Why all the Opinel rave?

You're welcome!

I've tried oils, waxes, varnish's, and this is the closest I've come to getting the waterproof Opinel. It will still get a little stiff on opening, but it's not bad. Every few months I re-new the Vaseline treatment and it keeps the Opy working in the kitchen. I have made it very clear tot he 'ol lady, that it is NOT to be put in the dishwasher!:eek:

I don't think anything could help an Opinel if that were to happen.
:D

No problem.

I just use gun oil on mine mostly (or a drop of sewing machine oil).

I took a #8 thin handled Coligans (SP) swimming all day, in the Yakima river. It was in the zip pocket of my life vest (we were floating down a little stretch of the river again and again in just our vest, my older boy and I).

Ive had them get tight, but even that one opened up fine. I left it wet most of the day. But I had treated it with oil in the joint regularly.


I have not done the Vaseline yet. Or done any kind of soak.

I did hold two of them over a flaming chimney of charcoal and burned them black! The turned out looking pretty good, if I do say so my self. I am still doing a bit of sanding on them now. But the look and feel are great. I should lacquer them but I am too lazy.
 
They are nice, basic tough design, i love my #10, it is in my bug out box
I have a 8 or 6, dunno, it seems not quite so good, the lock travels a bit far and it seems loose
 
Just out of curiosity, how would beeswax go for waterproofing the wood? Anyone tried this?

Beeswax when melted in, would certainly waterproof the wood. However, the pivot joint would be 'tacky', just due to the nature of beeswax.
 
Carl,

I wonder if you could shed some more light on the Opinels that you and Danny each broke.

I should begin by noting that I agree with this point completely.

I had taken out a small dogwood tree in the back yard, and was cutting up the limbs to bundle. They limbs were about thumb thick to a little thicker. I had cut up most of them, and was on the home stretch, when I felt a crack, and the whole blade and pivot assembly was very wobbly. The wood had split right where the step down was turned on the lather to fit the bolster and locking ring. The wood had cracked right at the step like it was a stress point.

I was thinking about this over the weekend as I was helping my wife move and plant perennials which meant that I was using a standard wood handle spade and a 4' pry bar. Our neck of the woods sits on top of glacial till, which translates into rocks. 6" rocks. 10" rocks. And one nice 18"x12" shovel buster that promptly went to the rock wall.

Anyway, I was standing there prying the heck out of a rock in vain with my spade and pressing the limits of what the grain would take and was thinking about your observation on the stress point. The Opinel in my pocket (which I used to trim back branches) uses the same exact construction as my spade and the steel garden rake and the leaf rake. A metal socket on the end of a stick and held in place with a pin.

As an engineer, it's obvious that the end of the socket creates a fulcrum and a stress point and it's also obvious that when wood is used as a structural element, there is the problem of inconsistencies in grain patterns, which can conspire to make a handle of a shovel or a knife weaker than normal. The question becomes, is the design fundamentally poor or can it be made strong enough to handle rough usage by simply making it bigger? A spade handle is stronger than a garden rake handle. A garden rake handle is stronger than a light leaf rake handle.

When I was a bike mechanic, we didn't have the internet to give some indication on failure rates. Enter "Mavic anodized MA40 rim failure" into a search engine, and you'll get lots of discussion of hairline cracks and rim breakage. Enter "opinel handle broken" and the only stories I can find are about you and Danny. I've read stories about Opinel handles getting broken from being crushed like being kicked out a hand by a horse or run over by a tractor. But I don't find any other stories of handles breaking. Maybe my search-fu is weak but I'm suspecting that the experiences that you and Danny had are rare. So, I'm trying to get a handle on whether that is the case, if you both had the bad luck of getting knives with bad grain or if you guys are just exceptionally hard on knives.

Here's what you wrote in 2012 about you and Danny, a few drinks, a vice and testing to see if the Opinel could be relied upon in an emergency.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/981003-An-Opinel-saves-the-day


A bud, Danny, expressed some doubts that a little knife this light could be worth anything beyond a picnic knife. Sound familiar? He looked at it and said it would break soon as you leaned on it. I stood up for the little slicer, and we made a bet. The bet was, he couldn't break the knife by hand on anything he needed to cut. I have to admit at this point in the story that we'd had a few beers. So Danny goes down the basement and comes up with some thick heavy manilla rope. He goes and saws away on an angle and the Opinel slices right through the rope. He does it again, same result. Then he gets a hardwood dowel and cuts into the dowel at a 45 degree angle and is twisting the blade. The knife goes through the dowel. Cuts it off clean with very little effort. It went through so fast, Danny almost takes a slice of his thigh. By this time, he's holding the knife out and looking at it, with what I can guess is the beginning of respect. I should say here, that Danny is 6' 4" and about 250 to 270. Big strong guy and works out. So far, he couldn't break the Opinel.

