Hi all, I was planning to buy a Fallkniven knife but as I read several reviews, people have been complaining about the blade chipping out. There are many other steels out there that will not chip as easily even when dropping it on stones. Why does this happen? Is the edge too hard and will it improve overtime? I read from somewhere that the brittle part of the edge can be broke off with use. Otherwise I am actually leaning towards Bark River knives instead.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
Why do Fallkniven knives chip so easily?
- Thread starter MattBlade
- Start date
I haven't had any chipping issues. I like a hard edge, & make an effort to treat it with respect. Such edges have better abrasion resistance.
If you prefer a tougher edge, with less wear resistance, that simply reflects your preference. Horses for courses.
I own knives from both companies. They are well built & reliable.
BRKT's 3V is hard to beat.
If you prefer a tougher edge, with less wear resistance, that simply reflects your preference. Horses for courses.
I own knives from both companies. They are well built & reliable.
BRKT's 3V is hard to beat.
I love the Fallkniven knives but I really cannot afford for it to chip out on me. Do you ever drop them on hard surfaces by accident? What knife are you using?
Mostly a TK4 in 3G. I have used it hard for a small knife, but I can't remember dropping it on a hard surface. It is so light, it probably would survive well.
If reviewers are saying Fk's chip when dropped onto rocks, I would believe it. Many knives would.
Dropping knives onto rocks is one of those lottery things, anything may happen. None of it good.
If you really expect to drop knives onto rocks, I recommend a cheaper, lighter knife (weight matters). Mora, Helle, Marttini are good examples.
Or maybe a knife with a no questions warranty, like Esee.
If reviewers are saying Fk's chip when dropped onto rocks, I would believe it. Many knives would.
Dropping knives onto rocks is one of those lottery things, anything may happen. None of it good.
If you really expect to drop knives onto rocks, I recommend a cheaper, lighter knife (weight matters). Mora, Helle, Marttini are good examples.
Or maybe a knife with a no questions warranty, like Esee.
You can chip just about any knife if you hit the edge just right on something hard or use it to pry or twist with the edge. I've done it to an original Spyderco Manix in S30V and I remember the moment when I was chopping a limb with a brand new Swamp Rat and whacked the blade just right on a concrete block. I've never heard Fallkniven has any unique problem in this area.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2005
- Messages
- 19,385
Haven't had this problem with Fallkniven knives. If you drop your knives on hard surfaces or abuse them, there can be a price to pay. Use your knife for knife chores and you won't generally have a problem. If you dropped your cell phone on a hard surface... would you be surprised if it broke?
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2006
- Messages
- 1,086
I think it is the kinds of use they get. Also, I have read remarked that after a sharpen this stops heing a problem ... theory being that maybe there is some residual brittleness from the heat treat ... but I don't know about that.
I have a bunch of Fallknivens. THe only one ever chipped was an F1 Micarta (someone else did that) and it sharpened right out.
THe F1 is a relatively fine edged blade and I seem to remember that they are getting more so. First one I had in 2006 felt very obtuse ... which is prety much why I sold it. Last one I got, the hollow section midway down seemed more pronounced and the edge finer. Sold that too ... but that was because of the bike
In the end it is VG10 (I am assuming) and whilst it will roll a bit with a bump, and is more forgiving and serviceable than other expensive stainless steels if you are really battening and twisting you should look into O1 or A2 .... have you looked at the Enzo Trapper?
O! And personally I think the H1 is the better knife
I have a bunch of Fallknivens. THe only one ever chipped was an F1 Micarta (someone else did that) and it sharpened right out.
THe F1 is a relatively fine edged blade and I seem to remember that they are getting more so. First one I had in 2006 felt very obtuse ... which is prety much why I sold it. Last one I got, the hollow section midway down seemed more pronounced and the edge finer. Sold that too ... but that was because of the bike
In the end it is VG10 (I am assuming) and whilst it will roll a bit with a bump, and is more forgiving and serviceable than other expensive stainless steels if you are really battening and twisting you should look into O1 or A2 .... have you looked at the Enzo Trapper?
O! And personally I think the H1 is the better knife
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2005
- Messages
- 2,892
I think that pretty much any sharp knife dropped edge first against a rock with sufficient force will chip or dent in some way. If people complain enough, I'm sure some maker will come up with a "rock proof" edge (not sure if it will cut well, though). 
Anyway, I own three Fallknivens, an U2, a WM1 and an F1. The U2 is a light use folder, so I haven't done anything outrageous with it. The other two, however, are amongst my most used knives especially while travelling (they can be replaced at a local shop, unlike other brands). The WM1 was my exclusive EDC for months while working in archaeological digs in Spain and Turkey, the blade is scratched to hell but the edge is fine. Fairly heavy use everyday. My F1 has been on mountains and forests all over South America, I almost destroyed a leather sheath in Peru (I got it really wet, then it rubbed against stones, I took a couple of rough tumbles).
