Cloth.

Cliff wrote:
"The stress will be concentrated at the point of maximum difference, but yes, in general you don't want rapid angle changes. This was one of the reasons that MD said that he had such an extended choil, it is ironic then that he puts two large weaknesses just beneath it, but of course no one can see them there."

Are you refering to the shoulders that the gaurd butts against? I believe those are an almost universal feature of knife tangs when a guard is fitted. Correct me if I am wrong. The weakness of a blade is at the plunge cut in front of the handle, not at the gaurd where the tang is full thickness. The extended choil allows for a gradual plunge which distributes the stress. I am afraid I am missing the irony, unless it is that a feature that is found on most or all knives with a guard is somehow a fault on a Mad Dog knife. That would be ironic.
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[This message has been edited by Steve Harvey (edited 04-19-2000).]
 
Steve :

some severe shock must be applied in the range of magnitude of thousands of pounds per square inch to break the epoxy rivet before the handle can come off.

Which is why that Chris John's friend was able to snap off a FF by doing a blade slap on the handle. He obviously exerted several thousand pounds of pressure on the flats of the blade.


Hard chrome is not merely for looks.

The type MD is using is, read the references that Cobalt posted well over a year ago on MD forum.


Any non-stainless steel knife blade used in wet conditions needs care, or it will rust. The edge will be gone long before the handle, so some sort of rust prevention is simply a must.

This is simply false, as I have described in the forums, I have done many times, extended soaks in salt water baths with various steels as well as examined the long term effects of field corrosion stresses without protectants. Edges will continue to cut long after surface rusting sets in and coating start to be knocked off. In regards to sharpening, depending on the type of degredation which is steel specific, the edge can easily be brought back to very high performance with a diamond rod in a few passes, this I have also described before.

It would be far more useful to know if the tang would rust even with the blade and blade-handle junction wiped regularly with Marine Tuff Cloth.

No it won't, I have done that already.


sending your brother swimming in salt water with an unprotected knife is not the most meaningful thing you could do.

It is to the people who have asked for the information including the maker. When Jerry gave me the Basic he specifically asked me to take it to failure and describe the results - which impressed the hell out of me. As well, I have friends who are divers and avid salt water swimmers (tropics as well as around here) and want to know exactly what will happen if they treat a Basic like a Stainless or even Talonite blade. Will it instantly fall apart? No. Well how long will it take? I don't know - I will after this summer. Is this of no interest to you - maybe, but there are other people out there Steve. Rusting is of no importance at all for me personally as I don't ever leave blades unprotected however I don't do blade reviews purely for myself - if I did some would be very short indeed.

Is there a knife with a guard that doesn't have them?

Yes :

http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum32/HTML/000551.html

-Cliff
 
Steve, hard chrome is not a corrosion protectant coating and it never has been. It is an abreasion resistant coating or bonding process. It offers corrosion resistance due to it's hardness level(Rc usually between 70 and 78) and high polishing. It may be better than some oxide coatings, but it is not better than teflon based coatings like Birdsong's Blact-T coating. Birdsongs coating is not as abrasion resistant though and there is the tradeoff. Hard Chrome is used as a supplement to already highly corrosion resistant steels like 304 or 316. These steels will not rust under regular conditions, but under certain caustic cleaning process's they will. The hard chrome increases the wear resistance when caustic cleaning solutions are used. The additional problem with hardchroming knives is that not only will moisture eventually make into the steel, via the surface or the edge, but when it does, you will not see it and it will begin the corrosion process unhindered underneath the steel. Try having some fun removing that! Just as you say there are plenty of people who say that they have never had a problem with rust, there are many that have said the reverse. Rick from mission knives, if I remember correctly, stated that he knew of several ATAK's that had rusted quickly.

So the ATAK will rust and you will not be able to do anything about it when it does. Maybe the reason you do not see it is because it is under the Hard Chrome. There is no possible way you can see it until the chrome starts flaking off. If it's a good chrome job, and I'm sure it is, it may take a long while before the HC starts to flake off. How long? who knows? Steve, I'm not trying to single MD on this, since I don't like any coatings, including the ones that come on Busse and all other knives. They are worthless. I'd rather have a clear coat finish, like tuff cloth or similar, so that I can see the rust begin to develope. My problem with HC is that I cannot remove it myself if it's done right, so consequently I don't buy the knife.

