Who Would Be Interested In Doing A Collaboration Classic Hunter With Me??

Dan,you folks have safe trip, and Roger, no phone or pc? You enloping? Need ladder? We are sure gonna miss you folks when you take off!
 
you guys have a good one.

The Ivory is posted on the site and here
take a look I'm going
to have a hard time picking.:(

http://www.knivesby.com/collaboration.html
collaboration-ivory.jpg
 
That's real good Dan. Thanks for going to the trouble of posting those. I am so tied up lately and am trying to keep up with all these different threads I am now part of and doing the regular stuff that keeps the lights on and make a knife that has to be ready for Wyoming Elk season.

GUYS: Bruce asked me a few days back to verify and send him all the correct spellings so he can plan the maker's etch. Please visit Dan's site again and email me that your name is correctly spelled. We will use Dan's reference site as the master source for these type things. When I hear back that all is okay I will pass it along to Bruce.

JOHN, Hell NO!! Bow season starts around the middle part of October. I could easily postpone an elopment. Bow season is important stuff.

DAN, I understand now for sure that the scales and bolsters are to be relieved. With that I agree a steel template made by Michael and Dave is a good idea. I suppose you would grind the tang profile down to the width you feel best. Very good.

All is well. RL
 
Geez You guys I didnt know I was working with a bunch of perfectionists. This must be the most "thought out" Drop point ever made! Now if you all can execute all these plans into a reality this will be a very special knife indeed!

Nick it really is good to hear from you. I couldnt reach you by email, did you change your addy? Any steel you are happy with We are happier with. Just hurry. You really know how to keep us in suspence.
 
Dan, and all, in view of the fact the scales and bolsters are to be relieved I am now giving consideration toward the thong liner. I really wonder if it not be best we forego it. I just don't see it balancing well in appearance. Is it too valuable to functionality for this knife??

What say all about having a thong liner??

RL
 
Roger,Gotcha! Thong hole and thong? My nickle's worth, nope on the thong/hole. Dan, hard choice on the ivory. I like the pieces on the left and right, but you guys know more about ivory than I do, by far! Your call, I have faith in your decision, Dan. Great ivory, by the way.
 
Thong Hole? Hmmmmm, I would have to go with John on this one and say to leave it out, but that is me. I am sure the knife will look great with or without it, but I think it will have a cleaner look with out it.

However, if it does get put in, i would leave it without a liner just because the thong hole will reveal more layers in the mokume which might look pretty neat when you look into the hole.
 
Hey Nick, send that eight bar over to me if you would. ;)

I did a six bar for a dagger and I used 34 layers in each bar. But I know what you mean about material loss. I think I lost about 75% when I did that 6 bar. I started with a 1 x 1 x 12 and ended up with enough to do a 1.125 x 3/16 x 10 blade.

I don't know if it all went to scale from forging the billets down or in grinding dust to clean up all the twisting. Either way it was alot of work. If I remember it took me about 14 hours to make the billet. So I feel your pain!

Damn, I can't wait to see what this blade is going to look like!
 
being a take apart A liner would have to be removable
creating one more thing to do. like said I think more mokume
to see the better with or with out the hole.
again the Mokume looks nice.
I can't take any credit for the Ivory just the posting it:)
Roger
is Chucks Ivory big enough? it looks like
it could be a match book piece to me
looking it over

yeahup we need Steel:) I'm sure it will be fine nick...

a template to take the Handle down to it, with everything together
would make it nice to work then just put the finished
parts on the finished blade. if any questions I can explain
better I hope, about the template.
:( :)
 
Dan,

Sorry, I've been off the air for a couple days.

The two scales you see in the picture measure about 5 inches long by almost 1 3/8 inches wide, each. As you can see, the middle-top piece is a little tight in width for both scales but I think I can get them if that's the one you guys want.

RL
 
Greetings gents. I don't get by here often enough, obviously! :D I'll try to do better.

Just wanted to say I'll be happy to make a second blank for this. What do you want it made from? Should it be ground and taperd also? (If so I'm going to have the devil's own time making it perfectly match the original...) I was thinking about making one for myself anyway, just to make the knife again in the likely event I can't bid to win it later. ;)

This sure sounds like a cool knife. I think we should try to extract this thread and print and bind it somehow to go with the knife; what documentation! Like Bruce said, this must be the most "thought-out" hunter ever made! Excellent.

Dave
 
Dave the Blank should be steel, O1 would be fine.
the taper, thickness and handle part should as
close as possible a match as the original
it will be a template and used for the handle making for
the profile of the main handle for the relief
of the handle holding all the handle parts to finish
I'll relieve it but the Taper has to be the same as the taper
of the knife handle, thickness as close as possible too

soooo
I'll need the both first, profiled without the taper
I'll place the holes ( in both ),
document them and relieve the template profile
then send the two to be Tapered.

then the blade can be ground
then the Blade and template sent to Roger for Heat treat
and Jade profiling to the Template.( the relief )
the blade at this point can be sent off to be finished,
the tapered template and fitted jade
(with Ivory) sent
to me for handle material fitting
Roger and I have to get together on the phone for this part.
this all centers around that Jade.

the handle would be finished on the template
this will size it for the relief
the blade can be finished up and the handle
transferred to the blade once both are done. ahhhh
I feel like I'm taking over here :barf:

if you guys want this done differently or see it a better way
by all means say so please. I'm just trying to pull it together:)
 
I bought some mild steel awhile back to make some blanks -- if you guys still want some, I can profile some out.
 
Actually I wonder if Michael wouldn't be the best one to start the blank? If not no problem I'll knock it out. One thing that occurs to me is the thickness of the stock. I don't hve a surface grinder to take the O1 to the thickness of Nick's damascus. That means the tapered tang won't have the same angle to the bolsters, which means the angle where the scales and jade meet the bolsters would not match...

So does anyone in our circle here have a surface grinder?

I can make the O1 blank from the damascus one Michael sends me, then forward both to the surface grinder, who would send them to Dan for drilling. Then both back to me for grinding. Does this make sense?

Dave
 
Originally posted by ddavelarsen
I think we should try to extract this thread and print and bind it somehow to go with the knife; what documentation! Like Bruce said, this must be the most "thought-out" hunter ever made! Excellent.

Dave
Click to expand...

yes I think so too:)
I added a page to add this stuff if some one could compile the
jest of the whole thing I'd be glade to post it.
http://www.knivesby.com/collaboration-sequence.html


Dave I have a Surface grinder I'd be glad to size it. and you're right they have to be the same.

that would be great Michael Thanks..what do you guys Think?
 
Dan I think that's fine. Do you think the template blank needs to be hardened? If not we could use one that Michael is making. Otherwise I can make one out of the O1 or send a piece of O1 to Michael to use. Personally I think it would make the most sense if Michael makes it, regardless what you want it made from. I'll ask Nick how think the billet is or how thick he expects it to be. I have to order some steel soon so may as well order it as close to the dimension we need as possible.

Roger, I think you're right!!! :eek: Which is why I qualified my statement - "ain't got no" big bucks... :D
 
no I don't think it has to be Hardened unless the holes change size in the heat treat,,
I do think it should be of something that won't wear much
through the working of the handle and that would be the holes in it.
as said I have a surface grinder if we need it..
 
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