What's the strongest a fixed blade can be without weighing too much?

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If you are up at 4 am thinking of topics like this, do yourself a favor and buy one of these and be done with it...
shopping
 
RX-79G said:
What's the strongest a fixed blade can be without weighing too much?
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Pretty frickin' strong IMHO; not sure what unit of measurement would be used to state the actual value though...

I have a custom with a 1/2" thick, almost full flat ground blade in A8 modified tool steel; it only weighs 55 ounces and is crazy strong. :thumbup::cool:
 
None of those broke doing anything a knife should be doing. I can jump my car Dukes of Hazard style off a bridge, when it breaks, was it a weak car?
 
Czechmate said:
Pretty frickin' strong IMHO; not sure what unit of measurement would be used to state the actual value though...

I have a custom with a 1/2" thick, almost full flat ground blade in A8 modified tool steel; it only weighs 55 ounces and is crazy strong. :thumbup::cool:
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ONLY 55oz?! :eek: I think that's more than my preferred hiking blade, axe and folding saw combined!

Bet it's a freakin' blast to destroy things with, though.
 
Insipid Moniker said:
ONLY 55oz?! :eek: I think that's more than my preferred hiking blade, axe and folding saw combined!

Bet it's a freakin' blast to destroy things with, though.
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LOL, it has a 14" blade and yeah; it's kinda heavy for anything except car camping. :D

Lots of fun for wrecking stuff though.

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This fascination with "broken" blades is getting out of hand....

Maybe it's time to get into something other than knives. Or perhaps understand that maybe there is really a better tool for some of these tasks.
Also, the sample size here means Zero (just like your last thread on 1095)
These may be attributed to manufacturing errors that happen.

I beat the hell out of my knives, and I have yet to break anything in any steel (I have used just about everything) besides the tip on a 3V blade. (My fault entirely)

There is a limit here, and I am not sure if the real question here (and your last few threads) is "where is that limit" ??
 
marcinek said:
Well...we are all not from planet Craypton like you, are we? :D

But, you take a thick, strong/tough steel, eliminate stress risers, dont put holes in it...and it becomes less likely to break.

Take the same design, give it a greater cross sectional area (for example, by making it thicker), and it becomes even less likely to break.

Of course that increase in cross sectional area means more metal, and more weight. You could go on without upper limits.

Now where this "weighing too much" limit that the OP proposes is...who knows? (He may have the strength of 10 Crayptonians!) So the question becomes meaningless.

Unless the OP clarifies. Which everyone has been asking for since the thread started.
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And what if we even had to...gulp....consider cost? Tough, lite, and cost effective. Can we have it all?
 
marcinek said:
I think one undefined variable at a time (in this case "weighing too much") is enough for me!
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No way man, I say the more the merrier! If we are going to keep doing these threads over and over again we might as well do it right!
 
Apologies, the website didn't work last night, and I'm still getting the timeout error whenever I post more than one line.
 
marcinek said:
Steel is weakest where is cross sectional area is smallest. Bigger cross sectional area=stronger.

Not sure what your question means either. :confused:
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Insipid Moniker said:
Ummm, knives break at the fulcrum because that's how physics works. Tip broke? Probably because it was used to pry, placed the fulcrum at the tip. Knife broke around the ricasso? Probably got batoned with a caveman club, placing the fulcrum at the ricasso.

Material weakness obviously adds to this, but usage and physics are as, if not more, important in determining where a knife will break.
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Annealed tangs help, but any knife can and will get either mangled or broken if enough force is applied to it in the wrong way. In general if you want to keep weight down while still having an exceptionally strong tang, though, a well done tapered tang is usually the best way to go.
 
Did those knives fail because of the specified flaws or because of the way they were being used at the time? If the concept is to eliminate any flaw (in design or execution) or any flaw which could cause failure under any usage, I believe we have an exercise in futility. Just my .02.
 
katanas said:
Did those knives fail because of the specified flaws or because of the way they were being used at the time? If the concept is to eliminate any flaw (in design or execution) or any flaw which could cause failure under any usage, I believe we have an exercise in futility. Just my .02.
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Like a lot of these threads it is all speculation. Those aren't his pictures and those aren't his knives.
 
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