Who else uses a scythe?

The following is from Peter Vido:




Are you, Benjamin, aware that the American style of blades and snaths have also been imported (by Mibro Group) into Canada from Slovenia for a long time? Secondly, do you believe that something actually made in USA -- like for instance a true Seymour-made product (though most of the stuff they sell under that pretence has instead been commissioned by them to be made by someone else 'to their specifications') -- would not advertise that fact and, especially nowadays, possibly prefixing it with that patriotic "Proudly Made in USA"?

The Mibro Group seems more active in the Western Canada's market, while Garant's (the other major, and older tool importer) dominant territory is the East (with Ontario as the transition zone). Garant, I think, obtains all their scythe blades from Austria, and Mibro from Slovenia. The latter also sells some European style blades. (I had corresponded with Mibro Group about 15 years ago, and also visited the factory in Slovenia numerous times).

Given the above, my guess is that Skiv's "American" snath was made in Slovenia, (and my opinion stands that -- if ergonomy really mattered -- it still is a 'piece of shit') . In time the ever-knowledge-seeking Skiv will likely conclude the same, and consequently hang his "American" scythe upon a wall as a testimony to the "bad old times of snath design".

How much do you want to bet? (However, on the continuation of your own passion in favour of the USA-made blades and snaths, I'm NOT making any bets...:)

-Peter

Hahaha--I'm a bit more open-minded about it all than I think Peter envisions. I'd be genuinely interested in seeing one of the Slovenian-produced American patterned snaths, as I've never seen them here in the 'states. If you ever find vintage Canadian-made ones I'd be interested in seeing those too.

I'm well aware that most of Seymour's tools are outsourced. Some are decent, others are crap. The HANDLES are all USA-made, however, and they can't legally call it a USA-made product unless it's really made here. Most of their tools are marked "Assembled in USA of US and Foreign Components". Their forks are absolute crap but I've been quite pleased with the Chinese-made eye hoe I have from them. Surprisingly it's a nice forging in good steel.

I'm not a betting man simply because I recognize that there are usually too many variables for a neat call to be made. The American pattern is not the ideal choice for all circumstances, nor is any other regionally dominant type. They are all different ways of answering different shades of the same question, but in this case it's like trying to color-match old paint with new, with your mowing conditions being the old paint and the new paint being your scythe choice. Your overall task, mowing, is "Blue"--that's as specific as it gets. It's not hammering something (let's call that "Red") or digging something (let's call that "Yellow") but if you just go to the store and grab the first blue paint you find, how likely is it to match? It'll still be blue, so it'll match the job a lot better than yellow or red paint, but the closer you get to matching the blue you have, the better and more pleasing the end result. If your blue is a particular tint and shade of "Copenhagen Blue" then you'd be ill-matched with "Azure" paint.

For all I know, Skiv's mowing conditions may be best suited to a particular setup of continental European scythe, in which case that would be the solution I would endorse. I've asked for input on what an appropriate model of scythe, in your judgment, would be for my mix of conditions but haven't yet received input for one reason or another (I know you're very busy and don't have much time for correspondence, so that's understandable) but would fully like to try making a more equitable comparison between what you, as a recognized expert, consider a good match for my available mowing conditions vs. the conclusion that I've come to with regards of a quality American pattern example to use for them.

With regards to the assessment of the ergonomics of the American type being "crap" I would argue that if you're experiencing discomfort you either have a bad quality unit, or you're doing something wrong with your tuning or are using improper technique for the conditions at hand. If you simply find the unit less enjoyable to use but it's a good unit, properly tuned, and used with good technique, it's perhaps more likely that the "voice" of the tool is incongruent with your own preferred rhythms, motions, or internal dialogue. The American type is very "aggressive" in its voice under most circumstances (in my own experience) than those of European pattern, which may be more pleasing to some (myself) or displeasing to others.

