Who Would Be Interested In Doing A Collaboration Classic Hunter With Me??

A little earlier today I asked our senior member if he thought Nick is a maker or a material contributer of this knife. I honestly did not know but thought him a maker since he is making a specific steel for a specific knife. I was happy to here back that yes of course he is one of the makers. And very pleased that there is room for another name on the ricasso. Pleased indeed since that means I'm still not bumped off it;) .

Roger
 
Dan, I can really see detail in that second photo of yours. Excellent. I would guess that once the profile is determined you will know whether to choose bolsters or guard. It is your call aside from recommendations from us others. Even with recommendations it is your responsibilty to make final determination on how you prefer it done. Bearing in mind of course that Bruce should be consulted on way of assembly. That can be done through email.

I will be available to you on any part of handle you require me for. With that said, I will add that with the jade work (should that happen) I will have plenty of handle work on my own.

Roger
 
So far there are three different posts of blade/handle sketches. Tomorrow I'll post some more. So far, I get that we're still doing a full grind with a 1-inch ricasso. Dave -- can you do a curved plunge on a flat grind? Anymore input on the blades I've drawn, or what you guys would like would help me. As far as the handle design goes, from what I'm gathering, the blade is going to have bolsters and end-caps, with the Mammoth running full length between the two (am I correct on that one?). Are we set on leaving the handle at that? What's the bolster material? 416, ns, mokume, or some extra pieces of the damascus?

Rlinger -- Michael is my preferred handle. :D
 
Dan,

John can skeletonize the jade liners for us and have the anti-shift pin holes drilled ultrasonically. If we want a thong hole I wonder if we can have enough jade around the hole to keep the jade strong enough in that area. If there is a thong hole how about a pommel so we don't have to have jade liner around that hole?? I invision the scales lined and bolsters or guard and pommel (if there is one) not lined. Are you in a position to advise in any way on this before getting final profile info?? The sooner I can tell John something the better about getting the liner thing going on his end. If you don't like the idea of using jade let me know that too please. There is a chance he can't get jade long enough. With a pommel the chances increase because jade length decreases. Or, do you have a better idea about how to use the jade? Thanks.

RL
 
Steve most excellent post, and I'm still laughing! And thanks! I'm glad these guys are doing the figuring on all this, my head would not be able to contain it all. My jade end of it is kind of generating some confusion, but we will get it worked out. By the way, This big can of worms colab. is going to be a beautiful knife when done, thanks to all you really fine makers and all the rest of you folks involved. Heh Heh Heh, and Roger thought no one would jump in! I'd vote for you guys any day! Roger, great idea, just like your work!
 
Man, I'm even less famous than I thought! :rolleyes:

No worries on stamping my name on it, I don't want you guys to end up with it clustered. I just noticed a desire for steel and no takers on it...and thought I could help out. After all, this forum has been a big part of my advancement in knifemaking over the last few years.

I don't know if you guys have a preference for pattern. I thought a strong twist would be nice, but I should be able to do whatever you want.

I can deliver the steel with a very fine grain structure from thermal cycling in my digitally controlled salt bath, and give Roger a recipe to heat-treat it with his oven.

Thanks :)
Nick
 
Nick I think it's only right that you get hoisted up there with the rest of us... :D

Michael, you asked whether I can do a curved plunge with a flat grind. Well, I know it's possible because I've seen it before but I am nowhere near that good. I usually get a small radius at the top of the plunge but that's it.

Ordinarily I would say sure I'm game but since we're only going to have one piece of steel for this one I'm begging we keep it as simple as possible. I can angle the plunge though if that helps any...

I hate limiting your imagination that way and I apologise up front; I just don't want to drop the ball on this before it ever gets off the ground! :o
 
No problems here -- anything you do will be fantastic. Trust me, I wouldn't want to be in your position to grind the damascus (no pressure, no pressure:D ) I'd be shaking like a leaf and we'd end up with a Kris dagger. :D

Nick, I'd rather your name be on it than mine if it came down to it -- your name is going to bring a lot more money to whoever our charity group gets it than mine!
 
OK a rouph Idea of what I was trying to say..
forum-2.jpg

I know it's a :barf: drawing:)

edited to add the same would hve to be done up front
if a subhilt is added.
 
