MCM said:
If I need a pry bar, I use one. There is no winner or looser.
True true. However, if I have to switch to a pry bar - that's one more tool to carry about. FOr 'real' prying jobs I use my prybar. But for seperating car parts to get at hook points, or to pull them off or out from other cars they are crashed into, or to pull a window or door frame out just enough to sneak in a tool to pick the lock, etc. a small prybar Strider works very well, and allows me to switch to cutting if the part(plastic, Kevlar, cabling, seatbelts, nylon, etc.) is truly stuck.
Some people appreciate value. If value is being able to do ones work hour to hour, day by day, all with basically one tool that is indestructable and warrantied for life, then that's great value. If you sit at a computer all day long at work and pontificate on-line about $300 knives being too expensive, then few knives will really have value other than cutting slices off the occasional peach - Microtechs work great for that
.
Being able to cut and pry one second to the next is the difference between repoing a car and not to me. I pry with it every day, and I cut with it every day. It works great. The finish is wearing off. But, if you do not wear out the finishes on your knives - regardless of how tough they are, then you really aren't making much use of them, are you? A simple affordable combat knife would work for you and your peaches.
I looked at Striders first for their folders because I didn't want to have to carry a fixed blade, and other folders I was using were dropping left and right. When I tried on an EB, I realized it was nearly invisible and weightless with the well-built sheath it comes with(easily attached and removed from a belt with one hand, yet very secure). Busse knives were too bulky and big. My EB-AC has a 4.5" blade, and is relatively light and flat, yet ergonomic enough to fit the hand well, gloves or not, - never slipping.
I would destroy a Microtech my first day with it. S30V sharpens to a much better edge than 154/134, too. And, of course, can take much more lateral stress(prying).
I personally have seen too many carbon steel blades in the $40-$150 bend and break for me to use one. I am sure people will recall the Carbon V Recon failure thread. While I certainly agree he asked too much of a 'bargain' knife and was perhaps tricked by marketing, I know my Strider could split wood without batting an eye. But why would I split a chunk of wood with my knife when there's plenty of other kindling around I could just break into pieces with my bare hands, I dunno...
Then there's the humidity. Texas sure ain't Utah. Carrying even a stainless steel knife in the summer means you must lightly oil it, and it basically prohibits carrying a carbon blade close to your person. That means you must stick with Stainless or D2, A2 etc. if you want high carbon. While D2 and A2 blades can be great when it comes to rust resistance, they cost nearly the same or more than Strider's S30V blades, and certainly are still more susceptable to rust.
Basically, if you USE your knife(and occaisonally abuse it), you really end up spending $300+ to get one that will last.
WYK
