Which sharpening system for INFI blades?

TheirProtector618 said:
Thanks for the response Hyde. Do you know which one comes with the 3/8 off the bat? I'm actually shopping around as we speak for a WE. I'm just trying to get a good one from the beginning. These things are pricey. Thanks for your help.
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No problem sir! What I did when researching was go to the WE website and look at their sharpeners page. Looks like they have 11 current models, the max clamping width for each model is listed under the features tab for that model. Looks like its closer to half the models that still only take 3/16 blade. :thumbsdown: I would not get one of those. Looks like WE100 & WE120 both take 3/8. WE 130 only 3/16. Field and sport does 3/8 but field and sports pro for more money only 3/16 go figure lol. :rolleyes: Propacks 1 and 2 both take 3/8 but pro pack 3 for the most money only 1/4 and idk why. That is for current new model specs only so if you find a good deal online or even in brick and mortar stores somewhere be very observant as to which model year and generation is in the box! Looks like the price is going up pretty consistently on these as well. When I was first looking at them the Propack1 could be found online for $425. I bought one on amazon awhile back for $450 and that was one of the last ones available on amazon and the cheapest one I could find at the time. Now the WE website says they are $475 and backordered! Good ol supply and demand I guess ha. Ultimately take your time bro, do the research and get what is right for you because, as you mentioned, they aren't any of them cheep, so for the money I believe it is important to be satisfied with your purchase decision. ;):)
 
I have no experience on which to validate this; but I've been warned against the Worksharp for nice knives, due to the risk of altering the temper.

I have and love the Spyderco, and have been told to get the Edge Pro.
 
hydeinmind said:
No problem sir! What I did when researching was go to the WE website and look at their sharpeners page. Looks like they have 11 current models, the max clamping width for each model is listed under the features tab for that model. Looks like its closer to half the models that still only take 3/16 blade. :thumbsdown: I would not get one of those. Looks like WE100 & WE120 both take 3/8. WE 130 only 3/16. Field and sport does 3/8 but field and sports pro for more money only 3/16 go figure lol. :rolleyes: Propacks 1 and 2 both take 3/8 but pro pack 3 for the most money only 1/4 and idk why. That is for current new model specs only so if you find a good deal online or even in brick and mortar stores somewhere be very observant as to which model year and generation is in the box! Looks like the price is going up pretty consistently on these as well. When I was first looking at them the Propack1 could be found online for $425. I bought one on amazon awhile back for $450 and that was one of the last ones available on amazon and the cheapest one I could find at the time. Now the WE website says they are $475 and backordered! Good ol supply and demand I guess ha. Ultimately take your time bro, do the research and get what is right for you because, as you mentioned, they aren't any of them cheep, so for the money I believe it is important to be satisfied with your purchase decision. ;):)
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Thanks for the detailed response Hyde. I'm definitely looking at a 3/8 clamp for sure. I was also somewhat intrigued by the New Wicked Edge GO. The specs say it has a 3/8 clamp, and the pricing is sweet. I can put the rest of the funds into some more stones and such.
 
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TheirProtector618 said:
Thanks for the detailed response Hyde. I'm definitely looking at a 3/8 clamp for sure. I was also somewhat intrigued by the New Wicked Edge GO. The specs say it has a 3/8 clamp, and the pricing is sweet. I can put the rest of the funds into some more stones and such.
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Anytime my man! Yes sir that one looks pretty slick! I was wondering how it would work on the bumper of a vehicle or on a board or something like that. Looks pretty compact and at only 4.2lbs! I hope it works out great for you! :):thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
While you are figuring out feel free to send a blade or two to me to bring back to life!

I can recommend the Edge Pro Professional, but I do a lot of work by hand on waterstones for convexing.

dnCA44t.jpg


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bOk6eDG.jpg


pmkwLc0.jpg
 
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BlackKnight86 said:
I have no experience on which to validate this; but I've been warned against the Worksharp for nice knives, due to the risk of altering the temper.
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You would have to run the Worksharp at max speed and attempt to grind the knife for a long period of time. Neither of which should be possible if you're just sharpening a knife.
 
showing the 8x3 extra coarse dmt dia sharp with the dmt aligner clamp on the sykco 1311

Im using the clamp since i'm not yet comfortable with free hand sharpening yet, i got these last weekend


not INFI but i'm going to get there soon enough
 
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tokerblue said:
You would have to run the Worksharp at max speed and attempt to grind the knife for a long period of time. Neither of which should be possible if you're just sharpening a knife.
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[Shrug].......that is reasonable. However, I've heard the exact same set of opposing viewpoints about other motorized knife sharpeners.