By now, we're both curious, about in a real emergent how much can you lean on an Opinel. Danny takes out his wallet and hands me a five and says "Let's see."

We put the blade of the Opinel halfway in a vise and clamp it down. Danny puts on a heavy work glove and starts to bend the knife over. The blade is flexing, bending, and Danny is surprised at how much pressure he has to push down with. Finally , at past 45 degrees, there's a snap, and the blade breaks. But it breaks off clean even with the vise jaws, leaving half the blade still usable and foldable. The action of the pivot was unaffected, and the joint still had 100% integrity, with the locking ring still working. It took a 6 foot 4 inch 250 pound guy and a vise on a heavy workbench clamping the blade, to break a little number 6 Opinel. The next day, Danny went out and bought a number 8 Opinel. Now a bit over thirty years later, Danny is still a fan of Opinel knives with a selection that he uses for edc and fishing.


In our current thread, you wrote
I can't remember what Danny did, it was over 25 years ago. But his came right apart at the same point, but broke clean off. His blade with the bolster and locking ring were a whole separate piece than the handle that was still in his hand, but nothing attached to it. It had sheared right off even with the shoulder of the wood where it was turned down for the bolster.

I've done a lot of work with a scout/SAK doing the same thing, and neve chad a problem. I've done wood processing and gardening like Mr. Van had bought us with the notching and then breaking it off. SK's I've used for trimming limbs and cutting down saplings have been recruits, tinkers, and my old Wenger SI. My old Buck 301 stockman had also done lots of work like that with no problem. Danny went back to using his old Vic pioneer. No problemo with that either. I like Opinel's, but have since regulated them to picnic and light duty knives. I just don't think the wood construction around the pivot of the Opinel is as sturdy as a conventional knife like a SAK or sodbuster.

I'm all about evolution on my relationship to knives. I've been all over the map, as you know. But I find this confusing...

Did Danny give up on Opinels due to them being too flimsy after the incident with his wife's injury or did he continue to use them? I would think given his size, your report that he was using a #7 and the urgency of the situation that he put spade type power on a leaf rake sized handle. I wouldn't take Danny's story about breaking a #7 as giving any indication on the durability of the larger #9s and #10s, would you? That would be like predicting the durability of a spade handle based on the performance of a leaf rake.

Regarding the #8 that you broke, last year in this thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1101245-Can-you-bust-an-Opinel
you wrote
I've only seen one Opinel break, and that was an unusual thing. We were cutting down some saplings to make a stretcher for my friend Danny's wife, who had broken an ankle slipping on a icy rock face on a early morning hike. Danny was a bit agitated, and was trying to hurry as he cut down the sapling he was working on. To give the Opinel credit, Danny is 6 foot four inches, and over 250 pounds. A big guy that works out. The Opinel handle broke off just where the wood is stepped down to a smaller diameter to receive the inner bolster. May have been a fault of the wood, or just it was never designed to be leaned on by a very large very powerful guy who was listening to his wife moan in pain.

I had one develop a crack right in the same area, running bak from the pivot end. But I had been using that knife as a beater. I've never had a blade break on me.

Is this referring to the same knife or did you crack one and entirely bust another? If they are the same knife, you mentioned in 2013 thread that you had been using the knife as a "beater". Can you say more on what sort of use constitutes it being used as a "beater" and any chance that you somehow damaged the knife before it breaking when cutting up the wood bundles?

Again, all of this to try to get a handle on what your stories might indicate for other Opinels.

I readily admit I am lucky with respect to Opinels. With my XL sized hands, even a #8 is frustratingly small in my hands. And a #10 is just too big for my pocket. So, I'm sort of stuck with the #9 which fits my hand perfectly and, it would seem, is stronger than a #8 and #7 in the same way that a spade is stronger than a garden rake and leaf rake.

Sorry for the length of the post and heavy old quoting. Trying to get a better bead on things. Thanks.
 
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I recently bought a #8 Carbone at MEC. I'm not sure why, but I spend more time looking at it and playing with it than many other much more engineered and detailed knives I own. It's the simplistic functionality, I suppose.
 
I recently bought a #8 Carbone at MEC. I'm not sure why, but I spend more time looking at it and playing with it than many other much more engineered and detailed knives I own. It's the simplistic functionality, I suppose.