That looks like a mean physics test exam. :eek:

If you start the taper at the front bolster, you could bypass figuring the angle on everything except the dovetails. The extra "angle" would come out of the back piece. (does that even make sense?). Either way -- that cleared up quite a bit -- it's nice to have a visual, and I am glad you experts are in charge of that handle!
 
From the guy doing the hand sanding, thanks for the straight plunge cuts. I'm in the same boat with Dave. I haven't tried to finish radiused cuts before. Might not be a problem, but this isn't the project to learn on!

Also the bolsters-to-slab lines are going to be straight/crisp. That makes me want a straight angle plunge too. Know what I mean? From the drawings so far, all the vertical lines are straight and the horizonal stuff is curved. Personally, I think a straight plunge would work.

But, I'll keep quiet on the design front. You know the saying: a camel is a horse designed by a committee? Design work should be a small group. And everything looks fantastic. Much more adventurous than I'd ever do. Just glad to be a part of it.

Steve
 
Nick,

I must have worded that poorly. I ment in relation to this particular knife only.

Sorry.

Roger
 
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA,

I was just kidding. Even the most well known knifemakers aren't what I would call famous.

I was just fooling, no worries Roger :D

Nick
 
Originally posted by Burchtree
That looks like a mean physics test exam. :eek:

If you start the taper at the front bolster, you could bypass figuring
the angle on everything except the dovetails. The extra "angle" would come out of the back piece.
Click to expand...

what I have there is the spine view with one peace guard
and sub hilt
if it were bolsters I would agree 90 deg but a one peace
would be over 90 deg's.

we need to know if this knife is going to be all bolsters
(one piece )finger guard
if it's going to have a Sub hilt
and what it will be,,

((at least I don't know at this point did I miss it??))
what does everyone want or who's doing that.:confused:

I like the one piece hilts and the rear bolsters.:( :)
 
Burchtree,

Just a thought, but how about making some aluminum or mild steel blanks that match the real one? We could send those to Dan, Bruce, and ol' hickory.

Then folks could get a feel for the size of things or maybe even rough out some parts. Or give more feedback. If there are any adjustments, this could get passed back to you before Nick's damascus arrives.

FWIW,

Steve
 
Tonight, I will do a more detailed plan of the knife design to full scale with a full-grind Loveless-style blade. I will keep in mind all the handle ideas and we can get this figured. Once we settle on a design, I think we'll be ready to roll.
 
Dan,

I like your handle design. I also see you included the jade. I take that as a 'yes'. I'll get with John on the go ahead. I'm going to tell him 3 1/2 inches long, so if that's too short please advise me soon as practicle.

Steve, If you prefer not to decide final profile please tell me. Its perfectly fine either way. If you prefer not I'll get with Bruce and MIchael. Whichever. I just got the impression you'd prefer not to from your above post.

I like your ideas about some blank replicas. I would have been afraid to ask poor ol'Michael but am glad someone did ;).

Nick, when you decide the steel composition please let me know. Thanks for offering some HT advise on your steel. Will there be a scrap piece or two available for me to experiment with?? It may be a little early for this now but - should I double quench or should I triple quench your steel??

Roger
 
Roger
can the jade be ground with a belt? the dove tail, if we go that way,
it will have to be angled accordantly (or should I be asking John ?)
also are we going with a Sub-hilt? if so a jade liner has to
be made for that too.

if that stuff is that hard the sequence of parts and fitting will
revolve around the jade
to make it a little easier so we don't have to match perfectly
the Ivory and jade can be relieved from the spine and all the way around,,
I don't know if you can see it on this one

gr160m1.JPG


this would look nice on deep etched Damascus I think. it could high light some File work around the tang too.
we realy need a list,, I forgot, is this going to be high carbon
or S/S Damascus..?

did anyone see at the blade show the High conductive material
that guy was selling for fittings ???
copper , Titanium, molumbium , I can't spell the last one
anyway I bought some 6"x 1 3/8" round.
it could be some very interesting fittings..you heat color it then use acid to clean other parts of it up..
like a Mokume but not...if all are interest in that, I'll hunt up the paper work on it..it would make it
more unique for sure...I can donate some of that..
 
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