Who Would Be Interested In Doing A Collaboration Classic Hunter With Me??

Nick you are my hero!

I'm thinking I'll grind the blade to 400 for HT, send to Roger, grind off the scale to 400 and send to Steve. Sound okay? I'll drop everything and do it when I get the blade.

As to the tapered tang and subhilt, I saw Nick's post at Steve Johnson's forum; Steve suggested tapering from behind the subhilt. I think that's a good idea. Anyone else have an opinion? Not that the subhilt is required, this is a hunter after all...

Dave
 
Here's the Ivory that Roger has:
 

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Dave, the subhilt thing was just one of the handles, if it was used, it would just be a small "bump" in the handle that would also be on the blade, so it could be pinned on like everything else. That was just one of the ideas though. If not we can keep it even more simple and have the ivory run the full length and the jade spacers at both ends. Unless we're talking about putting the jade between the mammoth and damascus.

If there is any extra cash needed for parts, materials, etc. -- let me know.
 
Nick, I heard that offer and I say You are the Man! I know your plate is full but we need a sweet little piece of your special reserve stock. I think you are right about the sale instead of the donation. We can sell a knife better than any organization I can think of and for more money with the connections we have in the knife world. There may be collectors following this thread now.

Bruce
 
Pinned? if we have a subhilt wouldn't it be better to have
it as a solid fitted one piece? just wondering ?..

I may have missed something back along and mixed something up
was it spacers or liners in jade ?:confused:

I like that Ivory.:D
 
Nick, Thanks a bunch. Its full tang so Michael will need nine inches for the profile. If there are a couple scrap pieces of the same composition it would be wise for me to experiment with the HT before I cook the real thing.

The steel needs to go to Michael first for profiling.

You're going on the cert. Nick. Thanks.
 
John is suggesting it needs to be pinned AND glassed to the ivory scales. Since it is a take-a-part the owner will eventually drop the jade and bust it if it is un-backed one piece. I need to read his email again but I think he offered to do the pin holes (EDIT: HE IS RECOMMENDING HIDDEN PINS , ALL I HAVE TO ASK HIM TO DO IS HOLE THE LINERS IN A COUPLE SPOTS). I'll look some diamond bit costs up in my MSC book after I get back from work today. John indicated I might be able to profile with my regular belts. Gotta keep it cool or it can break. He also said we can buff it in-house. A jade hilt would be a different story to shape.

Michael, I've been talking liners with John not spacers.
 
Bruce, what size diamond bit(s) do I need to shop for the screws to pass through?? I'll need to locate a 1/4 too if we're to have a thong liner.


In view of the fact that we now have a damascus source I suggest we try to get the design question behind us; at least the profile. Unless someone else has strong enough feelings about the profile he wants be a part lets now leave that decision to two of us. Steve and Bruce. Steve and Bruce can concentrate on final profile according to what Michael draws up. They can work and suggest tweeks to his drawings so far and ones he may yet draw up. OKAY?

In the mean time, I will work with John about making the jade liners work for us.

It looks like we'll get this thing going now.
 
Now we're cooking with gas!!

:D

Nick's damascus, Mammoth Ivory scales, Jade liners -- this is going to be one sweet piece.
 
Roger - I'd be happy to do the certificate. If you like, I could do it in pen, ink and watercolor that could be framed and will look quite a bit more interesting than the standard certificate. If done on heavy watercolor paper, it will also hold signatures better. I have all the supplies I need already, so it's not putting me out any.

Also, don't know if you've thought this far ahead, but I could also do the photography. I'd want a good bunch of photos anyway to do the certificate, so why not volunteer to just do the photos myself?


Let me know - and thanks for keeping in mind on this project. (sorry it took so long to reply)


This looks like it's going to be a real nice project. Just remember that excitement tapers by 50% with every passing week - so get a move on this one fast, and keep it going!

Dan



p.s. the photos would not necessarily be just for the new owner, but for the makers group, and bladeforums as well.
 
Speaking of photos, it would be nice if everyone could take some shots during their end of the process. If anything, it would be a great way for all of us to follow the process the the blade.
 
I agree Michael and they could also lend themselves well to the value of the piece, as far as the owner is concerned. In fact this very thread which is detailing it from conception to finished knife may make a good documentation.
 
Dan K. (we have two Dan's on the team now), I am pleased. I am sure all others are also.

Get in touch with Bruce Bump via email concerning your photography skills. There may be a chance to get this thing published. We already have a writer, Michael.

Roger
 
If there were more folks willing to make videos of them doing the work, it'd get even more interesting!

I'd be happy to do the compiling, but only if the makers agree. There's definitely interest in this kind of thing.

Dan
 
Well All, here is what I have found out so far about drilling the jade (some of you are snickering because you already knew this). A fine young feller at MSC went to work on the phone talking to vendors about availabilty and costs. He wants to continue researching through tomorrow and this is what I have been told so far: The diamond tipped bits will just sit there and squeek. There is a process that plates (brazes) the diamond coating to the bit end. It will do it but the largest available is 2.1mm or about 3/32nd inch. Since they do not stock diamond drill bits (the type we need) there is a minimum purchase of quantity 6 @ 26 bucks each. We can punt or I can ask John if his man can skeletonize the liners. That way all we have to drill is ivory and tang. John's man can put the hidden pin holes in it for us, up to about 1mm or about 1/32nd. It also means we need a pommel if there is to be a thong hole.

Ideas please?? Should we drop the jade?

Roger
 
Don't drop the jade, it would add a lot of depth to the blade, and make it a interesting transition from the tang-to-mammoth. The tapering is going to have to start right at the front of the handle though, or we're going to have some seriously cracked jade. :grumpy:
 
Michael (by the way, do you prefer that or 'Mike'?), I too hope we can stay with jade. I hate the idea of dropping something off this thread that promises so much value. It's a defeat thing with me. However, I feel myself a bit selfish because aside from you I don't know how the rest of us feel about it. If they don't like or want it we should not use it. I do remember I am the youngster here when it comes to experience.

Dave will taper the tang as required.

RL
 
;) ;)

There goes Old Hickory with the hidden pins and Acraglas again. Goodness sakes!

(hehehehe, actually he sold me on the idea some time ago.)

One thing to remember, if you use hidden pins you need to skip any dovetailing. It's a geometry, time-space continuum problem - too hard to explain. You'd need to experience it. My forehead is still flat from smacking it with the palm of my hand.

Steve
 
I guess that's a vote for jade. Or is it?? Poor ol'Dan!!! Just when I thought he might start liking me.
 
I haven't seen the guard addressed yet other than
maybe being bolsters
while on a tapered tang I don't see a problem
with fitting if this is a concern?
a special screw can be made to attach it or have it lock in place
while the scales are in place?

there's no reason this can't be innovative either right?

these are two knives I've made similar
to each other but one is
stick tang and the other is full tang,,
http://www.kynd.com/~graydg/gray104-2.JPG
http://www.kynd.com/~graydg/gray104s.jpg

slight dovetailing on short pins will work...on one end
if bolstered at the rear and a one piece guard up front
of course if the bolsters are screwed or
bolted you can have all the dovetail you want..

do it make any cents...:confused:
 
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