Who's Interested in 9" Steel Disc's???

Nathan I had one disk that was out of balance but was only slightly noticeable at high rpms but more noticeable when running slow. This in the end it caused the motor bearings to fail prematurely at less then two year. I had four steel disks form the same supplier and only this one had this problem. What was difference in this one I don't know. These where made from mild steel(plenty though) and from what I can tell where made in the same method as you described. The disk had .5* and it was more then enough to keep your stock for touching the other side of the disk. Price was about $90 a few years ago if that helps.
One thing I would recommend is a light press fit for the shaft.

Brett
 
Thanks everyone for their input. If anyone else can give Nathan some helpful info it would be appreciated.
 
Measured my disc last night.It's 8-15/16 You got to be right on with the paper.I think 8-7/8" would be perfect.

Stan
 
I would assume that a small bevel like one degree does not result in a paper crease since its almost flat?
 
Correct..... It just prevents the opposite side of the disc from grabbing the blade tip.
 
I got a tapered disc from one of the popular supply houses and the hole in it was not drilled straight and the disc has a bad wobble to it. Talked to the people and was told they had a bad batch that was drilled wrong , to send it back and they would send me a new one..... the next one they sent was just as bad. After spending money on return shipping twice I give up on them , and put a disc out of mind. until now
 
Spalted said:
I got a tapered disc from one of the popular supply houses and the hole in it was not drilled straight and the disc has a bad wobble to it. Talked to the people and was told they had a bad batch that was drilled wrong , to send it back and they would send me a new one..... the next one they sent was just as bad. After spending money on return shipping twice I give up on them , and put a disc out of mind. until now
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That is exactly why I contacted Nathan. I know his work is high quality.
 
HA HA HA ... "drilled wrong"... good lord...

I'm never interested in making something as inexpensively as possible, I honestly don't care if it costs more than some folks want to pay, I aim to build quality. This is a life philosophy that has kept a roof over my family's head and my backlog long.

It is going to be a while before I can fit these in, but when I do I'll try and "drill my holes right". :D
 
PT Doc said:
Its just as easy to drill the hole in the right place the first time.
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Actually it isn't. It is one thing to weld on a stub and drill a hole in it and something else to precision single point bore a hole and turn the face in the same setup. It is more effort. But these aren't farming implements that we're talking about.
 
:DWHAT....you mean if i get one I can't use it to make knives and disc the garden.:D

Stan
 
PT Doc said:
Its just as easy to drill the hole in the right place the first time.
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The secret is that it's almost impossible to "drill" a straight hole.

You drill a hole first because it's fast, but that hole lets you get a boring bar in there to get it straight and to size.
 
I'm interested. I have the Nielsen disc which I like a lot. I have plates that have the 1 degree bevel and also plates that have the relieved back edge at about 30 for getting into tight spaces with slipjoints. A steel disc that had both of these features in one would be appealing. Other than that, I agree with the basics of what others have said. 5/8 bore, keyed is ideal, type of steel may or may not matter?

Nathan, I have lurked on many of your custom tool build threads. The work you do is amazing, and it is SUCH a treat to get a window into the process.
 
I know we can't talk numbers or sales here, but as an owner of one of Nathan's products , I would pay double the going rate for a disc made by Nathan. I still think the sweet spot is a just under 9" wide, 3/8" thick plate, 5/8" bore, keyed and flat. Balanced seems like a necessity for steel, but my current aluminum disc weighs so little (Craftsman), I doubt it's balanced. If it has to be angled - one degree or less. If a weld is in order, I would love a 3/4" bore as an option. Any 9" steel disc by Nathan, I'll take it.

EA
 
Erik, I Have the same thought on willing to pay for a quality product. I have read where people received a disc out of wack and that is not an option. Even if it is free, if it doesn't work well it is useless. Again, this is why I contacted Nathan. I have seen his work and have read a lot of his posts. I knew if he had time and was willing to do this for me and others it would be the highest quality!

-Jim
 
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