Who Would Be Interested In Doing A Collaboration Classic Hunter With Me??

I am planning to grind the jade this weekend and then dove tail the ivory 'to fit'. I don't think I should be the one to drill the holes in the ivory. I have no experience making take downs and I don't think the collab knife is what I should learn on. I'll send her back to you, Dan, after the jade is finished and the ivory is fitted for drilling. That will put us into the short strokes.

RL
 
OK Roger no problem with that..
are you going to leave some Ivory to taper down to the bolters for a palm swell ?
or are you wanting it fairly level with the bolsters?
I'm sure you know this anyway But no water at all on that ivory.. :)
 
I'll know better when I get there. One thing's for sure, I can't dove tail the scales until I decide final thickness. However, I think it would look much better with maximum bark - therefore no palm swell and take it all off the back side. After I get the jade grinded down I'll look at the scales again. Some surface will have to be removed in final finish.

How's that?

Yes, I sink heat out of scale material with an aluminum plate.

RL
 
OK
I know you're not going to have a lot of bark thickness because of the Jade thickness.
keep in mind the screw heads
will need to be below the surface and enough material left
after the alignment/hold down pin holes are drilled for the screws to bear on..

this whole job is interesting :) it makes me think a little :eek: :)
 
Grinding jade now. About 40% finished. Slow going. Expect to be finished with jade this evening (Monday). Will report back when finished. All prayers welcome.

RL
 
rlinger said:
Grinding jade now. About 40% finished. Slow going. Expect to be finished with jade this evening (Monday). Will report back when finished. All prayers welcome.

RL

prayers sent :D though I think you'll do just fine ;)
 
Prayers appreciated. The hippie vibe I felt. Jade is profiled. All is well. Looks great. Dan's machining is most excellent. Lucky to have such a machinist on our team. Will shoot a picture and post it shortly.

RL
 
Here they are assembled onto the template. At least one bolster appears to have a gap between it and tang. That is only because they are not screwed down.

collab1.jpg


collab2.jpg


collab3.jpg


RL
 
For the first time ever I assembled the knife onto the actual blade. Amazing. I must say I worried but instead all holes line up and the knife assembles tight and like a glove. Dan's machining amazes me. Except for a couple small tweaks to the tang profile and to the jade, the scale relief about the perimeter looks consistant. I need to remove some more jade to make it match the front bolster width just right. It changed a little bit from the template to the real blade but everything looks squared up and tight but without having to force anything into place. Everything lays flat against the tang taper. There are no bows in jade or tang. There is no slack or wobble. I am very pleased. I tried taking several pictures but I can not operate the camera well enough to show the scale relief properly and my photos ended up making it look confusing. So I am not posting any of them.

RL
 
Thanks for posting the pictures Roger. This project is looking so awesome! The joints all look so tight and the colors are beautiful! It is exciting to see a take down drop point! Keep up the good work.
 
Bruce, thanks for dropping in on this latest developement. Get your etching template warmed up and keep your vinager sour. As far as it being a take down we all can thank Dan and YOU for that. I never would have thunk of it on my own.

Dan, how about this: I can drill the ivory for the threaded sleaves and by doing so can dovetail and finish the ivory scales. The sleaves will index the ivory to the jade for finish profiling and contouring, etc.. I do not have a proper counter sink for the screw heads so I would be sending the package back to you for that. You can then send back to me for finals and then I ship out to Steve for blade hand finish, then he sends to Bruce for etching. Bruce sends to Nick for final cutting edge and Nick sends out to sheath making. How's all that? What steps have I forgotten?

(maybe best to go to sheath maker before Nick puts the razor edge on.)

RL
 
At least one bolster appears to have a gap between it and tang.

We are now certain that constipation is not a factor here this morning. You have do idea how much I've been sweating the certain differences between the template and the actual blade... :eek:
 
Dave, everything is flush. No problem. the tang is straight and flat. A wonderful grind. Not too bad on the HT either :o .

RL
 
C@@L :D
OK Roger,on the drilling ,,
one thing orrrr two rrr:confused: :D

Please keep in mind I'm not under minding your ability, I'll mention these things just so we all are on the same page.
((because the scales will be thin,,,))
the center threaded sleeves ((for the interest of the viewers) the 2 long threaded alignment pins for jade and ivory))

I intend/ed to have them both the same length, meaning...
the holes in the ivory will be at deferent depths , this is so
the buyer won't worry about getting the two pins in the wrong places if/when reassembling it.
((the front and read bolster pins are at an obvious different length for the new owner.))

don't be afraid to trim them Roger,
{ (important) equally from both ends,, the center of them was not tapped through
because of their length, they were tapped from both ends to the center.}

keeping in mind, where the tang is thicker at the front the depth of the alignment hole/s
is the main concern ,
one of two
just deep enough to hold well but not so deep to interfere with
the length of screw head and hold down material under the screw.
keeping in mind again the rear pin will be setting farther into the Ivory (with the pins at the same length)
because of the tang taper there will be less hold down material under the rear screws.
. is this making any sense? :confused:
I'm sure you will keep the holes 90deg to the center line of the blade not to the taper. JUUUUST Checking :)
 
Dan,

What I ment was I could drill the sleeve diameter all the way through the ivory scales. This will allow the ivory to be attached to the jade for profiling and contouring the ivory scales. I would then send it all back to you for counter sinking the screw heads and shortening any sleeves that need shortening.

How's that sound?

RL
 
rlinger said:
Dan,

What I ment was I could drill the sleeve diameter all the way through the ivory scales. This will allow the ivory to be attached to the jade for profiling and contouring the ivory scales. I would then send it all back to you for counter sinking the screw heads and shortening any sleeves that need shortening.

How's that sound?

RL

:eek: :eek: :eek: stop :eek:
you don't mean 1/8" through the Ivory do you???
 
Well in that case I'll just go as far as I can without drilling anything and then send it back to you for drilling. You can then send back to me for finishing up the scales.

How's that?

RL
 
Roger
I'm not sure if we're on the same page
#1 if you drill a 1/8" hole all the way through the Ivory
the head of the screws will just have wind to hold on to..am I misunderstanding you?

you said.
The sleeves will index the ivory to the jade for finish profiling and contouring, etc.. I do not have a proper counter sink for the screw heads

I agree but I'm not sure where your going with

you said.
"I could drill the sleeve diameter all the way through the ivory scales"

see #1


sleeve diameter ( alignment hold down pins) are 1/8"

I can call you sometime tomorow between 8:30 and 14:00
**********
I'm hiting the rack,, got to get up at 5:00 and be gone to get back at 8:30,
 
That's okay Dan. I can grind the ivory to proper thickness and dove tail without drilling any holes. I'd rather you do the drilling anyway.

RL
 
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