Who's Interested in 9" Steel Disc's???

jll346

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
May 29, 2006
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Please note I do not have these for sale here. This post is strictly to get an idea of how many would be interested if this item is to be made. I know several have wanted one including myself. If this does become a go it will be in the proper selling forum. Thanks

I just reciently inquired about having some 9" Steel sanding Disc's made. If made I can assure they would be only the highest quality. I know I have wanted one for some time and have seen others looking. If you would be interested, please add a yes here. Thanks

-Jim
 
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Made with a 2 -4 degree taper center to edge? And what size of a threaded shaft ? Frank

Frank, I gotta assume we are talking about a flat, 5/8" keyed arbor hole here because it is the most popular. Although, I would love a 3/4" arbor, I don't think this type of run is going to get custom fits. I hope they are made, and I hope Nathan makes them, but I would be happy with anyone making a sweet steel disc.

EA
 
As long as this stays on the subject of who would be interested in 9" discs and a discussion of the makeup of such a run, I am OK with it being here. When it gets to asking specifics on cost and making orders, email or PM Jim, please.

When Jim gets ready to take down orders, he might be best to put a thread in The Exchange - Knifemaking Supplies.
 
I personally want a taper disc of 1* which is more than enough. I have tried one once with just a .5 degree taper and it was very good. I would think 5/8 bore would be standard as these are really used with a smaller motor but specifics would be determined by maker.
 
Yes, as Stacy said, it would be great to see this listed with specs in the for sale forum. Thanks Frank.
 
I guess I should pop my head in here...

Jim was asking me if I'd considered making any of these. I take requests from folks here from time to time and if it sounds like something folks want I'll do a run. This disk project sounds like a good idea, but most of the stuff I make are things that I use myself and am familiar with. This disk is different because I don't use a disk. I'm unsure what I should make here. So I have a couple questions:

When you say 9" disk, do you mean 9" on the nose or some dimension smaller than that so the paper hangs over the edge slightly and can be trimmed up?

Should the front edge be left sharp or chamfered?

What is the optimal thickness?

What size bore should I make?

Should it be two pieces and welded together or machined from a solid piece of steel? Machining from solid isn't a problem, but it would about double the cost.

Is the bore keyed?

Should I get them balanced?

Would alloy steel (4130) be better than mild steel (1018)?

Having never seriously used one of these I'm not sure what I should make.
 
I guess I should pop my head in here...

Jim was asking me if I'd considered making any of these. I take requests from folks here from time to time and if it sounds like something folks want I'll do a run. This disk project sounds like a good idea, but most of the stuff I make are things that I use myself and am familiar with. This disk is different because I don't use a disk. I'm unsure what I should make here. So I have a couple questions:

When you say 9" disk, do you mean 9" on the nose or some dimension smaller than that so the paper hangs over the edge slightly and can be trimmed up?

Should the front edge be left sharp or chamfered?

What is the optimal thickness?

What size bore should I make?

Should it be two pieces and welded together or machined from a solid piece of steel? Machining from solid isn't a problem, but it would about double the cost.

Is the bore keyed?

Should I get them balanced?

Would alloy steel (4130) be better than mild steel (1018)?

Having never seriously used one of these I'm not sure what I should make.

Answers from my perspective and referencing the Beaumont aluminum disc

8.875 leaves room to trim a 9 inch paper

I'd leave the edge sharp or with a radius just small enough to break the burr edge like 1/32
It's easy to file and or paper a larger radius on the disc as it runs if you need it.

I think 3/8" finished size on the plate thickness is plenty

A 30 degree angle on the BACK face at the edge helps get into small areas if the edge is thinned out like that.

Welded and machined works if you can true up all surfaces true to the center bore and balanced
That takes some order of operations and work holding thought.
Would you have to use a mandrel ? I'd love to see how you do it if you do.

a 56C motor is the most common motor I see. NEMA specs give a 5/8" shaft, 3/16 key and a setscrew on the key.

I don't see an advantage of 4130 over 1018
 
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I'll answer as best i can. Others may have different ideas.

I would make them 8.75" across the face.
I would like the plate to be 3/8" thick
A welded hub should be fine.
The shaft should be 5/8" and keyed
I assume the faces will be turned round, then flat, and then beveled, so balancing may not be necessary
The edge should be 90 degrees
4130 would be good
 
Welded and machined works if you can true up all surfaces true to the center bore and balanced
That takes some order of operations and work holding thought.
Would you have to use a mandrel ? I'd love to see how you do it if you do.

I don't see an advantage of 4130 over 1018

Thanks for the feedback.

Order of operations is everything.

You could turn it mounted on a mandrel, and if that mandrel was cut in that setup without being removed from the spindle you'd probably get good results, though I might get chatter cutting a 9" disk mounted on a 5/8" mandrel.

I'd most likely start with a machined disk with a pocket cut into the back and a machined solid shaft that would press into that pocket and be TIG welded. The welded assembly could be mounted in a chuck from the outside of the disk so the OD of the shaft could be turned accurately relative to the disk. You might dust a little off the back face at this point.

Then the disk could be held from the OD of the shaft and both the bore of the shaft and the face of the disk would be cut in the same setup to assure precision between the working surface of the disk and the bore that mounts it to the motor shaft. When you can, you order your operations like this so the important surfaces are all cut in the same setup to eliminate run out caused by imprecision between setups.

Advantages to chromoly steel is that it is harder to dent and ding than 1018. Also, 1018 and A36 are gummy steels that don't finish well when I turn them. 4130 is weldable and finishes well in addition to being more durable. It costs a little more, but in the grand scheme it might be worth it.

As far as balancing is concerned, parts that are nearly geometrically perfect can still have variations that mess up their balance. I look at things like machine tool spindles that are precision ground to very high levels of precision that still require balancing to eliminate vibration. So I wonder if something like this should be precision balanced?
 
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