You are welcome MW, so i take it you will be buying one?
If the answer is yes maybe you can do one of your reviews/write-ups after you get it/use it for a while?
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Why no love for the HEST ?
- Thread starter pitdog
- Start date
If the answer is yes maybe you can do one of your reviews/write-ups after you get it/use it for a while?
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2008
- Messages
- 9,491
You called someone's design and knife a "POS" with out ever even holding it, let along using it. That person who designed it is a member of this forum, and even if he wasn't you should still show a tad bit of respect. Then you assume 1095 with a coating on it is poor quality, despite coming from a company in which the majority of us have come to respect.
Then you complain about Shotgunner making it personal??? You need to rethink yourself..
Then you complain about Shotgunner making it personal??? You need to rethink yourself..
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2005
- Messages
- 7,809
Oh, didn't realize it was un moderator like to point out that the majority of the post that I read from you are rude, condesending and confrontational.
Reality checks can be somewhat shocking at times I suppose.
Please, by all means, lodge a complaint about the horrid, personal attack. I should be ashamed of myself.
I'm sure all your previous transgressions will be overlooked.
Reality checks can be somewhat shocking at times I suppose.
Please, by all means, lodge a complaint about the horrid, personal attack. I should be ashamed of myself.
I'm sure all your previous transgressions will be overlooked.
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2002
- Messages
- 837
I just got the HEST a few days ago. I really like the pry bar and wire breaker features, as well as the over all blade shape. However, there is something about the handle (thickness, maybe?) that my hand just does not like. I find the RC-3 to feel much more natural in my hand.
It's a shame, because it really is a great, well thought out knife.
It's a shame, because it really is a great, well thought out knife.
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2006
- Messages
- 4,012
You just can't help lowering the tone can you.
Infraction #1
I got zero points and a friendly request to take down an image I posted in an image thread in Whine & Cheese. The guy was very friendly and left the image in question up 'till I came back to this forum some days later, noticed his message, and I took it down.
Infraction #2
Again for an image posted in the pictures thread in Whine & Cheese. The image in question was from a piece of course work performed at the University of California Berkeley.
Obviously I was as suited to the point of Whine & Cheese as you are here. I have not delivered a post there since.
Seems a feeble ammunition even for you. I'm sure you're going to maintain this personal line thing you've got going on, and now I fully anticipate being banned. Ho hum. I'm more than willing to take that on if it discloses the way you operate. Attacking the design of a knife is not the same thing as attacking a person. Just what part of that are you too dumb to understand. There's the reality check you wanted. Be shocked and get over yourself already.
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2009
- Messages
- 538
There seems to be some confusion between an urban survival or EDC tool and a wilderness survival tool...
As an urban survival tool, I'm sure it has it's merits. As an EDC even, sure. RAT HEST supporters, this is not intended to be an inflammatory statement. I am reserving my own personal thoughts on the knife and keeping them out of this post.
This is from years of extended bushcraft practice, living, and teaching.
And I am searching the subtleties of what makes an extended wilderness tool useful for the wilderness. Let me see here.
In bushcraft, notching and shave work, in fact most woodcraft, will have the plunge line as close as possible to the ricasso and handle. Observe all the modern bushcraft blades and traditional wood-working scandi's of the past few hundred years.
Hunting blades with finger choils, or Busse's for example, or general purpose blades, like the HEST for example, with the angled, wide notch between blade and integrated guard, although not impossible to use for shaving, will be restricting and even more over with extended bushcraft use. Having the grind go almost all the way is the preference for anyone who has whittled, made fuzz sticks and carving tools in the bush. Extended use is the big word here.
The fact of ease of sharpening the full blade length with the gap is not an issue for most of us that strop or hone blades; in fact it works for the better without one and does not dig into or cut the strop.
In bushcraft, a straight, uninhibited spine is used for scraping tinder, sanding, scaling fish, or fleshing a hide. The bottle cap opener, although useful for those who cannot open a bottle without an opener in an urban situation and quickly need that sip, is not on the top of most bushcraft lists as this is also a skill that can be performed with a stick found in the bush, or the side of the knife, or pommel of a knife, or another bottle for that matter. Most bushcrafters carry cantinas as well.
Bottles are weight to carry in or out when say camping.
Bushcraft also implies game work. The sharp finger grip, with the index riding along the spine of the blade to the tip, would the hand or finger press against the cap opener and be discomforting? Would pinch grip also have the bottle opener dig into the hand?
