Which Axe for "my" needs?

S

SR69

Joined
Apr 30, 2012
Messages
238
I've thought carefully before posting this. I've done a couple of searches here and online.
I've looked through The YouTube. But I think that this is the place where I will get the best information.

The Short Version:
I'm looking for a mid-sized axe for wood processing for fires, for making other implements out of wood (tools, weapons, traps, etc...) and for making natural shelters. I'm dancing between either a 20" or a 25". What works best for those tasks? What do you suggest and why? I'm in the Northeastern Woodlands.

My confusion comes from Swedish axes being made for trees specific to Sweden and not being compatible for use in the U.S. (from what I've read in magazines & online) to their being more brittle? Again, I ask with complete ignorance on the matter.

I'm leaning towards the Wetterlings Fine Forester's/Universal Woodsman/Bushman Axe (whatever they are naming it this week), the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe or the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Axe.

Appreciate any input from those of you who've used either or both.

Rough Specs:
Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe: 19" http://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/products/forest-axes/gransfors-small-forest-axe/
Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Axe: 25" http://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/products/forest-axes/gransfors-scandinavian-forest-axe/
Wetterlings Fine Forester's Axe: 23"+ [Wetterlings has no product information on their website regarding their product.]


The More Detailed Version:
I'm ready to buy a good quality Axe now. Of course, Gransfors Bruks and Wetterlings are the top two contenders. I've also seriously considered a Council as well. Because I'm a tool nut in my professional life, tools are very important to me and the quality of the tool is very important to me. I don't want a showpiece, but workhorse.

I don't want something to adorn or to keep to a fine polish and to place on a stand so I can look at it, but I want something that I can get good & dirty and that I can use without any fear of it failing on me. I certainly don't want a primadonna of a tool either (tools that look great, but ain't worth the materials they were made from). I think that the Swedes hit the sweetspot for a tool that is priced fairly for what they offer and have heard mostly good things about them with GB being the standard for comparisons.

I plan to use my axes for wood processing for fires, for making other implements out of wood (tools, weapons, traps, etc...) and for making natural shelters. For the longest time, I thought a 20" axe would be ideal to carry in my pack. Never had one, never used one. I'm more used to using either a 15" hatchet or a 32" full size axe. I came across a 25" axe that I got my hands on (didn't actually use it, but handled it) and I'm thinking that 25" should be the way for me to go. The increase in handle weight is negligible and I feel that the benefits are far greater with the extra length giving me more power and control out of my swing.

I love the Carpenter-like features of the Wetterlings. I think I'd get the most use out of that one and think that it'd be ideal for what I'd want to do, but hearing about Wetterlings experimentation with manufacturing processes and hit & miss quality issues lately has me a little weary truth be told where the GB has a stellar if not near perfect reputation and again, that really matters to me. I think in the end, the GB Scandi would
be the way for me to go if I wanted peace of mind with my purchase, but the Wett I think will always be in the back of my mind haunting me. However, it seems that the Wett fits right in the middle of the pack in size for a nice compromise and the features that will make it (again) more useful.

Whatever I get, I know I will end up modifying (some kind of handle wrap for better grip, staining the handle, wrapping the neck with wire and Gorilla Tape for more strength and overstrike protection, lanyard hole if the one I end up with doesn't come with one)...just like I did with my little $14. Lowe's Kobalt Hatchet Project (but with a much better finished product):

Cheap Hatchet Restoration Project: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ing-a-beat-up-amp-well-worn-tool-back-to-life
Custom Homemade Sheath Project: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/968283-E-Tool-Cover-Hatchet-Sheath
Bushcraft Axe Thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/984824-Survival-Axe-VS-Bushcraft-Axe

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I would get a vintage Kelly or Warren 2 lb boys axe on 28 inch handle - will do whatever U ask and more. Way less than GB or stepson Wetterlings.
 
The flat cheeks of the Swedish imports make for nice carvers. The convex cheeks of an American-style boy's axe make for a better chopper. Take you pick.

wrapping the neck with wire and Gorilla Tape for more strength and overstrike protection
Click to expand...

That make it a lot less comfortable to choke up on for detailed work. Better to just learn to quit making overstrikes.
 
