Who Would Be Interested In Doing A Collaboration Classic Hunter With Me??

[Burchtree]

I'll work on some more "clippy" full flat grind designs so all options are covered. Let me know what you guys are thinking.

 

[ddavelarsen]

Michael I don't know why but seems I like your top drawings the best. I like both knives though, will be interested in seeing what others have to say.

How would all of you feel about taking the grind all the way to the spine? I'm sure it's a personal thing but I tend to think the longer the angles are the better the edge geometry is going to be. This also makes it easier to work in some distal taper...

But they made some seriously cutting sabers ground like that, so who am I to argue? I'll run however our concensus goes. Michael thanks for working so hard on this already.

Dave

 

[rlinger]

In this post, I can't respond to all the new things you guys wrote here today but

Jay's idea sounds good to me. I don't much about where to donate the proceeds. Bruce had a couple nice ideas about where it might be sold.

Michael, I believe if we use the bark ivory including flutes will cut out the bark. My vote is no handle flutes.

Full-V flat grind sounds like a good ticket to me Dave. Drilling needs to be done by the handle man or at least directed by him.

Steve, I see it going to you for hand finish to 1000 or say 1200 grit and then to Bruce. If you do your part too early it will have to be done again later. I can do the buffing if you like. I have three wheels and three grits.

Bruce was asking: who amongst use is a good writer??

Dan, what do you want me to help you with. I'm for any parts of it including contouring the handle, whatever. I've got a mill and some taps of various sizes.

Roger

 

[rlinger]

Hey John,

You da man. I hope I said 'no greater than 1/16th'. 0.04 to 0.06 should be fine and closer to 0.04 would be better. Jade?? I need to shoot some ivory pics up here.

 

[itrade]

Roger,

I can jump in in any stage you'd like, after heat treat. I'm fine with even rough ground to only 120. I'm getting better with the waterstones.

1200 grit? Not S30V I hope

You send it, I'll do it.

BTW we are talking hunter right? 4" by 1"ish blade.

Steve

PS I really like the idea of a donation to a Hunt of a lifetime idea.

 

[rlinger]

Steve,

Give it an 800 grit finish after I HT. It will need to go from me to Dave so Dave can grind the decarb (its his bevel). He can send it to you for the working finish. We outa be able to get you some more work. You, Dave and Bruce are the blade guys. Bruce will also direct the technical aspects concerning over all assembly.

You and Dave work out the blade preporations. When you get it back from handle work give it the final hand shine and unless suggested otherwise, plan on sending it to me for final buffing. From there it goes to Bruce. If Bruce prefers to final buff it will go from you to him.

The final edge needs to be done by the best edge guy amongst us. My current lack of experience, by comparison, excludes me. So who ever of us that is should do the presentation edge.

Steve, I think we're wanting it in damascus. That's what I've been promoting.

Roger

 

[Burchtree]

As far as writing -- that's what I do to pay the bills.

 

[rlinger]

Michael,

If we have that problem and I certainly hope we do (let's count on it), you are the writer. There, that's settled. We're moving now.

I just thought of something I left out. It needs to go from handle work to sheath maker, then to Steve.

 

[Burchtree]

Rlinger -- What do you mean by the handle flutes? Are you talking about the inset "bolster" on one of the designs?

 

[John Andrews]

Roger, jade would be cool! All I would need is measurements/ dimensions. Thickness ok. I sent you email on stone, also. Thanks, Roger! Edited to add, I need measurements in mm for thickness, and I have some cobalt blue jade that should work fine.

 

[rlinger]

Michael, I should have said finger flutes. I chose my term poorly in the beginnig. We have something new too to work into the design. Bruce thinks the maker names best be put on the ricasso, four names per side. He is suggesting a 1 inch X 1 inch ricasso. We need to extend the blade length to about 4 1/2 to 4 5/8 inch, tip to bolster. Daves' going to need to remember about leaving a 1 inch ricasso.

Has a design been narrowed down yet?? I've fallen a little behind because I'm tied up on a customer's computer.

John, are we going to be able to drill jade? Will carbide work that stuff?

Roger

 

[Dan Gray]

Originally posted by Burchtree
Dave, the "sub-hilt" guard could work with the blade, but they would have to be treated as bolsters instead of a fitted guard.

Michael can I ask why?

Roger the ivory work will be fine for me..
I havn't used jade, so I don't know how it cuts or drills.?