As I've mentioned before, patriotism plays ZERO role in esteem for the American pattern. It simply works well for me both from a personality standpoint and from the standpoint of my mowing conditions. Many of the Banko/Craftsman Swedish-made American pattern blades, for instance, are very nicely executed in my opinion and experience. And I have nothing against other snath patterns whatsoever but forward vs. rearward facing grips require different style of movement and may be better- or less-suited to different techniques and blade shapes. It's sort of like the debate of push vs. pull saws as far as I can tell.
 
A big question for Peter--Why do you think that the European scythe never gained traction historically in the USA, in spite of having been available in countless large hardware catalogs? European scythes were certainly not unknown in North America, nor even particularly uncommon, but 100% of the evidence I've found suggests that they were not the preferred variety here, in spite of their availability.

I'm not trying to be a smart-aleck here--I'm genuinely curious on your thoughts regarding those facts. And I would hasten to add that I doubt it was a lack of ability to use a lighter scythe. Clearly the thinner examples of American blades--cradle blades especially--indicate that American farmers had plenty of finesse with the tools.
 
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In time the ever-knowledge-seeking Skiv will likely conclude the same, and consequently hang his "American" scythe upon a wall as a testimony to the "bad old times of snath design".

I'm actually more likely to hang it on the wall as a testimony to how long it took me to find good wood to make another snath! Using local wood is a good idea -- I have some birch and that's about the best of the local stuff. All else is poplar, pine, spruce, cedar, fir or hemlock. I know I can make a hemlock snath work, but it's not optimal. But it's my favourite mowing snath. The "American" only gets used on the hillside terraces when I'm mowing uphill, and that infrequently as I'm trying to keep the terrace sides stabilized.

In one way I'm lucky. Most of the place is rock. The cultivated areas we pretty much built on top of rock terraces. Grass doesn't grow in a large enough area to be annoying, and even the grain won't take a huge amount of time to harvest this coming summer. What grass there is, in the orchard, requires a very well-peened blade and the ability to mow around obstacles. Consequently my peening and honing abilities have come a lot farther than other aspects of the craft.
 
Never really paid too much attention to the scythe until I read parts of this thread. Looks like a great tool. I remember when I was a kid in the 80s my dad never mowed the lawn he would always cut it down once a month or so with a scythe. As he got older he started using a weed whacker but he still has 4 scythes hanging on the wall of his shop. One Is huge I remember. Next time I visit I'm going to take a closer look at them...
 
Got this scythe for $32. My first $15 scythe was a Seymour from the 50s.
This one is a Derby and Ball. There is quite a difference in quality. The first
thing I noticed is that the nut holding the blade was bigger. When I got it off,
instead of a washer, it had spring disk. You can see other details in the picture.

derbyball.jpg

madeus.jpg

Unfortunately, the wood has started to come apart around the collar. There was
a bit of play when I bought it. Would wood glue be sufficient for a repair?
end.JPG


The blade is a heavy Rixford blade that the seller called a thistle blade.
I tried to restore the original bevel, which seemed to be beveled on both
sides. An old scythe I inspected in a display from Sheridan's Valley campaign in the Civil
War clearly had a very shallow bevel on both sides. However, I am finding that
the blade is pretty irregular. I started with a stone which revealed what looked
like the plane of the bevels and continued with a file. I am tired and I think there
is still a secondary bevel. My other blade does not hold an edge so I was reluctant
to chance putting a bevel only on one side in case the blade is laminated.
rixford.JPG
 
Very nice! Looks like the snath, unfortunately, makes use of the horrid pressed sheet metal nib blocks that D&B used on some of their later cheaper models, but they're functional even if they crush the wood badly when tightened. I have some left over modern rough-cast aluminum ones from the replacement nibs I've used for restorations should they be of interest to you. They aren't the best quality but are a leg up from the press-formed ones.

The blade is very likely laminated--I haven't run across a monosteel Rixford blade yet. Rather than concerning yourself with the visual bevel width be sure to, instead, check to make sure that the position of the edge runs true to center with the opposing faces of the web.

