Who Would Be Interested In Doing A Collaboration Classic Hunter With Me??

Well I'm still in! Nick you are the man - that description sinks in...makes me start thinking about damascus. You don't want to do that to me do you? Make me take up yet another addiction? One thing I do not need is a prediliction for having to make damascus for all my knives... So please Nick, no more cool descriptions of how you're making the pattern. It'll keep me up nights.

Ask John about me & sleep; keeping me up nights is not a good addendum to my life... :eek:

However, since my wife is about ready to pitch me out the door, maybe you need a roommate? Then we could make damascus together all night long! And you could teach me to make those incredible long dangerous knives!

...

Okay, just kidding.

I'm in though, ready to grind!!!

Dave
 
I think the twist would be worth more at sale..:(
nick?? I know you'er looking ... any progress??
I'm not knocking Bruce's steel mind you

just the twist will sell better I think
any other comments Plez..but It's only my two cents..:footinmou
 
This knife has been on hold long enough. We need steel to get started. Bruce is busted up and Michael is going to provide some pics. We can stick with a nice twist and get it from someone here. We'll get it. I might even twist some coat-hangers together and hammer on them if that's what it takes. It's time to get Michael profiling. Maybe Laredo can knock a piece out for us. He does good work. It's past time.

RL
 
For some personal reasons my shop time has been limited the last two weeks, but I'm not going to air them here.

I am off to a hammer-in tomorrow that will have some of the best steel makers in the WORLD attending. I am taking the billet to get advice on getting the maximum out of it as far as pattern development and yield.

If you guys have another source for steel and want to go with it, by all means go ahead. I apologize for holding things up.

On the other hand, if you can wait till after the hammer-in it will be done.

***Oops, I missed Roger's post...nevermind, he's made his decision.***

Nick
 
Just get some steel to Michael Nick as soon as you can. You are too good at this to try to out do the rest of our abilities. Heck-fire I'm very liable to screw up the jade but I ain't going to take months to tell the rest of you I did. No one here wants you replaced but face it we seldom here from you and when we do its because we beg to. If you want out say so. If you want in talk to us every couple weeks.

RL
 
Originally posted by NickWheeler
I am off to a hammer-in tomorrow that will have
some of the best steel makers in the WORLD attending.
I am taking the billet to get advice on getting
the maximum out of it as far as pattern development and yield.

On the other hand, if you can wait till after the
hammer-in it will be done.
Nick
Click to expand...

(((Nick I'll hold you to your word on that one OK.
the steel will be done after the hammer-in.:) right/)))

I'm going to be point blank and not pussie foot
around this..you jumped on Rogers post real fast??

I've been in business a lot of year so I know some things that work
and some that don't,,
so we can take this at face valve or not...

you said
***Oops, I missed Roger's post...nevermind, he's made his decision.***
Nick what do you expect? as said you jumped on it real fast..

If you have personal problems, no body blames you for
a hold up on the steel, or if you don't have time,,
but just bow out for those reasons if you're going to,

not because of decisions having to be made because of
lack of communications by you, and for the team.

The steels been a long time coming now ,,,,
it has been 3 months ,
you wanted in so YOU made it your responsibility
to come though for the team,,
One problem is we should have set a dead-line for
things to be done,
but I'm sure nobody thought it necessary.

either you want to do this or you don't ,, ,, personally,
( and that may not mean zip to you )
I think you should, and have done it in a timely manner
as part of a team depending on you,,,

I don't have to do this either
but I said I would and that's the way it will be,
barring my own death or I can't move to do it
anymore..but I will say so if I can't do it.....

Nick,, are you in or out :confused:

I want to see just how good you are.
not to put any pressure on you..;)
I reserve the right to edit this post because I tend to put my foot in my mouth:footinmou

edited to add,
anyone know when this hammer-in is over with
so we know when we'll get the Damascus ;)
 
Well, the guys I showed the billet to said that for a full-tang knife it was too complex....too much pattern to cover it up under scales. Also, I don't want anyone to think I was trying to "out-do" the other participants skills.

So since I got back to the shop today, I forged out a 155 layer twist billet. I surface ground it down, but left it a little thick to account for wiggle-room. It's almost 12"X 1-5/8"

There are a couple spots where the flutes created when twisting got forged down and look like an inclusion...but they should be totally ground off when profiling.

I'll do my best to get it off to Michael tomorrow.
Nick
 
NICK,

We are not going to completely cover the tang. Dan Gray has suggested we leave the scales relieved around the tang so that the etched damascus will show. Does this make the original billet better or do you think what you suggested is better. I don't know, of course, but you will.

Thanks and please advise here.

The comment about out-doing was mine. Hell, I know for a fact all you gotta do is drop a hammer on the ground to out do me. That was me. You get some steel to Michael and all will be well, indeed.