The deep belly of the blade would be useful for game work, and make a good slicer and good for bowl hollowing, but lack of enough tip in a small blade for carving, whittling, drilling or odd narrow angles in wood, say the nook of a branch collar to be used as a Y or a spear-launching spur, or thin fish work. Smaller blades in bushcraft tend to benefit from less blade width, unless going for a particular style of bushcrafter like a Nessie. But this is more of a general purpose camp knife bushcrafter. As we can see, even the realm of bushcraft has a variety of blades for a variety of bushcraft tasks as the subject is so encompassing.
Along with this and other use is the fact of the coating. A coated blade will inhibit cutting performance or driving ability through wood. I also use my blades to eat with. I would prefer an uncoated blade for this purpose naturally. No worries, it can be stripped and then patina'd to help prevent rust.
The deep integrated guard, although useful more in urban EDC is inhibiting in bushcraft. Especially a narrow metal one. The placement of the hands in a side-choke at the ricasso area is a well used grip. Downward pressure on the blade as one works, say a bow stave, would have the metal guard dig into the forefinger. The more handle material for extended use, the better. Especially in cold northern wildernesses. Most bushcrafters have minimal guard for the fact or versatile handle, woodwork use, side-grip, choke variations. And cutting oneself without a guard for the experienced bushcrafter, woodcrafter or experienced knife user is not a worry at all.
As for the pommel/pry-bar, hands like to move about the handle of a knife, that is why for bushcraft or woodworking blades, an open handle with soft contours will be preferred. Any handle that limits a variety of grips from open grips to tight, choke, side grip, side-choke, etc. will not be preferred for extended use in the bush.
As well, a pry-bar may be needed to force entry or exit in an urban setting, but in the bush, a pry-bar is less needed than say a baton stick to help with splitting wood.
Also, hands vary. A large hand must be accommodated as well as a medium.
There are more than a few blades that fit the entire hand of the maker or designer but were tight or at best, 3-finger knives for others. For extended bushcraft use, one can instantly see a pinky, as it moves with the hands as it works, not enjoying the pry-bar proximity and angle.
With most wilderness blades, the simpler the better, and actually the more versatile long-term. This explains the success of the RAT RC models over say, most of the Tops creations, the Tracker for example. The BHK Bushcrafter or Scandi for other examples of versatile simplicity. The BRKT Kephart, the Fallkniven H1, the BSNM-01 or Brian Andrews models I have seen, for example.
Urban survival differs from wilderness survival. Although there may be similar themes, and even similar contexts, it is impossible to apply one to the whole...
Again, not to insult the designer, RAT or its users and followers, these are simply observations.
I see the merits of the blade for an urban setting. And I see the merits of having one in the glove box of the car.
The best way to truly see its use in a wilderness setting would be to maybe start a passaround in the WS&S forums to see if those of us avid bushcrafters truly see merit in the design....:thumbup:
As an urban survival tool, I'm sure it has it's merits. As an EDC even, sure. RAT HEST supporters, this is not intended to be an inflammatory statement. I am reserving my own personal thoughts on the knife and keeping them out of this post.
This is from years of extended bushcraft practice, living, and teaching.
And I am searching the subtleties of what makes an extended wilderness tool useful for the wilderness. Let me see here.
In bushcraft, notching and shave work, in fact most woodcraft, will have the plunge line as close as possible to the ricasso and handle. Observe all the modern bushcraft blades and traditional wood-working scandi's of the past few hundred years.
Hunting blades with finger choils, or Busse's for example, or general purpose blades, like the HEST for example, with the angled, wide notch between blade and integrated guard, although not impossible to use for shaving, will be restricting and even more over with extended bushcraft use. Having the grind go almost all the way is the preference for anyone who has whittled, made fuzz sticks and carving tools in the bush. Extended use is the big word here.
The fact of ease of sharpening the full blade length with the gap is not an issue for most of us that strop or hone blades; in fact it works for the better without one and does not dig into or cut the strop.
In bushcraft, a straight, uninhibited spine is used for scraping tinder, sanding, scaling fish, or fleshing a hide. The bottle cap opener, although useful for those who cannot open a bottle without an opener in an urban situation and quickly need that sip, is not on the top of most bushcraft lists as this is also a skill that can be performed with a stick found in the bush, or the side of the knife, or pommel of a knife, or another bottle for that matter. Most bushcrafters carry cantinas as well.
Bottles are weight to carry in or out when say camping.
Bushcraft also implies game work. The sharp finger grip, with the index riding along the spine of the blade to the tip, would the hand or finger press against the cap opener and be discomforting? Would pinch grip also have the bottle opener dig into the hand?