If there isn't a solid washer between the wood and the spring washer you may want to install one to prevent wear on the wood.

The split end grain and loose fit will both need attention. I suggest using a combination of wood glue and corrugated fasteners driven into the end grain to fasten the boundaries. Snip or break the fasteners to the length you need and thin the edge on them so they drive easier. When you can't readily drive it in any deeper, just grind/file off the excess instead of trying to drive it flush. The collar will need to be shimmed in one manner or another. I doubt that the method I use would be convenient for you (carefully sanding down a strip of vinyl to fit), so I would perhaps make use of some thin wooden wedges driven deep into the gap.

The split probably started in the first place because that mechanism is best suited for grass snaths (which that one is) but a bush blade was being used on it. The cracks are characteristic of the kind of strain that would be put on the tool if used in such an overly rough manner. High-strength wood glue and corrugated fasteners go a very long way in my experience.
 
I'm not a betting man simply because I recognize that there are usually too many variables for a neat call to be made. The American pattern is not the ideal choice for all circumstances, nor is any other regionally dominant type.

Funnily enough, I'm not even nearly as enthusiastic about the American scythes as you, but I would still say that there are snath-blade combinations that would cut comparatively well with a good Euro even in widely perceived "Euro conditions". On the flip side, I think there are Euro's that would handle more "ideal" for American scythes pretty well.You can still say that neither is ideal for something else, but the lines get blurred as more perceptive ability is gained and as well as skill with the tools.

Peter has certainly never used an ideal example of really any "good" American scythe to date, as far as I know. And I think you are still assembling your case to be made, with some important "discoveries" yet to be made in that respect. And I also would venture to say that you've never used a really good Euro either. Which is why I find the polemical dynamics sort of disenchanting (Not that it's primarily stemming from you, Benjamin. ;) )

For all I know, Skiv's mowing conditions may be best suited to a particular setup of continental European scythe, in which case that would be the solution I would endorse. I've asked for input on what an appropriate model of scythe, in your judgment, would be for my mix of conditions but haven't yet received input for one reason or another (I know you're very busy and don't have much time for correspondence, so that's understandable) but would fully like to try making a more equitable comparison between what you, as a recognized expert, consider a good match for my available mowing conditions vs. the conclusion that I've come to with regards of a quality American pattern example to use for them.

I don't know (or perhaps remember) exactly what your "unchanging" mowing conditions are like, in regards to terrain and whatnot. Mowing conditions change throughout the season though, of course. I don't see why with some assessment and perception of that you couldn't do all the mowing I've seen you do with American scythes with the right Euro. I'd be curious to talk about that more sometime. (Not that I'm tyrannically advancing some kind of "pro Euro" agenda, just trying to muddy the water here some more-- this on going debate has become too neat and defined for my liking)
 
Total agreement. I think that, with the right blade and snath, that any regional style could be adapted to nearly any mowing conditions. The commonly predominant styles of both simply give you a clue as to what the majority of users in a given region preferred to use over others that were either possible for them to manufacture or already available to them. Even when a given scythe is not a GOOD match to given conditions, the work may most often still be accomplished. A better unit would simply make that work easier.

I fully concede that I have yet to get my hands on a truly top-class Euro unit, and very much want to remedy that. I just need to make sure it's a unit that I could compare with some degree of equity against an American for my conditions.

I think far too often a "pro-x" argument gets confused with an "anti-y" one. It is very possible to have multiple excellent ways to tackle a problem! :):thumbup:
 
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The following is from Peter Vido:

Are you, Benjamin, aware that the American style of blades and snaths have also been imported (by Mibro Group) into Canada from Slovenia for a long time... The Mibro Group seems more active in the Western Canada's market, while Garant's (the other major, and older tool importer) dominant territory is the East (with Ontario as the transition zone). Garant, I think, obtains all their scythe blades from Austria, and Mibro from Slovenia. The latter also sells some European style blades. (I had corresponded with Mibro Group about 15 years ago, and also visited the factory in Slovenia numerous times)...

