Which sharpening system for INFI blades?

TheirProtector618 said:
So you sharpen your blades with the Lansky sharpener?
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Lets re-word that to "I'm learning to sharpen with...." - I've made them sharp is all I will admit to. As soon as I say I did, someone will pull out a microscope and digital angle meter and prove I still don't know crap anything... but I'm learning- I can get them super sharp with the Worksharp belt, but as I said, the angle guide, for someone that's into all these multi angle theories, it's not worth fifty cents. The other thing about it, you sharpen one side belt going away, the other side belt coming in - doesn't seem right to me and keep waiting for the edge to chop it in half. But a tip, it's great for smoothing out canvas micarta handles :D

freehouse32 said:
I have a Russian K02, which can now be purchased stateside.
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Now THAT looks like a big boy sharpener! That is a nice looking system.
 
Leonardo63 said:
Lets re-word that to "I'm learning to sharpen with...." - I've made them sharp is all I will admit to. As soon as I say I did, someone will pull out a microscope and digital angle meter and prove I still don't know crap anything... but I'm learning- I can get them super sharp with the Worksharp belt, but as I said, the angle guide, for someone that's into all these multi angle theories, it's not worth fifty cents. The other thing about it, you sharpen one side belt going away, the other side belt coming in - doesn't seem right to me and keep waiting for the edge to chop it in half. But a tip, it's great for smoothing out canvas micarta handles :D

Now THAT looks like a big boy sharpener! That is a nice looking system.
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I wonder how much that Russian ko2 goes for? This looks very promising.
 
I have had the best edges I have ever gotten come from my Wicked Edge.
I got the kit with 100-200,400-600,800-1000 stones and bought a set of the strops with 1mc and .5mc paste. If changing the edge angle at all I go through all the grits following WE instructions. In place of buying the expensive ceramic stones I wrap wet dry sandpaper around the 1000 grit stone and sharpen using 1200,1500,2000 and 2500 before stropping. Works great and you can change the paper anytime you want.
The one thing I noticed the WE does not say anything about (most likely not a big deal on thin blades) is that with the blade clamp only moving outward on one side you make up that difference by moving the right arm out as many degrees as the thickness of the blade is that you are working on. Most of my folders I do at 19 degrees left arm and 20 degrees right arm.This makes up for the thickness of the blade. My .25 thick Busse I move the right side out an extra 2 degrees to make up for the left side of the clamp not moving. I don't think most would even notice this but after watching a vid where the guy showed how to do this to make sure both sides are perfectly even I am just OCD enough to do it.
 
Leonardo63 said:
I saw one price somewhere, mid 4's - but, what a long looking stroke and meant for big blades.
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I need a few of the big choppers in my life :D. Mid 4's is not bad at all when you can sharpen all your Busse and Kin blades. But seriously, I've invested thousands of dollars in my knife collection, let alone my firearms (SBR's, and suppressors). I need something just as good as my knives to keep everything nice and SHARP.
 
TheirProtector618 said:
I was looking at the WE120. It's only 75 over my budget. I wonder if any of the HOGS have used this model exclusively for their INFI blades.
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I had one in my Amazon cart for days- kept reading and watching videos but backed out when I picked up my DTBM and thought, I know I'll go bigger and then what do I do??? ... but maybe I'm all wrong- It's a brain dead, beautiful, simple concept - Wonder, will it clamp a HOGB8 War Feather accurately? .... and so much discussion about angles out there it all became a bit confusing to me and although I'll experiment to a point 4-500 bones is getting kind of real- especially when it will buy another Busse! LOL! ....
But I'm glad to see this discussion come about because honestly, I take what I learn here and it becomes my gospel because you all know the stuff ~
 
u812 said:
I have had the best edges I have ever gotten come from my Wicked Edge.
I got the kit with 100-200,400-600,800-1000 stones and bought a set of the strops with 1mc and .5mc paste. If changing the edge angle at all I go through all the grits following WE instructions. In place of buying the expensive ceramic stones I wrap wet dry sandpaper around the 1000 grit stone and sharpen using 1200,1500,2000 and 2500 before stropping. Works great and you can change the paper anytime you want.
The one thing I noticed the WE does not say anything about (most likely not a big deal on thin blades) is that with the blade clamp only moving outward on one side you make up that difference by moving the right arm out as many degrees as the thickness of the blade is that you are working on. Most of my folders I do at 19 degrees left arm and 20 degrees right arm.This makes up for the thickness of the blade. My .25 thick Busse I move the right side out an extra 2 degrees to make up for the left side of the clamp not moving. I don't think most would even notice this but after watching a vid where the guy showed how to do this to make sure both sides are perfectly even I am just OCD enough to do it.
Click to expand...