RL
 
OKAY guys, Nick is trying to get steel out to MIchael tomorrow. I need all of you to do me a favor, that includes all of us Nick, and look again at the picture of the blue ivory I have that is posted on Dan's site to decide which we wish to use. Just go up to Dan's last post to get the link (the collab. knife link). I need to know so I can be released from holding all three pieces back. Email Dan with your vote. Dan can email me with the majority decision. I have my favorite and will email Dan with it. It's up to all us. They are all good. The roughest looking one is tight on size but with back bolsters I think I can squeese two scales out of it. So, just figure any of the three choices will work.

Regardless of choice Chuck Leake gets credit for donating the scales. All three choices came from him, two on a knife deal and one specifically for this project - and no, I am not going to say which one because I am not convinced it is the best of the three choices, but just like the rest it could be.

Thanks.

RL
 
MICHAEL, it is important that you send me the cut off length. I think Nick said he was sending almost a 12 inch length. I need the cut off. Send it as a whole length so that I might cut it as needed. I need this for preliminary HT testing. When time comes please email me.

NICK, I will be asking your advise again by email concerning your recommendations about HT. I will do research based on what you tell me the composition is but I need your input concerning HT advise.

I'm going way back on memory because I lost our past emails along time ago but IS IT 1084 and 15N20?? I can't really remember to say the truth.

Thanks to both you.

We will be rolling soon I think.

RL
 
Roger-

Actually the single twist will be better if some of the tang is exposed rather than flush with the handle material and polished. The mosaic billet would only show coarse random lines along the tang/spine perimiter, yet the twist will show fine wavy lines and some stars. The mosaic looks really cool on the flats, but just looks like a very coarse random pattern on the sides/ends. I really think the twist will look the best as it has a lot of figure but will not be overpowering to the eye. I wish I had realized that sooner and not held up the project...I AM SORRY about that.

The billet is indeed a 1084/15N20 mix. I feel it should be normalized after grinding 3 times (heat to 1400F and cool to black between heats). Then the blade can be austenitized at 1450-1500F and quenched. The lower the aust. temperature you go with, the longer I'd soak it. If you want to get it fully hard, I recommend soaking at 1450F for 5-10 minutes (after the blade has equalized with the heat source) and then quenching.

Your oil warmed up to the 120-160F range will work nicely. Typically, I temper at 400F, but sometimes go up or down a touch depending on the knife.

As per the ivory, I know it's not a good answer, but I'm easy to please. Ivory is always good....so whichever you all choose is fine with me.

Thanks,
Nick
 
Originally posted by NickWheeler
Well, the guys I showed the billet to said that for a full-tang knife it was too complex....

too much pattern to cover it up under scales. Also, I don't want anyone to think I was trying to "out-do" the other participants skills.

Nick
Click to expand...

Whoooooaaaa Nick your the man of the hour :D
hey you all,, keep in mind that this is a take a-part so the
underside of the tang parts will be seen at times..so I'd be dazzled
if it were purty too :D

Nick go ahead an do your best
and don't worry about "out-doing" the rest of us,
remember the blade will be your advertising for years to come...with your name on it. :)

I'll post the heat treat recommendations on the site if it changes any let me know Roger... Dan
 
Posted here..
http://www.knivesby.com/collaboration-heat-treat.html


members of this project please vote on the ivory
Roger's letting me take the vote :( :)
e-mail me at mail@grayknives.com

collaboration-ivory.jpg
 
Yeehaah!!

Roger -- as soon as I get it, I'll cut off the excess and send it your way.
 
Zow Hot Diggity! I vote for the piece on the left, and the piece on the right, the two pieces that look like they are already cut for handle slabs.
 
Originally posted by rlinger
look again at the picture of the blue ivory I have that is posted on Dan's site to decide which we wish to use. Just go up to Dan's last post to get the link (the collab. knife link). I need to know so I can be released from holding all three pieces back.

Email Dan with your vote. Dan can email me with the majority decision. I have my favorite and will email Dan with it. It's up to all us. They are all good. The roughest looking one is tight on size but with back bolsters I think I can squeese two scales out of it. So, just figure any of the three choices will work.

Thanks.

RL
Click to expand...

John ole buddy
make it official ... I'm collecting e-mails..:)

Roger the left and right one are for one set right? it's been asked.
 
That is correct. They are a set.

For your record, as of now I intend to temper at 400 F. but regardless not below that. Also, I will normalize verbatim as Nick says. Hardening, probably 1450 to 1480 area. Don't know yet. I'll be cutting two or three test pieces for sea trials. I may not be able to Rockwell them because of the nickel.

Nick, I like the twist better too after you explained it to us. We are a bunch of happy campers.

RL
 
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