-Peter

Here are a couple "American" scythe blades currently imported by Mibro (produced in Slovenia) and sold in Canada by the Home Hardware chain of hardware stores:

50796841.jpg


50796571.jpg


[These blades are also pictured on Mibro's website.]

This confirms that "American-style" scythe blades are currently being manufactured in more than one country (not just Austria), and that in North America one can buy new "American-style" scythe blades that aren't sourced by Seymour.
 
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Very cool to see. The blade itself still looks pretty atrocious compared to vintage American or Swedish produced blades but the tang form is much closer in form to what's proper for such. Still interested to see what the imported snaths look like compared to Seymour models.
 
What is the purpose of the V-shaped grip? Or is it just an assembly method?

HERE is an interesting transcriptions of an 1836 article discussing improvements in agricultural tools. The development of manufactured curved snaths is discussed, along with their prior existence in the form of carefully selected curved tree branches.
 
What is the purpose of the V-shaped grip? Or is it just an assembly method?
...

"A simple type of middle grip used with the straight snaths consists of a U-shaped withy holding the snath in the U-bow; the free ends pointing to the left are tied with a string. It has the advantage of being adjustable to the best position for the operator's hand."
--quoted from Farm Implements for Arid and Tropical Regions by H. J. Hopfen, 1981, page 108
http://books.google.com/books?id=uQgTSE3gKksC&lpg=PA108&ots=2pEqnfxx-T&dq=%22U-shaped%20withy%22&pg=PA108#v=onepage&q=%22U-shaped%20withy%22&f=false

Instructions (translated from Russian) appear here:
http://scytheconnected.blogspot.com/2013/12/russian-variations.html
 
As I suspected--thanks, as usual, Steve! :) In addition to being adjustable I see it as an advantageous method in that it doesn't require boring out a hole of any kind in the snath.
 
'Lo, gentlemen, good evening and a Happy New year to all of you!

Just wanted to say thanks for this thread and the wealth of info contained within. I'm still working my way through it, trying to soak everything up.

Yesterday I took my grandfather's scythe down from the rafter it's hung on for over fifty years. He passed in '67, and I know my father never used it. It's a brush blade, and I'm interested to see if it has use left in it. I'll post up pics as I get a chance.

Regards
 
Very nice! Looks like the snath, unfortunately, makes use of the horrid pressed sheet metal nib blocks that D&B used on some of their later cheaper models, but they're functional even if they crush the wood badly when tightened. I have some left over modern rough-cast aluminum ones from the replacement nibs I've used for restorations should they be of interest to you. They aren't the best quality but are a leg up from the press-formed ones.

The blade is very likely laminated--I haven't run across a monosteel Rixford blade yet. Rather than concerning yourself with the visual bevel width be sure to, instead, check to make sure that the position of the edge runs true to center with the opposing faces of the web.
Thank you for your great response, and sorry for the delay but here is a little more I accumulated.
In the following picture you can see the nib block. It looks like cast iron. Regarding the blade, is it possible that I am seeing the hard steel sandwiched between the soft? Past the right edge of the nib block, you see a section of mirror surface instead of the file scratched white metal. You can see a band of it along the edge on the other side in my earlier picture. Could this be the hard steel? I thought it was just a bevel angel different from my sharpening plane, but now I wonder.
DSCN2871.JPG


Regarding the split grain, I could not resist taking it out for a spin. It was wonderful! It actually slices blades of grass instead of tearing out
clumps like my other blade. BUT…. I lost the little plug of wood that had worked loose. I searched for it in the grass, but gave up before
we had our once a year machine mowing to mulch the tree leaves into the grass (can't do the by hand can I?).

