Who Would Be Interested In Doing A Collaboration Classic Hunter With Me??

Nice pics -- hope you didn't have any problems getting into the package. :)
 
I doubt we can set the ivory pins any further apart because of the jade cut out, which only John has seen so far.

I have a absolute maximum thickness of 0.26 inch scale thickness but then the jade liner is about 1/8th inch (again, only John knows the precise thickness of that).

I can come down to what ever thickness you want but I suggest we let Bruce know the OAL of blank and get his advise on handle thickness, keeping in mind that I believe this bark will look much better without a palm swell. I think grinding this bark will remove too much bark but I'll do what ever the consensus is.

You are going to wait until I have the scales finished before finalizing the back bolsters???

What think??? I expect to be gone for a week beginning tomorrow noon.

BTW, picture of the steel grain is here: http://riflestocks.tripod.com/nick_steel.html

RL
 
Dan, I looked at what I specified to John. I specified the jade cut out be 3 inches long by 1/2 inch wide with a OAL of liner at 3 5/8 inches. John only knows what the actual liner is though.

RL
 
Michael no problem it wasn't going anywhere
with all that tape on it though.. :D

Roger I'll look this over taking in account those spec's
that other will come later anyway..
but I'm going to need the finished length of the Jade

you putting the thong hole in the tang or am I ?
 
Dan, if you decide on a thong tube I suppose it best you do that since its your bolster work. You are drilling all the tang holes anyhow. Is that okay with you??

I guess we'll have to wait on John for some of this and I suppose we will be bouncing this thing back and forth through the mail between you and I a couple times too.

When I get back, I should give you a call on the land line.

Between you, Bruce and John you should be able to map the holes out and determine handle thickness I can work to those specs.. As far as handle thickness, I try to hit it at 0.45 to 0.5 inches if there is no palm swell but my hunters have been shorter than this one. Whatever you and Bruce decide on that. With the 1/8th liners I have plenty of ivory thickness. My absolute maximum scale thickness is 0.26 and the liner is supposed to be around 1/8th thick.

Keep thinking of anything you need from me because I will be without phone or internet for a week beginning tomorrow.

ADDENDUM: I won't really know for sure precisely what the OAL of jade will be until I get the dove tail ground. I think we can know within a few mil though as soon as John can tell you what he has.

RL
 
I'll need the length of the jade to place the holes
in the tang,
the angles would help too..the picture is showing two
different ones.

the thong hole I can do..I'll line it,
using the tube for alignment also.
sound OK?
 
That is one beautiful blade blank! Zowie, can't wait to get my greedy hands on it!

I'm with Nick, "thin is in," I'll bring it down to about .015 or .02 before I send it to Roger and if Steve wants me to I can knock off any scale from HT. I doubt there'll be much, knowing how precise Roger works. ;)

Steve I typically take it to 400 before HT, would you prefer I stop at 220? In which case I'd leave the edge a little thicker.

I haven't read all the preceding, gotta go to bed - been in New Mexico all week, just got home and cleaned up a bit...

Later,
Dave
 
Originally posted by ddavelarsen

I'm with Nick, "thin is in," I'll bring it down to about .015 or .02 before I send it to Roger and if Steve wants me to I can knock off any scale from HT. I doubt there'll be much, knowing how precise Roger works. ;)

Steve I typically take it to 400 before HT, would you prefer I stop at 220? In which case I'd leave the edge a little thicker.


Later,
Dave
Click to expand...

I got a feel for the blade, now that it's in hand
and with that short a taper, it will have to end up thin
or it won't take a lot of sharpening before it will have
to be re-ground,
(if it was to get used(sharpened) a lot at least).
I agree now, thin is in :)

BUT Dave
being carbon steel I'd leave a lot more for the heat treat
or the edge may warp even at .020
then finish grind it.

Nick it's your steel,,what's it act like, heat treating thin?
and how much dead layer will need to be removed?
 
Roger is right on the money for the jade measurements. Dan, you still want the 4 pinholes in each piece for holding? Jade pieces are each 1/8" thick, too.Sorry about the delay in my reply, my dang pc has been dead in the water.
 
Originally posted by ddavelarsen
Hey John, get a Mac! (I miss hearing from you)

:D

Dave
Click to expand...
Dave you mean a
Mac truck with a cell phone ??:confused: :D :D DELL dell dell :D

John, Roger wants the holes for the alignment of the jade
to the Ivory for his work. once I get it, it wont matter.
my pin set up will both align and hold everything down.

I am going to ask everyone where they want the screw holes to be
so I can map them with my dro for later handle work.
I'll post a picture of want I mean. Roger and I will talk.
 
Hey Dave, I'm with Dan on thick before heattreating. How about this:

Grind down to 220 with a .030-.040 edge. Then Roger can treat it and return it to you.

You can take it down to 400grit and a .015 edge. I'll take it from there.

Does that work with everyone?
Steve
 
Originally posted by John Andrews
10/4, Dan. And Dave, to get a new pc, I would have to sell my daughter into slavery.
Click to expand...

John, does she do windows:D the wife doesn't,
soooo maybe we can work something out :D :D :eek: Just kidding...
one woman around here is enough, I'll do the windows:D :D

works for me Steve, that way Dave has the whole grind.:)
 
Dan,

Does this work or not work? It is kind of hard to get the horse in front of the cart so please advise.

edited to read,,
Dan,: you dovetail your bolsters and leave the bolsters extra long;
then send them and the blank to me.
I can match the scales and Jade to your dovetail angle and shape the scales;
then I send the whole mess to you
so that you can drill your holes in the tang, map them with the DRO for later
holes in the handle materials once the tang is tapered
then send the blade on for the tang tapering, blade grind,
heat treating and clean up, then back to you for the
holes in the handle materials and attachment.
then cut the bolsters to length and semi shape them,

RL
 
Looks like you have a very cool project going. I'll offer my computer controlled cryo processing.

Daniel
 
Originally posted by knightsteel
Looks like you have a very cool project going. I'll offer my computer controlled cryo processing.

Daniel
Click to expand...
Daniel,
good of you to offer and
thanks, but talking to some of the others,
we have Roger doing the heat treat and if it needs to be done he'll be do that part at that time also.
we got a lot of names going on this one now,

but if another one gets going, maybe a rain Check?
Thanks...:)
 
Let me know when you are ready to send. I'll have to have the liners from John before I can begin.

RL
 
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