I appreciate your detailed input on this. I'm OCD with my blades also. Busse is a HUGE investment, and I do mean HUGE. I want everything to come out perfect. What would you recommend a newbie like myself to do in regards to the WE? I really can't fork out more than $450, Tops. I just want to get the best bang for my buck. Thanks again for your time
 
I don't remember the model I got. They had them at Blade 2 yeas ago with a discount. Think it was 260.00 out the door. I really thought about it before buying but then it hit me that I am buying 400.00 plus knives and trying to sharpen them on 50.00 sharpeners that I wasn't happy with the results I was getting.
 
Leonardo63 said:
I had one in my Amazon cart for days- kept reading and watching videos but backed out when I picked up my DTBM and thought, I know I'll go bigger and then what do I do??? ... but maybe I'm all wrong- It's a brain dead, beautiful, simple concept - Wonder, will it clamp a HOGB8 War Feather accurately? .... and so much discussion about angles out there it all became a bit confusing to me and although I'll experiment to a point 4-500 bones is getting kind of real- especially when it will buy another Busse! LOL! ....
But I'm glad to see this discussion come about because honestly, I take what I learn here and it becomes my gospel because you all know the stuff ~
Click to expand...

I'm right along with you brother lol. I have 3 HOG B8's on order and would really like a sharpening system that can sharpen from my smallest knife, the Spyderco Delica all the way up to my future Busse big choppers
 
TheirProtector618 said:
I appreciate your detailed input on this. I'm OCD with my blades also. Busse is a HUGE investment, and I do mean HUGE. I want everything to come out perfect. What would you recommend a newbie like myself to do in regards to the WE? I really can't fork out more than $450, Tops. I just want to get the best bang for my buck. Thanks again for your time
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I am very happy with the pro pack 1 with the exception of the strops. I substituted them for 1200 and 1600 ceramic and now feel that it is perfect. Took an SOB with 35 degree bevel and put a 19 degree bevel on it in a half hour, cuts like a dream and the edge holds up just fine. The only thing I have not been able to do is my Spyderco Bushcrafter with a scandi grind of less then 15 degrees. Other than that it is outstanding.
 
u812 said:
I don't remember the model I got. They had them at Blade 2 yeas ago with a discount. Think it was 260.00 out the door. I really thought about it before buying but then it hit me that I am buying 400.00 plus knives and trying to sharpen them on 50.00 sharpeners that I wasn't happy with the results I was getting.
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That's a great price! What's the biggest Busse blade you have sharpened with your WE?
 
Midwest Firecraft said:
I am very happy with the pro pack 1 with the exception of the strops. I substituted them for 1200 and 1600 ceramic and now feel that it is perfect. Took an SOB with 35 degree bevel and put a 19 degree bevel on it in a half hour, cuts like a dream and the edge holds up just fine. The only thing I have not been able to do is my Spyderco Bushcrafter with a scandi grind of less then 15 degrees. Other than that it is outstanding.
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What's the longest blade you've been able to sharpen on the Pro pack 1? Thanks for your help.
 
TheirProtector618 said:
I appreciate your detailed input on this. I'm OCD with my blades also. Busse is a HUGE investment, and I do mean HUGE. I want everything to come out perfect. What would you recommend a newbie like myself to do in regards to the WE? I really can't fork out more than $450, Tops. I just want to get the best bang for my buck. Thanks again for your time
Click to expand...
I just posted before I saw this. I only have 260.00 in the system and I think 50.00 in the strops. The wet dry paper I use is 4 bucks in a variety pack from wal mart. I can get several sharpenings out of the paper before replacing. Matter of fact I just bought my second pack. Here is my first attempt on a Busse, it surprised me how easy it was and how well it came out.
zJ3rgh1.jpg
 
The longest I have done is about 5.5 in. The length doesn't matter. You can do about 6 in or so with the arms on mine,maybe 8 or so depending on how the blade is in the clamp. On long blades you just have to re position the blade to get to the end. In other words sharpen about 6 in of blade at time on each grit. Might take a while but it will get there.
 
u812 said:
I just posted before I saw this. I only have 260.00 in the system and I think 50.00 in the strops. The wet dry paper I use is 4 bucks in a variety pack from wal mart. I can get several sharpenings out of the paper before replacing. Matter of fact I just bought my second pack. Here is my first attempt on a Busse, it surprised me how easy it was and how well it came out.
zJ3rgh1.jpg
Click to expand...
Man that's a sweet job! That's the exact edge that I'm looking for. If you can find the model number for me, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for the pic, it looks great.
 
This thread is really making me regret not pulling the trigger on a WE offered on exchange a few years back for a GREAT price.

I've tried using stones and watched hours of videos, but can't seem to get sharpening by hand. I would honestly pay for in-person lessons!
 
u812 said:
The longest I have done is about 5.5 in. The length doesn't matter. You can do about 6 in or so with the arms on mine,maybe 8 or so depending on how the blade is in the clamp. On long blades you just have to re position the blade to get to the end. In other words sharpen about 6 in of blade at time on each grit. Might take a while but it will get there.
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That makes perfect sense. Thanks. All I need is the model, and I'll be set
 
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