My tendency is to err on the side of caution. If one is "just sharpening" a knife, one shouldn't "need" a motor.

I toss it out there as another piece of data to consider.
 
It's not so much the heat as the rate of removal. You are going to get good quick or have some wicked recurves and wonky lines along the blade length from heel to tip.
 
BlackKnight86 said:
[Shrug].......that is reasonable. However, I've heard the exact same set of opposing viewpoints about other motorized knife sharpeners.

My tendency is to err on the side of caution. If one is "just sharpening" a knife, one shouldn't "need" a motor.
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The main benefit of the Worksharp is speed. I can sharpen dozens of knives in the time it takes to do one knife on the Wicked Sharp. That's the reason I use it for all of my kitchen knives. I can spend minutes instead of hours. I also saw initial comments about ruining the temper with high speeds, but I've never felt any heat on the blades during sharpening.

Panthera tigris said:
It's not so much the heat as the rate of removal. You are going to get good quick or have some wicked recurves and wonky lines along the blade length from heel to tip.
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That's one of the reasons I don't use the Worksharp on my nicer knives. I prefer the much more deliberate and accurate method of the Wicked Edge. I'd also advise practicing on multiple beater knives to learn the actual process. The Worksharp has a larger learning curve.
 
I use a Real Sharp Sharp Machine(if you ever want to buy one, don't use the website, that is a distributor gone bad. The machine maker is an awesome guy though!). With that I can get a perfect V edge on any knife in less than 10 minutes. Great System!!!

Since I do not like V edges very much, especially for fixed blades, I only use that once a year, to every few years. The rest of the time I freehand with a mix of stones and a strop. My favorite combination right now is using the spyderco triangle stones from the sharp maker freehand, followed by a strop. Usually just go from the medium tri-stone to the strop works perfect. I also have the CBN tri-stones, which work great freehand when I want my blades to cut aggressively. Have a cheap 8 dollar two sided diamond stone that I use, mostly on folders, if I want an aggressive cutting edge. It has smoothed out just right so it sharpens like a high grit stone, yet still makes a great aggressive/toothy edge!
I also really like Arkansas stones, especially the black surgical. Have a Shapton stone I use on occasion, but prefer the tri-stones much more.
The strop is a VERY important step. IMO I have a paddle strop which I LOVE!
 
Watched a couple YT vids on that Real Sharp Machine - wow! that's sweet! Seems it could sharpen anything quite well.
 
Panthera tigris said:
While you are figuring out feel free to send a blade or two to me to bring back to life!

I can recommend the Edge Pro Professional, but I do a lot of work by hand on waterstones for convexing.

dnCA44t.jpg


x77Fy2i.jpg


bOk6eDG.jpg


pmkwLc0.jpg
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Nice work you do there. I'll be sure to keep you in mind. You can pm me any info in regards to sharpening services. Thanks
 
tokerblue said:
The main benefit of the Worksharp is speed. I can sharpen dozens of knives in the time it takes to do one knife on the Wicked Sharp. That's the reason I use it for all of my kitchen knives. I can spend minutes instead of hours. I also saw initial comments about ruining the temper with high speeds, but I've never felt any heat on the blades during sharpening.


That's one of the reasons I don't use the Worksharp on my nicer knives. I prefer the much more deliberate and accurate method of the Wicked Edge. I'd also advise practicing on multiple beater knives to learn the actual process. The Worksharp has a larger learning curve.
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I use mine on convex edges only freehand sense getting the WE. On convex edges that just need a normal sharpening I use a worn 1200 grit belt. Does great. I have polished the edge with the back of a worn out belt loaded with compound. Mostly use it now for final sanding of kydex sheaths. I think it is a very worn 1500 grit belt I use for that. BTW check ebay for belts,I bought a no name large assortment of different grits a couple years ago cheap and they work great.
 
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