I hope I didn't miss anything since the last posts a lot of posts

a list from A to Z would be nice
first operation and who
to the next,, would be easyer to edit I'd think?
something is going to get missing here I'm afraid??

what do you guys think?

 

[Bruce Bump]

You makers are doing a fine job IMHO ironing out the details. This knife is going to be something special. Keep talking it is coming together well. My suggestion is still to make it one of your priority jobs so the fire doesnt go out on the entire project. We can do this one and do it well. Thanks for including me in the mix. Lets have fun.

An updated list will be needed very soon. This list will be updated several times before it is set in stone but Im kinda lost.

 

[Sylvester]

Well ya`ll got it done yet

 

[rlinger]

Dan, I believe I have a flow of progression that should work:

Michael profiles and sends to Dave for grinding (bevel, taper tang) and file work. Steve may well get it from Dave for any of that they decide to work together on. From there to me for HT. Back to Dave to grind off decarb. Steve puts a working finish on the blade and sends it off to you for handle work. Or me if I am to do bolster work and such. At any rate, after handle work its off to Jay for the sheath. Back to Steve for final blade finish and off to Bruce it goes for etching and plating. It may well get bounced about a couple more times than that but that's basically the way I see it progressing. And there is that nasty little detail about drilling the tang. The handle guy(s) need to do that or at least specify how it be done.

Please advise about how all that seems.

Dan, what handle work do you wish me to do or any? I'd like to put a sanding mark or two on it somewhere before its finished. You're the handle man though. I hope Michael got my email today. I sent him pics of the ivory to post. My HTML editor went down so I couldn't post them.

I am now on the trail for the damascus. Bruce has given me a couple excellent leads.

 

[Burchtree]

Roger -- I'm away from my e-mail right now, but I'll put it up first thing in the morning. Here's a couple more sketches of some blades. Let me know which handles and blades you guys like the most and I can start refining the design.

 

[John Andrews]

Roger, carbide, nope. Jade is too hard. Diamond drilling and carborundum grinding is the general rule, if a diamond wheel is not available. The stone can be sanded and buffed for a final polish. The cobalt jade I have for the knife looks pretty good, by the way. You want me to work it, or you want me to send the jade per your specs and you do the final fitting and finish? No problem either way, guys. You can do the final handle profile grinding with the jade in place, is what I suggest. Since it is going to be a bolt together, you can buff,polish the jade seperately after disassembly. Any way you fellas wanna go.

 

[rlinger]

John, We need Dan to weigh in heavy on this Jade thing. I knew it was hard but - well, where can I get a couple diamond bits in say something like (one each) 1/8th and say 3/16th?? Where can I get the belt in 1 or 2 X 48?? And about what kind of bucks am I looking at?? This Jade thing might be over our means. If I could get the belt and the bits; you see I have one of KMG's new edge grinders, I could drill the tang and the jade and I could profile the handle after Dan gets it all together. Then I just send it back to him for shaping. He won't have to grind or drill any jade.

Hey Michael, I like all the new blade drawings except the recurve (the bottom one).

 

[Dan Gray]

Roger
I got your e-Mail OK with me,, Bruce is the man
as far as donating, there are many different things and ways it can be done.

I'm thinking once the guard is in place by screws
the jade can be drilled in 2 places for dowels ( say ) 1/8" for the
alignment of the Jade and the Ivory ( plus the same if going with a sub-hilt)
then you can profile the jade in place with the dowels at your place.

the size of the holes won't matter a lot as long as they are the same fit in the steel as would be in the jade

your dowels would be plus no more than .001 I don't believe you'd want size for size fit that would be a press fit
and may brake the jade? ( one thing, when you drill jade and then the steel will the holes be the same in size.??
they will surely drill differently.)may have to drill the jad first and match the hole after by reaming up..

I'd then make threaded (ID) dowel pins to hold the ivory to the jade.

combo alignment and hold down pins if you will
I hope you all understand this in my bad way with words..
and if you see a better way,, I'm all ears..

 

[NickWheeler]

I really don't think you should donate this knife to an organization like Hunt of a Lifetime. It would be in better interest to SELL the knife, and donate the proceeds to the organization. You will be helping them out a lot more by donating the value of a knife like this thatn the knife itself. If you want to donate a knfie to them, I'd recommend a very simple hunter.

I don't know what your time frame is, and I'm already in way over my head, but I could hammer out some damascus for you guys.

Roger's probably getting tired of asking.



Just a thought.
Nick