Then, a few days ago, I went on a blade shopping tour in northwestern Virginia. I found: 2 grain cradles, 8 scythes with grass blades, 4 with brush blades, 4 grinding wheels, 1 brazed/broken brush blade, 1 brazed/broken European pattern blade, apparently very old with stamped writing I could not read on the tang.

One grass blade was a Seymore, is in great shape, with what looks like the original edge? at an angel like that in your guide. I now own it. The others were in various stages of heavy red rust, some stored out in the rain. Most had disintegrating white swaths as well. One brush blade was a Little Giant, complete with sticker, NOS, on a similarly pristine Seymour No 5 brush snath with blue lettering. I bought the grass blade and a beat up brush snath from the same guy on the trip out. Wish I had waited for the return trip so I could have bargained for the better snath and the extra blade.

Two snaths had the back saver hardware. Is that always riveted? They were shot, but I would have bought them for that if I could salvage that part.

Finally, on that note, I have not seen one blade in the wild with a bent tang. But here is something. On this Seymour brush snath, the web has 4 holes.
If I use the bottom hole, by brush blade sits at an angel that is almost parallel to the ground! It also seems like the blade angel can be adjusted from
there, or should it sit all the way back against the ring?

The brush snaths are heavy, and my lighter grass snath has a web with only 3 holes.
DSCN2873.JPG
 
The nib block is, indeed, cast malleable iron. The line you see could be a lamination line, as you can sometimes see them, but it also could be a change in the angle. You can only sometimes see lamination lines and it's more common to simply be able to see them, or to see the spark pattern change dramatically when using a belt sander.

For the wooden plug that you lost you can fashion a new one to carefully fit the space. If you can match the grooves of the surviving wood along the break surface that's preferred since it provides a certain degree of mechanical bond that way, but if not then remove the collar and carefully carve the surface flat so that you can get the surface mated nice and tight with some wood glue. Trim away excess wood on the exterior after the glue has fully dried and this will blend it in nicely. Then mount the collar on it again before tapping in a section of a corrugated fastener. If the fastener reaches a point where it doesn't want to keep going and begins to buckle, stop there and then file it down flush to the wood.

Chances are strong that the Euro blade that you saw was a Redtenbacher, as they're the most commonly seen Euro blades here. The tang usually has a couple of swans and reads "Acier Fondu". Other makers did export here, though.

Backsaver snaths are always riveted, at least every example I've seen (including one with Seymour markings, which I presume means that Seymour bought the rights to the hardware at some point since it's identical in build to a Sta-Tite.) You can drill out the rivet by marking the center of it with a center punch then using a drill of equal to or greater than the size of the rivet shaft. I've purchased a bunch of rivets of the right size and style to replace the rivet with--the work isn't too bad if you just take your time forming the head. :)

Indeed, it's uncommon to see blades with the tang angle properly set. They came flat with the intention of the tang being heated and bent by either the end user or a local metalworker. You'll sometimes see them with the tang properly set and it's usually a nice blade on a nice snath--the original owner actually cared about doing the tool justice! More commonly you'll see blades where the blade was locked in a vise at its midpoint and the tang cranked so that the blade itself torques. This aligns the tang properly relative to the region of the blade that was clamped...but the region that was twisted will be out of alignment! The reason why your blade lays more parallel when using the most distal hole in that bush snath is because doing so adds length, which makes the blade ride a little farther away from you and lower, but with less support since the tang is hanging out further.

For an easy way to bend the tang, stick a raw potato on the heel of the blade (to soak up the heat and prevent damaging the heat treatment) and take a MAP gas torch to the tang, then bend with either a pipe slipped over the tang or with a monkey wrench (not a pipe wrench--I mean the combo hammer/wrench tool with a stationary top jaw) if you don't have a dedicated bending wrench. Bending wrenches aren't commonly found these days, and when you do find them (new) they tend to cost an arm and a leg. I have a source for some inexpensive ones that I'll be ordering in in the future but it'll be a little while yet.

:)
 
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