The deep belly of the blade would be useful for game work, and make a good slicer and good for bowl hollowing, but lack of enough tip in a small blade for carving, whittling, drilling or odd narrow angles in wood, say the nook of a branch collar to be used as a Y or a spear-launching spur, or thin fish work. Smaller blades in bushcraft tend to benefit from less blade width, unless going for a particular style of bushcrafter like a Nessie. But this is more of a general purpose camp knife bushcrafter. As we can see, even the realm of bushcraft has a variety of blades for a variety of bushcraft tasks as the subject is so encompassing.
Along with this and other use is the fact of the coating. A coated blade will inhibit cutting performance or driving ability through wood. I also use my blades to eat with. I would prefer an uncoated blade for this purpose naturally. No worries, it can be stripped and then patina'd to help prevent rust.
The deep integrated guard, although useful more in urban EDC is inhibiting in bushcraft. Especially a narrow metal one. The placement of the hands in a side-choke at the ricasso area is a well used grip. Downward pressure on the blade as one works, say a bow stave, would have the metal guard dig into the forefinger. The more handle material for extended use, the better. Especially in cold northern wildernesses. Most bushcrafters have minimal guard for the fact or versatile handle, woodwork use, side-grip, choke variations. And cutting oneself without a guard for the experienced bushcrafter, woodcrafter or experienced knife user is not a worry at all.
As for the pommel/pry-bar, hands like to move about the handle of a knife, that is why for bushcraft or woodworking blades, an open handle with soft contours will be preferred. Any handle that limits a variety of grips from open grips to tight, choke, side grip, side-choke, etc. will not be preferred for extended use in the bush.
As well, a pry-bar may be needed to force entry or exit in an urban setting, but in the bush, a pry-bar is less needed than say a baton stick to help with splitting wood.
Also, hands vary. A large hand must be accommodated as well as a medium.
There are more than a few blades that fit the entire hand of the maker or designer but were tight or at best, 3-finger knives for others. For extended bushcraft use, one can instantly see a pinky, as it moves with the hands as it works, not enjoying the pry-bar proximity and angle.
With most wilderness blades, the simpler the better, and actually the more versatile long-term. This explains the success of the RAT RC models over say, most of the Tops creations, the Tracker for example. The BHK Bushcrafter or Scandi for other examples of versatile simplicity. The BRKT Kephart, the Fallkniven H1, the BSNM-01 or Brian Andrews models I have seen, for example.
Urban survival differs from wilderness survival. Although there may be similar themes, and even similar contexts, it is impossible to apply one to the whole...
Again, not to insult the designer, RAT or its users and followers, these are simply observations.
I see the merits of the blade for an urban setting. And I see the merits of having one in the glove box of the car.
The best way to truly see its use in a wilderness setting would be to maybe start a passaround in the WS&S forums to see if those of us avid bushcrafters truly see merit in the design....:thumbup:
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2005
- Messages
- 7,809
I'm not going to sit here and argue with you, frankly, your not worth it.
If you can't see the reality of the current situation, I feel sorry for you.
Get a clue.
If you can't see the reality of the current situation, I feel sorry for you.
Get a clue.
- Joined
- May 25, 2007
- Messages
- 15,113
I believe a Pass around has already taken place in the RAT forum
But for me I see the HEST as more of an Urban setting then in the wilderness. Can be useful in both but geared more towards an Urban setting in my eyes . I truely enjoy the HEST but again not the 1st knife I would grab going Camping either. RYP Designed a Knife for his application for what that Man has seen thru the many years. Just like many knives there is a certain type of person for evey make & model.
But for me I see the HEST as more of an Urban setting then in the wilderness. Can be useful in both but geared more towards an Urban setting in my eyes . I truely enjoy the HEST but again not the 1st knife I would grab going Camping either. RYP Designed a Knife for his application for what that Man has seen thru the many years. Just like many knives there is a certain type of person for evey make & model.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2009
- Messages
- 4,573
:thumbup:
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2005
- Messages
- 2,938
I have a HEST and i love it. Its my all the time urban edc knife, i no longer carry a folder (except sometimes my emerson karambit) its that perfect a knife to me. The handle is very comfortable to me in my medium- maybe on the small end of large sized hands.