I am sure, or at least hope, that hydrogen embrittlement is not an issue with those knives.
 
Hmmmm... I'm wondering if this is going to go for the all time longest (and unlocked?
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) thread. Geez, 5 pages so far?!

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iktomi
 
The moderator lurks in the background
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Spark can decide if bandwidth is being eaten, but the division of these threads into multiple pages makes them manageable.

I remember reading an article years ago in the "Valley" section of the Los Angeles times about swordmaker "Demented Jim" Hrisoulas when he used to live and work in southern California. Some of his customers, for their own arcane reasons, now and then wanted blades that had been quenched in blood, and so he had an arrangement with a butcher to supply beef blood for the purpose.

For blades with a real "blood blessing" from an old and continuing religious and cultural tradition, read this page on Bishwakarma Puja.


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- JKM
www.chaicutlery.com
AKTI Member # SA00001
 
Well, having lurked on this forum for some time and having read most of the MD threads here as well as a few on KF (when MD was still there) I evaluated what I wanted in a knife, and MD seemed to fit the bill. And so did many other knives. So which one(s) to choose?

No one that I have ever seen in these forms has ever said Mad Dog knives had poor ergonomics. Several have tested, and many more have questioned, the durability of his blades. But to my knowledge, no one has said he makes an outright bad blade, either.

So what we have seems to be a terrific handle, glued by what may be less than ideal means, to a less than ideally designed tang on a less than ideal blade, both in terms of steel selection and tempering.
As Steve noted above, it may be a compromise, but it is the compromise Mad Dog thinks best for what he is trying to do.

So far, so good. So why the endless fascination with Mad Dog knives? From what I have read, it isn't really the knives. The knives are, by all accounts okay to great, depending on whom you ask. The problems arise when the people who say they are okay start to disagree with those who say they are great. But we don't have these discussions about Camillus, Spyderco, etc. etc.
I think the problem is cost vs worth.

Let me put it this way. If some forum member who collects beer cans, spends over $100 for an empty beer can and Cliff comes along and tests the edge of his new Wunderwacker by slicing it cleanly in half, said forum member would probably like to try the same thing on Cliff. For one member, it's just an empty beer can, for another, it's a collector item. There are two distinct sets of "worth" at work here.

Notice, however, that the above scenario does not address the "functionality" of an empty beer can. Mad Dog knives have been tested and found nearly indestructable by some, sorely lacking by others. But the same could be said for Benchmade. So what gives? In my opinion, it is because Mad Dog knives have an exaggerated sense of "worth" in relation to their apparent performance and construction.

Let me explain. If the forum member with the $100 beer can is later told be another forumite that the can is worth only $23.50, there may be hurt feelings, denial, disbelief, accusations, justifications, etc. etc. In short, there is going to be a sharp disagreement on whether the can is "worth it." Certainly, it was worth it to the person who bought it at the time. And most people do not like having their opinions openly challenged, especially when the challenge is supported by corroborating evidence.

Now, what do I mean when I say that Mad Dog knives have an exaggerated sense of worth? When Mike and Spark conducted their tests, no one seemed overly surprised by most of the results. Then several excuses were given, and allegations made about the veracity of the test and so on and so on about why the ATAK didn't finish first. Apparently, reality didn't fit with hype, so reality had to be adjusted.

Cliff's tests with the TUSK clearly showed that the one-steel-one-temper fits all philosophy adopted by MD is clearly inadequate for the wide range of knives they make. Certainly, the Panther may be a great, even the greatest, fighting blade out there. But why make a utility blade of the same steel and to the same hardness? And yet "the T.U.S.K can do, and has done, it all."
http://www.mdenterprise.com/tusk.htm

Just don't do it too hard, or you'll probably void the warranty.