My GB Small Forest Axe has a stupidly thin edge. I've not really used it, lack of time, but I can see it getting damaged trying to chop or split the hardwoods.
 
If you are looking at the GB Scandinavian Forest Axe, check out the Husqvarna Forest Axe- 26" , 2lbs head, forged in Sweden.Scandanavia.whereever all the axes are made, and its about half the price of the GB. I just got one for $70, and am pleased with how it handles. Going out next weekend to test it out.
 
SR69 said:
Because I'm a tool nut in my professional life, tools are very
important to me and the quality of the tool is very important to me. I don't want a showpiece, but workhorse.

I don't want something to adorn or to keep to a fine polish and to place on a stand so I can look at it,
but I want something that I can get good & dirty and that I can use without any fear of it failing on me.
I certainly don't want a primadonna of a tool either (tools that look great, but ain't worth the materials
they were made from).
Click to expand...

In that case you're better off buying an Estwing from Home Depot. They are nearly indestructible.
 
Council boys axe best company to buy axes from if you call them You will most Likely talk to a council. I have used their pulaski's for some time and their are good.
 
It sounds like you need two axes, one for processing firewood (I assume you'll buck with a chainsaw), and one for the other tasks.
 
I would give serious thought to the Husqvarna "Multi-Purpose" Axe. It's 25" in length, and they are currently made by Swedish manufacturer Hults Bruks. They are an excellent performer, for less than 1/2 the price of a GB or Wett.
 
It depends on what you mean by wood processing... If you mean just spitting and maybe a bit of limbing and only taking on fairly low diameter trees, you can get away with a 19-22"er. But if you actually want to fell, limb and process trees, you definitely need a boys axe (25-28"). A 19" is great for its portability and a good length for more bushcraft oriented work, but you can't really get a full two handed swing off with it so its pretty rubbish for serious wood processing.

As for the brand, I'd only pay the premium for GB if you need a super thin face for bushcraft oriented work. Otherwise a wetterlings or husqy (made by HB) would work. Council Tool also offers the FSS which looks like a good working boys axe with a better high centerline (not flat) face for better chopping - though the steel won't be as hard and might need more maintenance. And of course there's always restoring a vintage head..
 
I have a GB forest axe, and it is a nice little axe. Its intended purpose is to limb green trees out. It works great for that! I sometimes think it is easier that using a chainsaw on smaller limbs. Not really intended for splitting or cutting dry wood. I keep it sharp, and I don't use it for chopping roots or stuff like that.
Get a cheaper axe that you can abuse without feeling bad about it.
 
killa_concept said:
Council Tool also offers the FSS which looks like a good working boys axe with a better high centerline (not flat) face for better chopping - though the steel won't be as hard and might need more maintenance.
Click to expand...

If the Council is truly made to Forest Service Specs then it will have a higher carbon content than the GB and with proper heat treat would be superior steel. FSS calls for a minimum of 70 points of carbon. GB uses a steel very similar to 1055.

We've had a few reports of Council FSS boy's axes coming with less than ideal handles but I haven't seen a complaint about the steel yet.
 
Danketch said:
Check out the Husqvarna Forest Axe- 26" , 2lbs head, forged in Sweden
Click to expand...

I've got one of these on order as well. Looks great, and I'm looking forward to testing it out. The Council tool FSS Boys Axe 26" was also a serious contender.
 
SR69, it sounds to me like you want a "bushcraft" axe. I think the GB or Wetterlings axes you listed would serve you well. I personally find that a 20" axe is too short for a great "allarounder." An axe in this category is best sized between 23 to 25 inches for my use. One of my favorite axes is a vintage Swedish head approximately 1.5 pounds on a 23" handle. You can process smallish fire wood and do "bushcraft" activities far more easily with it than the same head on a 20" handle. In my mind, 20 inches is a no man's land. Too long for a carving hatchet, and too short for a small axe.

At any rate, I think you an find a vintage head that will be even better than the GB/Wetterlings in geometry and steel, and then find or make the perfect handle for your use. OR you could order a 1.25# Council hatchet and plan to work it over. It will need a longer handle and some thinning and sharpening of the cutting edge. Those are great options because your financial investment will be much lower while you discover your personal ideals. Lastly, the GB's or Wetterlings will likely serve you well. Remember that they have great warranties should you have any issues. On the down side, they have completely flat profiles which will make less potent for wood processing but still great for bushcrafty stuff. If I were going to order one of the GB/Wetterlings you listed, it would be the GB Scandi Forest axe, hands down.