Anyway, I'm not saying there aren't reports of Fallknivens chipping, but remember that on any internet board you'll read more about issues with knives than from users that are mostly satisfied with a product. I wouldn't start a thread saying that 99,9% on the Buck products I've purchased over the years work just fine, but I have complained about the linerlock on my Alpha Hunter failing (luckily I had a fixed blade on that trip as well!).
Anyway, I own three Fallknivens, an U2, a WM1 and an F1. The U2 is a light use folder, so I haven't done anything outrageous with it. The other two, however, are amongst my most used knives especially while travelling (they can be replaced at a local shop, unlike other brands). The WM1 was my exclusive EDC for months while working in archaeological digs in Spain and Turkey, the blade is scratched to hell but the edge is fine. Fairly heavy use everyday. My F1 has been on mountains and forests all over South America, I almost destroyed a leather sheath in Peru (I got it really wet, then it rubbed against stones, I took a couple of rough tumbles).
Anyway, I'm not saying there aren't reports of Fallknivens chipping, but remember that on any internet board you'll read more about issues with knives than from users that are mostly satisfied with a product. I wouldn't start a thread saying that 99,9% on the Buck products I've purchased over the years work just fine, but I have complained about the linerlock on my Alpha Hunter failing (luckily I had a fixed blade on that trip as well!).
I'd say it was the high hardness that causes them to chip. You can't have a super hard edge w/o running a risk of chips.
If you use knives hard and outdoors, the edge will come in contact with a rock, if only by accidental dropping. Years of camping will prove that to you. That's why many steels with a hardness just beneath 60 are ideal for outdoor use. Recently I've dropped a custom in 440C and a Benchmade in ATS34, both with RC of about a little less than 60. No chipping, but the custom had a bent tip and the Benchmade a bent edge. It's also a lot easier to restore an edge in the field with a rock or a pocket stone when the Rockwell is not above 60.
If you use knives hard and outdoors, the edge will come in contact with a rock, if only by accidental dropping. Years of camping will prove that to you. That's why many steels with a hardness just beneath 60 are ideal for outdoor use. Recently I've dropped a custom in 440C and a Benchmade in ATS34, both with RC of about a little less than 60. No chipping, but the custom had a bent tip and the Benchmade a bent edge. It's also a lot easier to restore an edge in the field with a rock or a pocket stone when the Rockwell is not above 60.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2011
- Messages
- 1,774
3 fallies over the years and no "major" problems with chipping... my F1 has chipped on occasion a little, but nothing i wouldn't expect for the abuse i put it through and its still my favorite factory knife i own and my EDC for work always.
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2007
- Messages
- 1,686
Fällkniven, Bark River, Mora and Opinel, just to name a few.
These brands are very sharp out of the box and the factory edges aren't always perfect.
That means they often need to be sharpened a few times, to the standards of the user.
In short: Factory edges sucks!
Not always, but when using high quality knives like Bark River and Fällkniven, You are supposed to also learn how to sharpen them.
Setting the edge Yourself, cures any issue You will have with a factory edge!
I spoke to Peter, the owner of Fällkniven over the phone today.
He said that for about 30 000 made F1's, there has been around 30 that needed the warranty.
We agreed on two things.
1. If Your new knife need to be sent in under warranty, send it to the dealer You got it from.
It's the dealers responsibility to help you out.
The dealer will contact Fällkniven HQ.
2. Using the Fällkniven DC3 or DC4 to sharpen the knife a few ( maybe 4 or 5) times when new, will settle the issues with new edges.
After using Fällkniven actively on a daily basis at my work, in the outdoors and at home, I know that new Fällkniven knives need less work than most other brands.
Like Bark River they have very sharp edges out of the box.
Learning how to sharpen these edges, will give You great knives for the rest of Your life!
BTW Get that Bark River too, I like both these brands!:thumbup:
Regards
Mikael
It's my opinion that all this talk of problems with Fallkniven (and Bark River) knives being prone to chipping is bit overblown.
Great knives with convex geometry that are designed to cut.
Most come hair popping out of the box.
Most perform flawlessly for their intended purpose.
To get that convex edge, they're all hand sharpened,
...so there is bound to be some variation of the final edge.
If you do get one that's doesn't work right for you,
...both companies will take care of you.
In actuality, problems are few and far between.
Big Mike
Great knives with convex geometry that are designed to cut.
Most come hair popping out of the box.
Most perform flawlessly for their intended purpose.
To get that convex edge, they're all hand sharpened,
...so there is bound to be some variation of the final edge.
If you do get one that's doesn't work right for you,
...both companies will take care of you.
In actuality, problems are few and far between.
Big Mike
^this, or you can just leave the knife in a safe...
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2013
- Messages
- 249
Man I've used the hell out of my F1 and never seen it chip. My F1 is my go to field knife and like I said I've used it to do some of the roughest jobs many people would never put their knives through.