The ATAK? Well, it "is excellent for all-around utility. ... with exceptional durability for prying and chopping."
http://www.mdenterprise.com/atak.htm

And apparently, can be used as a diving board, chin-up bar, and can put a sunroof in your car if you really want. Or maybe the edge chips and the point deforms when the knife is abused.

Certainly, Mad Dog makes good knives. Whether they are great knives is a matter of opinion. The tests I have seen don't bear that out. Unfortunately, when someone points out their shortcomings, they are as often as not flambe'd or, depending on the forum, simply deleted. No disagreement, no problem. In my opinion, MD's are over-hyped and over priced. Are they worth it to me? Obviously not. They may be worth it to someone who has used one and found it satisfactory, or who likes the ergonomics, or who has just plain bought the hype along with the knife.

In my post above, I was alluding to the original poster's question, "are there knives that give you more bang for the buck." The answer is yes.
http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/001219.html
http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum3?HTML/001214.html

Want to see a similar test of a Mad Dog Panther? So would I. But since I culdn't find one, I bought the Hossom instead. For 2/3 the money of a Panther I have a knife in a steel I trust more, from a maker I trust more. The MD's just aren't worth it to me.

If you have a Mad Dog, or want one, or have one on order, by all means, have fun with it, cherish it, and I hope it is serves you well.
Just don't be surprised if Cliff bisects it like a $100 (or $300 or $900) beer can.

Tom
 
So lets see. Hard chrome does not prevent corrosion. It is just on there for looks (I'm trying to follow the reasoning). It looks good, it looks good because it is rusty, no shiny. It is shiny because it is rusty, no wrong, it is shiny because it is not rusty. Oh, I give up. I will stipulate that hard chrome actually causes rust, but for some strange reason, just not on my knives. It is a good thing I keep them dry or coated.

As far as the guard shoulders, the Busse has an integral guard, if it can be said to have a guard at all. My point was: of knives with guards, those shoulders are almost universal. You can't imply that Mad Dog is hiding a flaw in his design in the form of shoulders for the guards without implying the same thing about almost every custom knife with a guard I've ever seen, probably almost every one in existence. That is simply the way it is done.

[This message has been edited by Steve Harvey (edited 04-19-2000).]
 
Originally posted by Steve Harvey:
So lets see. Hard chrome does not prevent corrosion.

Partially correct. Hard chrome that 100% covers the surface of an appropriate steel will help, in small measure, prevent corrosion.

Since you can't 100% hard chrome knives (that pesky edge), there is an area of attack for corrosion to get in through.

It is just on there for looks (I'm trying to follow the reasoning).

IMHO? Yep. Abrasion resistance wise it does a great job - it probably handles scratches a lot better visually than many of the coatings out there. But don't confuse looks with protection.

It looks good, it looks good because it is rusty, no shiny. It is shiny because it is rusty, no wrong, it is shiny because it is not rusty. Oh, I give up. I will stipulate that hard chrome actually causes rust, but for some strange reason, just not on my knives. It is a good thing I keep them dry or coated.
You'd probably be better off storing them in a hermetically sealed vault...
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If you are vigilant, then you shouldn't have a problem with corrosion - hopefully. Coating the knife with Marine Tuf-Cloth liberally after each use; flushing any corrosive agents from it after use, etc etc.

Pretty interesting arguement though...

Spark

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Kevin Jon Schlossberg
SysOp and Administrator for BladeForums.com

Insert witty quip here
 
TomF,

Welcome to the forums. Good to see you have decided to join in and post a few.

I agree with most of what you have said. But I would like to add that for some people (myself excluded) the Mad Dog product may be an ideal knife. We do not use knives the same way. We do not use them in the same environment. We certainly do not use them with the same skill or experience.

Not everyone depends on an expensive hunting (o.k. fighting?) knife to chop wood.

So, having said that, I'll leave this question with you; are there a set of conditions under which this knife would provide exceptional performance?

 
yeehaa... or whatever

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walk in tradition just because it feels good!!!!!
Remember amatures built the ark.... Professionals built the Titanic!!!
Romans 10:9,10
Hebrews 4:12-16
Psalm 91
 
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