Good luck!

ETA: Just to be clear, my personal preferences make the vintage option far and away the #1 option, Council being #2, and the GB/Wett #3.
 
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I would still look at something in the traditional boys axe range - u can always choke up but can't add length in the woods.
 
Square_peg said:
If the Council is truly made to Forest Service Specs then it will have a higher carbon content than the GB and with proper heat treat would be superior steel. FSS calls for a minimum of 70 points of carbon. GB uses a steel very similar to 1055.

We've had a few reports of Council FSS boy's axes coming with less than ideal handles but I haven't seen a complaint about the steel yet.
Click to expand...

Well
USFS Standard 5100-9D said:
3.2.1.2 Hardness. The ax bit shall have a hardness of 54 to 58 inclusive on the Rockwell C scale. This
hardness shall extend to a distance of 1-1/4 inches ±1/4 inch back from the cutting edge. Within 1 inch of the
eye of the tool, the steel hardness shall not exceed 45 on the Rockwell C scale. All hardness values shall be
determined as specified in 4.5.1.2. The specified hardness shall extend through the entire thickness of the
tool head steel.
Click to expand...
But...
Council Tool's page for the 2.25# FSS Boy's axe said:
...Council Tool internal standards call for tempered bit hardness of Rc 48-55 and we target 1-1/4 inches from the cutting edge. The poll and eye walls are not hardened and remain in the as forged condition.
Click to expand...

I've used one Council tool axe before and was somewhat disappointed with the edge holding capabilities. The bit seemed to be hardened to ~48-52 HRC from what I could tell after some use and testing with a file... A proper heat treat is almost always more important than the actual steel being used. GB uses a proprietary swedish steel with .55% carbon content - that doesn't necessarily mean it's straight 1055 as there's no mention of other alloying elements that might be present. And even if it were simple 1055, that's perfectly fine by me seeing as though GB heat treats it as well as they do. The higher carbon content of 1075 or 1085 would indeed mean the potential for better edge holding at higher HRCs at the cost of some toughness, but when it's kept softer than 1055 at 57hrc, you're not going to see any of the benefits of the added carbon content. Even adventuresworn makes mention of his disappointment with the council heat treat in one of skogKniv's videos - and he's talking of their velvicut lines (5160) in comparison to GB (supposedly 1055).

That all said, a high hardness and good edge holding isn't really necessary for a tool strictly for felling, bucking, splitting and limbing.. but it does come in handy for bushcraft tasks and finer work like carving and shaping. The same can be said of the flat faced nature of GB's axes. It's a compromise and one I can justify in a boy's axe or smaller where it's intended usage might be just as much for carving and shaping as it is for wood processing. But for a full sized axe that's going to used almost exclusively for the latter, I'd definitely stick with a vintage head with a high centerline for easy release.
 
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You left out this:

3.2.1.1 Steel composition.
The tool head of each type of ax shall be forged from fully killed plain carbon AISI/SAE steel containing 0.72 to 0.93 percent carbon, 0.30 to 0.90 percent manganese, not more than 0.040 percent phosphorus, and not more than 0.050 percent sulfur. Steel composition of the head shall be determined as specified in 4.5.1.1.

If the quality of axe they require could be achieved at 55 points of carbon then the spec would be for 55 points of carbon. Clearly the Forest Service believes that a better axe results with >.72 carbon.
 
Danketch said:
If you are looking at the GB Scandinavian Forest Axe, check out the Husqvarna Forest Axe- 26" , 2lbs head, forged in Sweden.Scandanavia.whereever all the axes are made, and its about half the price of the GB. I just got one for $70, and am pleased with how it handles. Going out next weekend to test it out.
Click to expand...

I looked at the difference. I'm sure both steels used are adequate, either comparatively or respectively (on price point). But I can definitely say the Husqvarna handle is thicker. I prefer the slimmer handles. This boils to personal preference, but should be noted.
 
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