Why I believe the 110 is so misunderstood .

pjsjr said:
Flush it out with hot soapy(Dawn is what I use) water and blow it out with compressed air. Might be pocket lint or some other debris.
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I think that has played into it previously. I'd seen it happen when I was using the knife in the yard one day, soon after I bought it. It was a bit dusty, and the pivot started getting kind of sticky. I'd done just as you suggest, washing it out thoroughly and even adding a bit of mineral oil to the pivot. But even then, it was still having issues. Things didn't noticeably change for the better until I thinned the ricasso by sanding it. Even now, if I lightly pinch the pivot end between my thumb and forefinger, it still sticks a bit when closing the blade. If I don't pinch it, then there currently seems to be little or no issue. But I am curious to see, when I put it back into my pocket, if the lint will create an issue again.
 
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Hickory n steel said:
Could it have just needed some oil?
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I have oiled it previously, after thoroughly cleaning it. By itself, I'm not sure if that helped or not. I was concerned any oil might collect more lint or dirt and aggravate the problem. I think keeping the pivot as clean as possible has a greater positive effect. And I'm also gently twisting the blade laterally in the pivot a tiny bit, to see if the action will loosen up enough to prevent the sort of binding or friction that was causing most of the trouble.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
I have oiled it previously, after thoroughly cleaning it. By itself, I'm not sure if that helped or not. I was concerned any oil might collect more lint or dirt and aggravate the problem. I think keeping the pivot as clean as possible has a greater positive effect.
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This is a question I have with my 110LT - do knives with the blade pivoting between nylon or plastic handles require oiling? At least one lawn mower I've owned had plastic wheels and the instructions specifically said "DO NOT OIL THE WHEELS! It will attract dust and accelerate wear." The plastic was considered a good enough bearing by itself. (I assume it would also depend upon what kind of plastic.) You also have the steel blade on steel pivot to consider. Pardon my ignorance, but I've never seen this question addressed before.

Edit: I may have answered my own question but I'd still like to hear what others think.
 
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Headwinds said:
This is a question I have with my 110LT - do knives with the blade pivoting between nylon or plastic handles require oiling? At least one lawn mower I've owned had plastic wheels and the instructions specifically said "DO NOT OIL THE WHEELS! It will attract dust and accelerate wear." The plastic was considered a good enough bearing by itself. (I assume it would also depend upon what kind of plastic.) You also have the steel blade on steel pivot to consider. Pardon my ignorance, but I've never seen this question addressed before.

Edit: I may have answered my own question but I'd still like to hear what others think.
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Same thoughts here.

Most any knife I've had with linerless plastic / nylon / zytel / FRN handles has required little or no supplemental lubrication, as these materials are sometimes described as 'self-lubricating' due the the low friction qualities of the material. I tried mineral oil on this particular knife just to see if it would make a difference, either for better or worse. I'm still generally inclined NOT to oil knives built like this, otherwise. They ordinarily shouldn't need it.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Same thoughts here.

Most any knife I've had with linerless plastic / nylon / zytel / FRN handles has required little or no supplemental lubrication, as these materials are sometimes described as 'self-lubricating' due the the low friction qualities of the material. I tried mineral oil on this particular knife just to see if it would make a difference, either for better or worse. I'm still generally inclined NOT to oil knives built like this, otherwise. They ordinarily shouldn't need it.
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Thanks for the quick reply! My first thought was no oil, but then I got to wondering if maybe it should have some. (I tend to overthink these things.)
 
Hickory n steel said:
I don't know, but mine gets a tiny drop of mineral oil on both sides regardless.
It lives in the polyester sheath though.
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I'm convinced the weak closing pull on mine is at the root of my issues. If the closing pull were just a bit more robust, I don't think it would matter if the pivot were oiled or not, or a little bit dirty or not with lint, etc. I haven't had an issue like this with any other knife that had decent closing pull. So, everything I'm trying now is an attempt at compensating for that weak pull.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
I'm convinced the weak closing pull on mine is at the root of my issues. If the closing pull were just a bit more robust, I don't think it would matter if the pivot were oiled or not, or a little bit dirty or not with lint, etc. I haven't had an issue like this with any other knife that had decent closing pull. So, everything I'm trying now is an attempt at compensating for that weak pull.
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There's definitely something wrong there.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
I have a 110LT and it's very nearly a perfect solution in this circumstance. But unfortunately, mine has very weak closing pull and sometimes the tip of the blade is exposed proud of the handle. I discovered that issue when I took it out of my pocket one day and the tip of the blade pierced through and sliced open my pocket liner. Could've very easily cut into my upper thigh near my groin, which rattled me. For that reason alone, I don't trust it for pocket carry anymore. Kind of ironic, as it would've been perfect for it.
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I have an LT that didn't like to close all the way because the handle was a little pinched close to the pivot and rubbed against the tang. I used an ignition point file to remove a few thousands of plastic inside the knife and the blade swings closed without a problem.
 
Hickory n steel said:
Complaints about the thickness, heft , & weight are common with the 110 and always have been.
I think the biggest reason is because the 110 is widely misunderstood.
The 110 & 112 folds so people falsely think of them as pocket knives, and they view the belt sheath carry as a flaw or something not realizing that they are folding belt knives specifically intended to be carried in the sheath on your belt.