Exactly. They're very neat design. Me and my gf had friends over, we settled down and were all talking in the living room when all of a sudden I noticed I had been opening and closing the opinel one handed for the last five minutes, engaging the lockring in both open and closed positions every time. I'm not a "flipper", I don't sit around watching action movies while flipping open my latest tactical folder or anything. Nobody had even noticed, though :P

I also get so many compliments on them. Pulled it out at a hot chicken party (southern style) because the plastic knife wasn't cutting it and people were wondering how I managed to have a fixed blade kitchen knife in my pocket. Once you show them the mechanism they are all about it. Coworkers who have only ever had gas station knives see it, think it's dumb, then use it to cut something (or their own fingers more often than not) and they are in awe. Then they think it costs a bunch and when I tell them it cost less than their gas station knife they have to have one.

Like said before, knives are extremely simple to get right, yet we live in an age where most people get them very wrong. A knife can be made using extremely low tech, simple, CHEAP methods and be amazing, or they can aim for looks, for impulse buys, and to appeal to "modern" knife users who don't have the time or money spent finding actually good "modern" knives. Sure, if you are used to customs with amazing steels and constructions and great grinds, and an understanding of sharpening and decent set of tools to do so, an Opinel seems like nothing. But for the average person who gets a benchmade or a hinderer because of the hype, only to be supplied something with a forty five degree edge angle, thick shoulders, and a steel which SUCKS to try and thin down using their tools, and an Opinel will seem heaven sent.

This is where "being cheap" and "being a good knife" are not mutually exclusive. These are cheap, simple, low tech knives made by people who have understood cutlery for over a hundred years. Made for people who actually needed a functional tool in a life without decadence. A tool that is easy to sharpen, easy to maintain both the primary and secondary grinds (if you decide to put a secondary grind on it ;) ) That is the allure. If you want to spend an hour on diamond stones to make your modern knife cut almost as well as an opinel that you sharpened on a $2 hardware store stone, that's your perogative (and often mine, because I love some modern steel, modern construction knives). Or if you want to spend 30x the amount on a mid tech or custom with an actually nice edge, or anything between, that's fine and great.

But to try and insist an Opinel is on the same level as a "gas station knife" is being extremely dishonest with yourself, especially when one should know better (and has made very different statements about simple, thin knives cutting well in the past ).
 
Latest test knives I got in today, should be a fun experiment.... Haven't had one in awhile...


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All this back and forth on Opies led me to splurge a litttle and get a #8 inox in bubinga. Excellent edge and beautiful looks and finish — although I do wish they'd left the blade with the usual faint grind marks, as I'm not fond of mirror-polished blades.

Still and all, it's a beauty.
 
As I said in a previous post, I just picked up two as well. I wonder if moles from Opinel are putting up some of these posts. ;) This thread is making them a few bucks.
 
Well the ones I have are ave .009" behind the edge and .067" spine thickness #8's....

That's before reprofiling and sharpening, and they are dull.....

$13 knives so I didn't expect them to be sharp.
 
Well the ones I have are ave .009" behind the edge and .067" spine thickness #8's....

That's before reprofiling and sharpening, and they are dull.....

$13 knives so I didn't expect them to be sharp.

They do often come needing edge work.

I look forward to your thoughts.

I think the Inox should do better for edge retention, as mine seems to stay sharp longer than the Carbon.
 
They do often come needing edge work.

I look forward to your thoughts.

I think the Inox should do better for edge retention, as mine seems to stay sharp longer than the Carbon.

Just reprofiled and sharpened them, the INOX seemed to be harder RC wise.... So you might be right...
 
Well the ones I have are ave .009" behind the edge and .067" spine thickness #8's....

That's before reprofiling and sharpening, and they are dull.....

$13 knives so I didn't expect them to be sharp.
Those are a LOT thinner than my Number 7 behind the edge. Interesting. I'm anxious to see how they do for you, I doubt it will take long to find out.
 
Okay, Jim...I'm waiting patiently for your test results. I have a lot of women in my family that will be very happy if your results are positive.
Don
 
Those are a LOT thinner than my Number 7 behind the edge. Interesting. I'm anxious to see how they do for you, I doubt it will take long to find out.

I have to measure again since I reprofiled them, shouldn't be that much different I think.

Well knowing what the steels are I don't expect it to take too long, but they do what they do in the end.

Okay, Jim...I'm waiting patiently for your test results. I have a lot of women in my family that will be very happy if your results are positive.
Don

I am going to do a full review on both at the same time, won't be too long.
 
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