Which Axe for "my" needs?

garry3 said:
I would go file first, but it matters not really. Might try a more durable angle.
It looks like that edge chipped, Is that correct?
Click to expand...

Definitely chipped. In fact, the edge is jagged. Wow. It looks like I tore into some white oak. :o
I think I lost at least 1/32th of an inch from the one section where the edge is still in an original state.

Ninja Edit:
Turns out that my suspicions were correct. Wetterlings ships them sharp, but not for hardwoods.
So, after a little research, it seems that this isn't uncommon for their smaller axes to nick with a factory edge.
Anyway, I'll hit it with the file and puck and see how it turns out. I'll get it back to sharp again, but I'll save
the brutal work for the Council for sure.

Update:
Stropped it against an old belt to get the major burrs off. Ran the file against it about a dozen times each side.
Boom...nicks gone. I worked it a little with the puck and finally the DMT 1200 block, but only to clean up the edge a bit.
Better than factory now. I still would have some more work to do to it to get it "perfect", but as is, she's making curls and
I'm sure it has a much sturdier edge now for splitting & light chopping.

IMAG0575_zps21adc554.jpg
 
Last edited:
I dont know what a realistic edge is but that looks pretty fat to me and I would say its more fragile than it should be so I assume it was burned while sharpening at the factory. I would cut away the edge put a fresh one on and keep the angle it came with, test it and if it dont hold up for the work then maybe increase the angle.
 
KingKoma said:
I dont know what a realistic edge is but that looks pretty fat to me and I would say its more fragile than it should be so I assume it was burned while sharpening at the factory. I would cut away the edge put a fresh one on and keep the angle it came with, test it and if it dont hold up for the work then maybe increase the angle.
Click to expand...

I'd have to disagree - to me it looks a bit too thinned out from factory. I'm talking about the actual edge, not the thickness in the checks. If you look at the actual profile, it looks to have a very flat, only ever so slightly convex grind that terminates at something like 15-20 degrees. Too fragile to hold up to real chopping without a more substantial convex. I know people had the same issue with the Les Stroud bushman axe which is fairly similar in design.

Either way though, the answer would still be the same: sharpen it up at higher angle, forming either a secondary bevel or a thicker, more convexed edge.
 
Disagree with what? My assumption would be that the edge was burned at the factory. To test this I would remove the factory edge, sharpen it at the factory angle and do some work. If it behaves the same after what I assumed was overheated steel is removed I would consider the possibility that the edge is to thin.
 
FYI: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1043815-how-to-sharpen-repair-folded-axe-edge


Obsessed with Edges said:
It appears even the maker might acknowledge the factory edge might be a little thin for some uses. I found this on Wetterling's 'Axe Care' page of maintenance tips (I added the bold emphasis to the last statement in the quote):


( from site -->: http://www.wetterlings.se/the/index....d=63&Itemid=65 )

"SHARPEN
"It is important to keep the axe sharp for safe axe use. If you grind it often, it is easier to remain the shape of the axe, which is important for the function. You preferably use the Wetterlings grinding stone. It is made of sandstone from a stone pit near the factory. The stone gives best result with oil, but water or saliva works well too. To use oil also decreases the risk of rust.
If you are chopping hardwood, you might want to rounden the bevel more to make it less fragile. (...)"
Click to expand...

David
Click to expand...
 
KingKoma said:
So, in what way does that information influence the way you maintain this axe? Do you intend to sharpen it differently because of this?
Click to expand...

I don't know enough about sharpening axes to be able to answer that question.
I posted that information to show a common trait of Wetterlings factory edges
and hardwoods as a possible explanation as to why my edge became so jagged
after working on hardwood (as listed on Wetterling's own site). I'll follow their
suggestions to see how it works out for me. But with all the guessing at what
could be wrong with my blade, I thought an actual reference would at least
offer a possible explanation since there is a record of this happening already.

I don't know anything about axe edges, but I agree with Killa Concept that it
was too thin. That just took common sense for me to arrive at that consensus
before I even found evidence of this being the case in other similar situations
and agreeing with KC's seemingly correct assumption. That was the only logical
reason I could find for it and it turned out to be an accurate assessment it seems.

I'm sure I've mentioned even in my OP that I've heard about Swedish axes
having problems with hardwoods and that was one of my initial concerns.
I think it's clear that Wetterlings' own directions on dealing with hardwoods
discussing shaping the edge in a more blunted manner explains this as well.

:)

Edit: Yes, I did express my concern for Swedish axes "not" meant for certain species of trees...

SR69 said:
My confusion comes from Swedish axes being made for trees specific to Sweden and not being compatible for use in the U.S. (from what I've read in magazines & online) to their being more brittle? Again, I ask with complete ignorance on the matter.

I love the Carpenter-like features of the Wetterlings. I think I'd get the most use out of that one and think that it'd be ideal for what I'd want to do, but hearing about Wetterlings experimentation with manufacturing processes and hit & miss quality issues lately has me a little weary truth be told where the GB has a stellar if not near perfect reputation and again, that really matters to me.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
KingKoma said:
Disagree with what? My assumption would be that the edge was burned at the factory. To test this I would remove the factory edge, sharpen it at the factory angle and do some work. If it behaves the same after what I assumed was overheated steel is removed I would consider the possibility that the edge is to thin.
Click to expand...

Oh I was just saying that it looked more like edge geometry to me - it almost looks like a chisel grind without much convex and it terminates at 15-20 degrees total. Maybe it is burnt, and removing metal would be wise, but even so, I doubt the geometry would hold up to serious chopping
 
The Council came in. Had a nick in the edge, but that was really about it.
Overall, in decent shape (especially for $29.). I worked the nick out of it
already and it's fine now. I think it was a good deal. And I got one of those
nice two-tone handles. I don't know if that makes it a weaker handle or not,
but it's going to look nice once I stain it (maybe with a dark walnut stain).

IMAG0600_zpsa62a9cb1.jpg


IMAG0605_zpsfaaa2855.jpg


IMAG0604_zps301f477d.jpg


IMAG0601_zpscab87e6c.jpg


IMAG0603_zps8265deb4.jpg


IMAG0607_zpsf3519527.jpg
 
Good lookin' axe. That's a shame about the nick but it wouldn't be a big deal to hone out. And for $29 I'd sure keep it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top