My assumption is that many people wanted a full handed locking pocket knife and bought a 110 because they were prevalent , not knowing there were Mercator K55's and Opinels that might have been more of what they had in mind.
The 110 wouldn't have sold as much, but would have been bought more by people who understood it and wanted it for what it is.
Today a lot of people still hate the 110 as an antiquated or heavy pocket knife not understanding that it's just a belt knife that folds.
The modernized 110's may suggest something a little different, but I bet most buyers were existing 110 fans.

I firmly believe that the 110 is perfect when properly understood and anybody who favors a sizable locking folder that hates on the 110 is just wrong and misunderstands it.
There are people who just dislike it, but most people are comparing apples to oranges.
I kind of grew to dislike the 110 when I fell in love with the little 305, until I finally realized that it wasn't a pocket knife.
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You make good points, but I don't think the 110 is really misunderstood. People make choices that they know are not the best, but then rationalize why it's okay. It's a little like people who claim the carry a firearm all the time, but when they actually due it's one of those microscopic .22LR revolvers and not a gun they manipulate and shoot effectively under stress in a suitable defensive caliber. Lot of excuses, but very few of them are compelling.

The Buck 110 is a cutting tool superior to most other folders because of the hollow grind, edge geometry, and the shape of the frame that becomes the handle. If those things aren't important to someone who is more interested in "fidget factor" or sub 3oz, weight, then nothing is going to change their mind . . . until they have to do a significant amount of cutting. A mini Bugout is easy in the pocket and will open a box or two, but I'd rather have a Buck 110 to field dress, and clean a bag limit of squirrels and then carve a pot holder and some feather sticks.

And anyone that is not favorably impressed by the classic lines and the feel of a 110 or 112 in their hands is big poopoo doodie haid who should be forced to have only Benchmades that left the factory just barely sharp enough to cut room temperature butter.
 
Zornhau said:
I have an LT that didn't like to close all the way because the handle was a little pinched close to the pivot and rubbed against the tang. I used an ignition point file to remove a few thousands of plastic inside the knife and the blade swings closed without a problem.
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Thanks for confirming what I've suspected. I also noticed that pinching effect when closing the blade. Since my issue first revealed itself, I did some sanding of the ricasso portion of the blade to give it a little more space to swing fully closed. I do think it made at least some improvement, and I might do just a little more going forward, if I continue to notice that pinching effect near the pivot.
 
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Obsessed with Edges said:
I replied earlier, about how my Buck 110LT had been erratic about sometimes not keeping the blade fully closed and how that made me distrust it for pocket carry. In remarking about that, it got me thinking about revisiting it. I dug it out of storage and have been fiddling with it for the last 30 minutes or so by repeatedly pulling the blade partially open and releasing it. Each & every time so far, it has been snapping closed fully and staying closed. Maybe the little bit of thinning of the ricasso I did previously has actually helped with that a bit. Or maybe the many months it spent in 'Time-out' has finally made it behave. ;)

Maybe it's time to drop it into the pocket again. Time will tell... 🤞
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I'd send it to Buck. There is a main artery running down around the groin that if punctured or clipped could bleed you out in a minute.
 
RPZIP said:
I'd send it to Buck. There is a main artery running down around the groin that if punctured or clipped could bleed you out in a minute.
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I had initially considered sending it in. But I think I'm getting the problem sorted out, by thinning the ricasso portion of the blade. It's working better now.

And I had immediately thought of the femoral artery in the upper thigh, when it sliced through my pocket liner.
 
Interesting reading and lots of points of view. From my POV it doesn’t matter to me if someone misunderstands the design and use of a knife at all. What matters is that I do and that it is a useful tool for me. With hundreds of brands and thousands of variations over the centuries not everyone will find each one useful for them. If I don’t have a use for a pattern I don’t need to talk negatively about them, I simply don’t buy or use them. I like many Buck Knives and own quite a few, but there are many I don’t care about and just ignore. As for the Buck 110, I probably have a good two dozen in several variations and find them useful. OH
 
Old Hunter said:
Interesting reading and lots of points of view. From my POV it doesn’t matter to me if someone misunderstands the design and use of a knife at all. What matters is that I do and that it is a useful tool for me. With hundreds of brands and thousands of variations over the centuries not everyone will find each one useful for them. If I don’t have a use for a pattern I don’t need to talk negatively about them, I simply don’t buy or use them. I like many Buck Knives and own quite a few, but there are many I don’t care about and just ignore. As for the Buck 110, I probably have a good two dozen in several variations and find them useful. OH
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You are absolutely right.
The only time it does matter a bit is when people put the 110 down and it turns new knife lovers away.
 
I have noticed that many of the newer and younger people who have an interest in knives seem to be more interested in slimmer, lighter and more modern features such as automatic opening, pocket clips and easy carry. In most cases they are more likely to be in an urban setting and don’t do much outdoor activities and that makes sense.

I like some of the modern knives and carry them around the house and uptown but when I’m outdoors camping, hunting and fishing I prefer a more robust knife with plenty of handle and blade. The 110 fits that senecio very well. I think a lot depends on what a person is doing, their lifestyle and activities along with personal preferences.

The older generations are probably more likely to be used to the classics and more simplistic designs without the added frills. I know when I was growing up and taking on the world I lived in we had fewer choices and not much fancy stuff. I used a lot of hand me down tools and knives from my dad and grandfather and things were made for durability and hard work. I still have some of them. Not only that but as I get older I need a handle with plenty grip area and a slim handle can be uncomfortable using in hard work and extended time use and my hands get fatigue and fingers cramp up. Again the 110 is robust enough to use for extended time and hard use.
 
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