One of my hobbies is craft brewed beer so i open alot of bottles of beer and thus i enjoy the hests bottle opener as a back-up to the bottle openers in my reef sandals
I dont see how this generates any controversy at all, like god forbid a knife have a utility feature on it, no person that travels in the woods will ever have to do something as mundane as open a bottle of beer :jerkit:
The prybar has not poked me even once in all the time ive carried it ive found numerous little pry jobs to use it for. again another little uitlity feature that i find quite ingenius and enjoyable but that other people seem to consider a gimmick
The blade is a great size and is big enough for almost any job i run into. Its not the best slicer i own but i dont really care about that. the thickness makes it robust and reliable. I dont know what id ever do if i hadnt come to blade forums and learned that only scandis can cut wood, i see this attitude alot the forums and i dont understand it people used to use rock knives anything with a relativley sharp edge is good enough for the task if its all you have on hand and the hest far exceeds a sharpened rock
Baldtaco: 1095 dipped in paint. lmao thats great im glad that you have saved me from my inevitable doom from using knives that are made of 1095 steel. :jerkit:
One of my hobbies is craft brewed beer so i open alot of bottles of beer and thus i enjoy the hests bottle opener as a back-up to the bottle openers in my reef sandals
I dont see how this generates any controversy at all, like god forbid a knife have a utility feature on it, no person that travels in the woods will ever have to do something as mundane as open a bottle of beer :jerkit:The prybar has not poked me even once in all the time ive carried it ive found numerous little pry jobs to use it for. again another little uitlity feature that i find quite ingenius and enjoyable but that other people seem to consider a gimmick
The blade is a great size and is big enough for almost any job i run into. Its not the best slicer i own but i dont really care about that. the thickness makes it robust and reliable. I dont know what id ever do if i hadnt come to blade forums and learned that only scandis can cut wood, i see this attitude alot the forums and i dont understand it people used to use rock knives anything with a relativley sharp edge is good enough for the task if its all you have on hand and the hest far exceeds a sharpened rock
Baldtaco: 1095 dipped in paint. lmao thats great im glad that you have saved me from my inevitable doom from using knives that are made of 1095 steel. :jerkit:
Rupestris
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2006
- Messages
- 29,176
I don't have much time around here on BF, but geez louise, it's so easy for people to get all roused up because of a piece of steel. You don't like it? PLEASE say so and tell us why. You didn't like his reason for not liking it? If you can elaborate on the reason in a constructive form, please enlighten. No need to start bashing the knife, the maker, the designer or whomever actually likes the thing. State your facts and maybe some will agree with you but maybe some will not, and that's life. No need to offend or get offended.
Sheesh, some of these discussions remind me of my IRC days back in the 90's
No kidding.... actually this 'discussion' reminds me more of a forum on the world of warcraft game.
Opinions are just that , opinions.
Baldtaco did not state a single fact , only his opinions , which he is allowed to do in a free society.
We are also allowed to either ignore or pay heed to his opinions and that's all I will say on that.
I do not own one but who knows , when Uncle Sam pays me back the money I lent him , maybe I will purchase one.
As for Mr. Robert Young Pelton , I agree , he really has been there and done that more than most on any forum I currently post on and for that I respect his opinion far more than that of someone who has not.
Functional looking little knife !
Tostig
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2009
- Messages
- 146
That is just too funny. I couldn't have said it better. BTW, the mountains in NH are beautiful. I am not a HEST owner yet but will be shortly. I have a sweet spot for the edges of acceptability.
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2008
- Messages
- 7,283
I am not going to lie - it isn't my favorite knife, not even favorite RAT. However, I do like the blade for what it was meant for. It wasn't meant for a lot of things, however it can DO a lot of things. If you do not like the things it CAN do, and only want a knife, the RC 3 will fit you better. However, it has additions that make it a great knife, at least in my own opinion.
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2005
- Messages
- 7,809
Actually, he personally attacked the designer if the knife, his credentals and the quality of the company that makes the blade.
He then personally attacked me and "the way I operate", whatever that means.
Were all intitled to our opinions but we need to keep them civil.
How about anybody here who has a HEST post some pics so we can go "ooooh and ahhhh" thusly (hopefully) distracting the more cantankerous/argumentative types from their current conflicts.
We need some in-hand HEST action shots, heck even a HEST stuck-in-a-tree shot would be welcome,lol!
That might bring the thread back to actual discussing of the actual knife.
I for one am interested in the knife and not so much interesting in the bickering.
If i want tension i can go visit my relatives, lol.
We need some in-hand HEST action shots, heck even a HEST stuck-in-a-tree shot would be welcome,lol!
That might bring the thread back to actual discussing of the actual knife.
I for one am interested in the knife and not so much interesting in the bickering.
If i want tension i can go visit my relatives, lol.